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Anti-theft system problem ! Does yours have a red light in the top center of the dash that flashes fast when trying to start the vehicle ? Maybe the starter relay or the transmission range sensor is bad . How Handy are you Jill ,can you use a DVOM -digital volt ohm meter ? Can you do basic electrical testing ? Do you know what a relay is an looks like ? The relay is located
Starter Motor Relay
RH front corner of engine compartment, near battery
Check the wire from alternator to fuse box for a bad wire or a break in it. or corrosion on it. Battery cables loose or corroded. Is the battery ok!! check the main fuses in under hood fuse box. Good-Day! The charging wire goes to the fuse box first.
how was it hooked up before you started working on it. the black wire is the negative cable and that is the body ground and most bolt it to the engine or a bracket and there is a short wire sometimes and that will goto the body near the battery. now that is done. the positive red wire goes to the starter and or a block that has a wire going to the starter. the block is more like a metal strip with a bunch of bolts sticking out and the wires should be all red. that is mounted to the firewall and is plastic so it does not ground to the body.the short wire from the positive red cable is not always used. so if it was not hooked to anything leave it alone.
If battery and alternator are good is starter solenoid pulling in? it may be that whilst you have a new battery it may require charging new doesn't mean fully charged, batt may have been on shelf for awhile
battery could be at fault or there is a draw in system that pulls down battery
have battery tested and leave it disconected for a few days then reconect to see if vehicle starts
if it does battery should be o.k. next is there any thing that stayes on (aftermarket stuff)
that may cause a draw on system if thats ok need to performed parasetic draw on system
hook up voltage meter between positive cable and meter
on 20 volt schale put red wire of meter to battery positive post black wire to red wire that was hook to battery voltaged should be minimal only to keep computers alive (clock - radio preset-etc etc)
if draw is high start removing fuses in system one at a time and check the voltage meter until it drops
you have now located the faulty cicuit that that fuse feeds start looking in those area
also feel starter selenoid and alternator at rear to see if they feel warm thet could be partly switch on
killing the battery over time
you have two wires to starter solenoid 1 power from battery 1 remote wire from ign the clicking says its getting power from ignition sounds to me like your your battery maybe junk have it tested (try jumping) as well as the alternator double check bat and stater connections grounds as well. solenoid is it new as well? No relay found in chilton
If the battery is charged up and reading 13.5 volts, it should crank.If it reads below 12.5, it won't. The terminals are needing a good cleaning, all the contacts on the battery have to be clean, wire brush. The electrolyte in the battery should be checked. If still no crank, check the big wire to the starter, It has too be clean too. If all else fails, take the starter to the parts store and get it checked. Could be at fault. Hope this helps.
Wrong (to low amps) battery, poor condition of battery clamps, loose cables going from battery to starter assembly, battery installed in reverse polarity. Perhaps the NEW battery need to be charged ( storing a battery on concrete (cement) slab will cause a drainage of the battery and it doesnt take long)