Question about Hyundai Motor 2003 Sonata

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Coolant fan electrical connector, wires pulled out

The 4 wires pulled out of the connecter and need to know what order they go back. gray light blue red green. wires on mating plug are different colors. thanks

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I usually don't tell this But, I am REALLY Busy right now. Call the Dealership Closest to you and ask for Service, Tell them you are a Mechanic and your Problem. They more than likely will tell you over the Phone. That is the Fastest way to accomplish this!

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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The 3.3 engen overheats but the fan doesn't kick in. I have changed the thermostat but that didn't help the over heating. I hot wired the fan and it will run. ???? Is there a fuse some place i...


Try unplugging the temp sensor located on or near the thermostat housing. This will cause the fan to come on, if it works. If the fan does not come on then check for burnt wires near battery and fuse box. You may need to squeeze and manipulate these wires to find burnt area. I have seen coolant temp sensors, faulty fan motors, and burnt fuseible links cause this. When unpugging the CTS the check engine light will come on, don't worry about it.

Sep 01, 2011 | 1991 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Both coolant fans stopped working Checked both fuses the 40a and 50a both good


Hi, here are some things to check:

If you have a 12 volt test light, connect the test light to battery positive and probe the black wire with a brown stripe at the fan connector. The light should light, or you need to repair the ground connection.

Start the car and let it heat up. Then, assuming your horn works, borrow the horn relay to check the fan relays. Mark it so you know which one is good. Put the horn relay in each of the 3 fan relay sockets, one at a time, leaving the other relays in place. If putting the horn realy in any of the fan relay sockets works to turn the fans on, leave it there and buy a new relay for the horn.

If this does not work, pull out the fan high relay, start the car again (engine still hot) and probe the relay socket with your test light. Terminal 85 should light the test light.

If still no-go, you will need a voltmeter for the next test. Leave the sensor connected and use the voltmeter to probe the back of the coolant temperature sensor. Check the voltage on the sensor wires with the engine running. The reading should be between 1-5 volts DC. If not, replace the sensor.

If none of this works, consider replacing the front control module (in the same box as the fuses and relays).

Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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coolant temp sensor location:
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Jun 05, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler 300

2 Answers

The fan doesnt come on and it over heats.we've tried to replace the relay but it didnt fix the problem


You have a problem in the wiring harness then. You will need a voltage reader to check all of the wires. Test them for current. There could be a loose connection or a break in the line.

Feb 18, 2011 | 1992 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Where are the bolts to remove the starter on a 1993 quad 4 grand am?


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except 2.3L and 2.4L Engines

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the electrical wiring from
    the starter, if accessible.
  3. If necessary for access, unfasten the three dust cover bolts, then pull the
    dust cover back to get to the front starter bolt. Remove the front starter bolt.

  4. Remove the rear support bracket.
  5. Pull the rear dust cover back (if applicable) to gain access to the rear
    starter bolt and remove the rear bolt.
  6. Note the number and location of any shims.
  7. Push the dust cover back into place (if removed), then lower the starter
    (disconnect any wiring if previously inaccessible) from the vehicle.
    To install:

  8. Position the starter in the vehicle, connect the wiring, then install the
    rear starter bolt.
  9. Install the front starter bolt, then tighten both bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43
    Nm)
  10. If removed, install the dust cover and the rear support bracket.
  11. Connect the electrical wiring to the starter, if not already attached.
  12. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.




    Fig. 1: Once the vehicle is raised and safely supported, you
    will be able to see the starter motor
    86883015.jpg





    Fig. 2: After disconnecting the wiring, remove the starter
    mounting bolts
    86883016.jpg





    Fig. 3: When removing the starter, be sure to note the number
    and location of any shims
    86883017.jpg





    Fig. 4: View of the starter mounting - 3.1L and 3.3L engines
    91062g09.gif

2.3L Engine
1988-89 (VIN D)

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the air cleaner to throttle body duct.
  3. Label and detach the TPS, IAC and MAP sensor connectors.
  4. Remove vacuum harness assembly and the MAP sensor vacuum hose from intake
    manifold, then position aside.
  5. Unfasten the cooling fan shroud attaching bolts, then remove the shroud
    (including the MAP sensor).
  6. Remove the coolant fan-to-upper radiator support bolt, then unfasten the
    remaining upper radiator support bolt and the upper radiator support.
  7. Detach the connector from the cooling fan.
    NOTE: Because of the low clearance, be very careful not to
    damage the TPS lock tang with the fan bracket.


  8. Lift the fan assembly out of the two lower insulators. Rotate the bracket so
    the two lower bracket legs point upward. Move the fan assembly toward the left
    (drivers) side until the fan blade overlaps the radiator tank-to-core seam about
    1 inch (25mm). Lift the fan assembly from the engine compartment.
  9. Remove the harness retaining clip from the engine mount bracket stud.
    Unfasten the starter mounting bolts.
  10. Tilt the rear of starter towards the radiator, pull the starter out, then
    rotate solenoid towards the radiator to gain access to the electrical
    connections.
    NOTE: Be careful not to damage the crank sensor mounted
    directly to the rear of the starter. If it gets damaged, it must be replaced.


  11. Detach the electrical connectors from the solenoid.
  12. Move the starter toward the driver's side of the vehicle, then lift it from
    the vehicle.
    To install:

  13. Insert the starter between the throttle body and the air cleaner housing,
    then move it toward the right (passenger) side.
  14. Attach the solenoid electrical connectors. Make sure to properly position
    the plastic guard over the stud and nut for the battery cable.
  15. Rotate the starter into the proper position, install any shims that were
    removed and secure using the mounting bolt. Tighten the bolts to 74 ft. lbs.
    (100 Nm).
  16. With the fan's bracket two lower legs facing upward, place the fan assembly
    between the throttle body and the radiator while overlapping the radiator
    tank-to-core seam with the fan blade by about 1 inch (25mm). Be careful not to
    damage the lock tang on the TPS.
  17. Rotate the fan bracket, then place the two lower legs into the insulators.
  18. Attach the electrical connector to the cooling fan.
  19. Install the upper radiator support and the coolant fan should, then install
    the fan-to-upper radiator support mounting bolt.
  20. Connect the MAP vacuum hose and the vacuum harness assembly to the intake
    manifold.
  21. Attach the TPS, IAC and MAP sensor connectors.
  22. Install the air cleaner to throttle body duct.
  23. Connect the negative battery cable, then check for proper starter operation.

1990-95 (VIN D), 1989-94 (VIN A), 1992-94 (VIN 3)

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If necessary for access, remove the air induction tube.
  3. Detach the coolant fan electrical connector, then remove the fan assembly.
  4. Remove the oil filter, if necessary for access to the starter.
  5. For vehicles through 1990, remove the intake manifold brace.
  6. Remove the mounting bolts; some engines may have 3 starter mounting bolts.
    Pull the starter out of the hole and move toward the front or passenger side of
    the vehicle.
  7. Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid.




    Fig. 5: Starter mounting for 2.3L engine - 1990-95 models
    91062g10.gif

  8. Remove the starter by lifting it between the intake manifold and the
    radiator.
    To install:

  9. Lower the starter between the intake manifold and the radiator, then connect
    the wiring to the solenoid.
  10. Rotate the starter into installation position and install the mounting
    bolts. For vehicles through 1994, tighten to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm). For 1995
    vehicles, tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  11. If equipped, install the intake manifold brace and oil filter, if removed.
  12. Install the cooling fan assembly, then attach the electrical connector.
  13. If removed, install the air induction tube.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper
    operation.

2.4L Engine

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the air inlet duct attached to the throttle body.
  3. Remove the top starter bolt.
  4. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  5. Remove the lower starter bolt.
  6. Position the engine wiring harness aside.
  7. Position the starter for access to solenoid wiring.
  8. Remove the wiring attached to the starter.
  9. Carefully lower the starter.
    To install:

  10. Attach the wiring to the starter and position the assembly into place.
  11. Install the lower starter bolt.
  12. Reposition the wiring.
  13. Lower the vehicle and install the upper starter bolt. Tighten the bolts to
    66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  14. Attach the air inlet duct to the throttle body.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.


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Oct 31, 2010 | 1993 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

Im installing a JVC KD - A315 radio in a 2003 alero, when i took out old radio all the wires were cut and turned into speaker wire running all over the place the factory amp is in the back i went ahead...


There may be extra wires you don't need. The basic set of wires on the radio is 4 pairs of colored wires--one black-striped and one plain for each speaker. Yellow is usually accessory power, red is hot, and black is ground. Some additional wires may be one for a power antenna, one for an external amplifyer, and one for facelight (in case it will run on dimmer)
The car should have the following corresponding wires:
Radio 12v--- orange
Radio Ground--- black
Radio Ignition--- yellow
Radio Illumination--- brown
Dimmer--- gray
Power Antenna--- pink (if you have one)
LF Speaker +/- tan - grey
RF Speaker +/- lt green - dk green
LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow
RR Speaker +/- dk. blue- lt. blue

The car or radio could have additional connectors, such as for a subwoofer, CD changer, etc.

Aug 28, 2010 | 2003 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

I have a f350 crew cab 1997 5.8 and while drivin and after take off the truck loses power and shakes then stops seems like only when accelerating this happens.


Hello! There are two sensors that will cause this problem both can be tested...If you have a volt meter...If not, let me know...
#1 is the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS)...A black round device that is bolted to the throttle body with a three wire connector...Wire colors are...Gray/White...Brown/White...And Gray/Red...Using two safety pins plug them into the rear of the in place connector on the Gray/White...And Brown/White...Place + probe of meter set to read 5 volts on the Gray/White...And - probe on Brown/White...Start engine...At idle must read less than 1 volt (.85)...As you slowly increase throttle meter must rise smoothly to 4 volts at open throttle...If voltage jumps or acts erratic the sensor is defective...

#2 is the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor...Also mounted to throttle body...Three wire connector with the following wire colors...Light Green/Blue...Gray/Red...And Brown/White...Using the same technique...Pin the rear of the connector on the Light Green/Blue...And the Brown/White...Place + probe on Light Green/Blue and - probe on Brown/White...Turn key to on (don't start)...Record reading...Move Light Green/Blue probe with safety pin and push it into the Gray/Red wire...Record reading....Also check the vacuum line which is connected to the Map Send results...

Cost...TPS=$55............MAP=$95

Guru.................Saailer

Aug 27, 2010 | 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

1 Answer

1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 litre 6cyl automatic cooling fan does not come on to cool engine, causing overheating of the engine.


OK here we go you will need a test light for the following tests, i will try to be as descriptive as possible so lets get started

fist start the engine and turn on the a/c that should command the fan on.
right front engine compartment next to the battery is the power distribution center pop off the top, ground your test light to the negative battery terminal and find fuse number 10 it is a 40 amp fuse check both sides of this fuse with your test light, if you have power on both sides of the fuse than we shall go further.

unplug the connector from the cooling fan, there should be two wires in the plug one is dark green and the other is black with a pink tracer, with your test lite grounded to the negative battery terminal check the dark green wire for power, if there is power there than move your test light ground clamp to the battery positive terminal and test the black wire for ground,
if testing the black wire made the test light shine than the ground circuit is good, if it did not than check you ground connection behind the right headlight.
when testing the dark green wire, if the dark green wire made the test light shine and the ground circuit is good than you simply have a bad coolant fan motor.

I suspect you were not getting power to the fan motor so you will need to take a look at the radiator fan relay, this is a special solid state relay mounted to the inside of radiator core support on the right side down behind the bumper.

here you will find a single plug with 4 wires in it

black = ground
dark blue / pink = relay controll from pcm
dark green = output to radiator cooling fan
gray = battery power from fuse # 10 in pdc

unplug the relay ground your test light to the battery negative terminal, with the engine running and a/c turned on check the gray wire the test light, it should turn on if not recheck fuses.

move your test light to the battery posistive terminal and test the dark blue / pink wire, if the test light turns on than you have a bad radiator fan relay, you can pick one up at your local parts store for about $85.00 just make sure you get a high quality one the cheap ones have a hard time with the amprege consumption of that fan.

good luck

wesley schacht@hotmail.com

Jun 14, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Digital clock


Here is a wiring diagram of the radio by wire color:

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Green/Yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
Radio Dimmer Wire: n/a
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: Blue (Same as Antenna Trigger)
Front Speakers Size and Location: 5′ x 7′ Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Rear Speakers SIze and Location: 5′ x 7′ Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink
-->

Aug 14, 2008 | 1988 Ford Mustang

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