Question about 1993 Honda Prelude

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Wheel alignment is out due to subframe being bent/warped from most likely an unreported wreck

I just found out today that the vehicle I purchased and had believed to have looked over thoroughly enough has what I believe is a major problem. The front subframe on the driver's side is bent/warped due to most likely an unreported wreck. This bend or warp causes (if I'm not mistaken) the tow to be off by 6.8 degrees. I found this out when i took it to have a wheel alignment at a local shop that I highly trust and has come highly recommend from many people. They suggested then that I take it to a body shop and let them give it a go. My only problem now is that I worry that the shop will total it due to the year of the vehicle. Can anyone tell me anything different or new? I will most likely be taking my vehicle to the shop either late tomorrow or Wednesday morning, so an answer or solution would be most appreciated.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My 1995 Honda Accord V-6 speedometer sticks at 19 mph.

The speedometer works from a steel sheathed cable that is connected to the drive shat at the rear of the gearbox. The internal braided steel cable rotates inside the sheath connecting the drive shaft to the back of the speedometer. The cable sheath connects to the gearbox casing and the internal cable has a lug that engages with a rotating shaft in the gearbox. The cable connects in a similar way to the back of the speedometer. Your problem is likely to be associated with the cable. It can have become disconnected at either end or, more likely, the internal cable has broken.

Its easy to check out. Find where the cable come through the firewall between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment then follow it down to where it connects to the gearbox. Disconnect it and see if it is broken. Alternatively you can find where it connects to the back of the speedometer and disconnect it there. If it is broken the internal cable will come out of the sheath.

Replacing the cable is easy enough but requires some scrambling around under the dash.

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

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SOURCE: Two Broken Wheel Studs on Front Driver's Side

It would be best to have the work carried out at a garage of your choice. A garage you have used before and trust to do a good job. Depending how long it takes to free the studs, will depend on the final price.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak wont pass emmissions

Tune up will not stop oil leak. Find out where leak is and fix it. I never heard of oil leak being part of an inspection? Let me guess...You're in California?

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

LT1Rob
  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2004 (bought

I recommend taking your vehicle to a shop (any shop) that use a Hunter tire balancer. These machines can detect all variables that affect ride quality by not only spinning the rim, but it uses a roller to inspect the tire itself for its "road force". They can also measure the rim while on the machine for run-out to detect for a bent rim. There can be times when a tire can be mounted to the wheel in a postion that promotes more vibration, but the hunter machines can check and show the correct location to minimize the feel to the driver. Here is a picture of the kind of balancer you want your vehicle serviced at. Please let me know how things work out.7e27679.jpg

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

keithheavili
  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Honda Accord Rotor removal.

I've been working on Honda's like this for years, including my own, and there are two ways that you can get the screw out. The easiest/best way to do it is with an impact driver and the biggest phillips screwdriver bit you can find (sorry can't remember the number, I think #4 but not sure). Once you have the bit you are good to go and your impact wrench will do the work for you. If you don't have an impact wrench the other way I've learned to do it is by taking a small (12" section) of rebar and a mini sledge hammer and put the rebar directly on the screw (make sure it is straight) and hit it with the hammer. Make sure you hit the rebar and not the car or yourself. You are probably going to have to hit this really hard to break it loose (you can try penetrating oil, not WD-40, along with this method). After you beat the screws for a while, you are going to need the biggest phillps screwdrive you can find, again not sure what size, and you will be able to get this out. If you have started to strip the screws you need to be very careful and if you aren't sure you can get them out without stripping them I might take it to a mechanic and have them loosen them up for you. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks for using FixYa!

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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Ive got a towed in right rear wheel on a 04 pt cruiser rear quarto wreck where more than likley should i start looking to get this wheel straight axle spindle watts link or complete rear end change


Unibody should be checked @ a body shop that has measuring system to check length, width, height. If thats good replace rear suspension then get vehicle aligned. It will be safe and won't wear out your tires prematurely.

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My car was wrecked and now my front passenger tire is bent inwards


It appears your car may have a damaged or out of alignment tie-rod.

You will need to have your alignment checked and adjusted at a wheel and Tire center or mechanical workshop that conducts wheel alignments, this isn't a very costly job, my last alignment costs was around 56 dollars (they are performed when you buy a new set of tires USUALLY), but your experience may vary depending on if the rod is damaged and needs to be replaced.

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Take it to your mechanic and ask them to check your tie rods and then an alignment.

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2000 Malibu has been a wreck, and the front passenger wheel was wrecked. It is still making a noise after I had it repaired. I Can't find out where the scrapping noise is coming from.


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All steering and suspension components replaced, including rack and pinion unit, with new r&p unit measured to be an exact match of the old one and the vehicle has never been wrecked ... yet when i...


you may have to reattach the rack or possibly the subframe may need loosened and moved slightly-any time the subframe is removed or lowered it effects the alignment and may make it difficult to get the alignment into specs

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Have a 2002 chev malibu v6 front wheel drive, have a howling noise and a vibration when approaching speeds of 100 kph (60 mph), I have replaced both front bearings, rebalanced tires, rotated as well, still...


If it is a tire related howl you are getting as well as the vibration through the steering wheel once you hit about 60 mph there is a number of things you need to do.

1. If you have not had a wheel alignment carried out on the vehicle in the last 6 months then have it done at a reputable suspension specialist (not a tyre dealer). Check your front tires for wear pattern in any event as uneven wear on the tyre is a sure sign of poor alignment. Bad alignment can also contribute to vibration problems. I will guarantee you that when you get the alignment checked it will be out. I am not sure if the rear alignment is adjustable on your model but if it is you will in fact need a 4 wheel alignment. (REFER point 7 also)

2. When the alignment and other necessary front end work is done check to see if the problems persists..

3. I assume your vehicle has the steel rims fitted with the plastic wheel cover. Remove the covers on the front wheels and check for the vibration. If it disappears then the out of balance condition is caused by the covers. (This would not explain the tyre howl though).

4. Remove both front wheels (clean them) and check for damage to the rims on both sides including outside scuffing. (Check tyres also.)
If the steel rim is bent or warped it will not run true and you will get vibration and the tyres will tend to be noisy on the road. It is not always easy to identify a warped steel rim from a visual check. Spinning the wheel on a wheel balance machine should normally show this up though.
If you have alloy wheels fitted these tend to crack and break rather than bend or warp.

5. Out of balance wheels.

It is possible for a wheel to be so badly manufactured that no amount of balancing on a tyre balance machine will fix it. This is a particular problem with cheap alloy wheels but even good quality wheel manufacturers will occasionally let a bad alloy wheel slip past their quality control .

6. Tyres.
If you buy budget tyres you are generally buying poor performance and potentially poorly constructed tyres. Tyres can be produced with inbuilt heavy spots that will make them impossible to properly balance. You will forever have a balance problem (and hence vibration) with such tyres. A good manufacturer will not allow such tyres to slip through quality control. Others are much less fussy. It is always a bad decision to purchase tyres in the lower price ranges.
In your case it is quite possible that if your wheels are ok the tyres are badly constructed and it is not possible to balance them properly. (This would not explain the tyre howl though).

7. Given the age of your vehicle you should have the front suspension and steering components inspected. It is possible that wear in critical components could be the source of the problem. When you take the car to the suspension specialist for the wheel alignment you need to have the front end fully checked over first and any problem areas attended to.

Without test driving and pysically inspecting the vehicle it is not possible to identify the source or sources of the problems. My best estimate is that there are significant wear problems in front end components and that your front end aligment is also out.
However , I hope this helps.

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Worse case scenario, replace the rim (I'd get one from a wrecking yard). If the hub cap asthetics bother you, the salvage yard may also have one of those.
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