Engine loses power under load

vary old 1991 down under Diesel. engine no size engine told.
Fourth generation (H100; 1989-2004)! ww all these engines. and matters huge for the cure and parts that match that engine,, not told.

2.4 L 2L-T/2L-TE turbocharged I4
2.5 L 2KD-FTV Low Version D-4D I4 (Intercooled/Non-Intercooled - Europe)
2.5 L 2KD-FTV High Version D-4D I4 (Intercooled/Non-Intercooled - Europe)
2.8 L 3L I4
3.0 L 5L/5L-E I4
3.0 L 1KZ-TE I4

now my answer based on no engine told
HL are 2nd problem. if battery is good and alternator good
and battery reads 13.3vdc to 15vdc at idle if not ALT is bad.
but you'd know that driving 1 hour or more, it would stall. (maybe)
first off the glow plugs must all be good or cold starter will fail or be horrible in some way.
2nd great fact is runs great engine hot. see that is important too know.
bad wring for HL, the starter motor will fill if batteries are weak
fail hard. that.
so you have power it cranks and if HL fail HL are bad, wiring?
got DRL down under ? daylight running lamps. hope not they stink..
or the main fuse box under hood (bay) the box has rusted fuse terminals, seen many here, 1990 cars. rusted bad.
CALLED BAD WIRING.
this bad in this spot effects all 12vdc power to all things in car.
the fuses are huge 50amps or 100amp or more.
so the answer is get the trucks serviced
a real shop that knows electrics and diesels both.
tell them what said, and they will find it, even just looking .

and a glow plug test. for sure.

Faulty glow plugs or air in fuel system

I assume there's a problem with alternator. Check the grounding to engine, check continuity of a positive wire between alternator and battery. the energizing voltage should be checked as well. Might be the bad connection between battery and vehicle body grounding. Diesel cars are sensitive even in a little loss of connection and rust in the connection points.

If the car turns over well..so you can crank the engine using the key and it turns over fast, but it won't start, could be down to low fuel pressure, possibly fuel pump. Could be the coil ( which I doubt as the car starts when bumped) or, like you say, the plugs. The fact that the engine fires up when pushed, and the lack of info regarding how well the engine turns over using the battery, seems to me that it could be either a bad earth ground from the battery, but more likely a bad battery that's lost it amps and losing its charge quickly when the engine is off. Engines can turn over with a bad battery but the amps are bad and it dies quick. One thing you could try would be to see if you can get someone to jump start the engine using cables. If the engine starts its most likely the battery. You may still encounter a problem using cables because there still might not be enough amps getting through, so the best option would be to try a different battery first. Your car is starting when bumped which makes me think the plugs are ok, as when power reaches the plugs, they heat up and create combustion. If the fuel pressure is low, this could cause your problem, as the bump will increase the pressure and supply allowing it to start. I'm not sure if your car is electronic pump or mechanical. If it's electrical this could be unlikely the cause unless the power drain when trying to crank the engine from the battery is causing poor fuel supply from the electric pump. There is another thing..do you allow enough time for the glow plugs to heat up? some cars as they age prefer some time with the key on to the point the dash lights are on, and wait 30 seconds and then turn over the engine, this power supply can allow the plugs to heat up prior to being turned over. One other thing could be the pre- heaters. I'm not sure the exact names, but modern engines have a system that pre-heats the plugs, like pre-coils or something. This could be bad.

Try this first:
turn key to the point the ignition is on fully with lights on but don't turn over the engine. Leave it 30 seconds and then turn over the engine. See if this works. This will help heat the plugs and prime the fuel pump.

If this does not work, then try to get someone to jump start your car using cables. Again follow the previous tip. If this works it's likely your battery.

If this does not work, try a different battery. hopefully someone can loan you one. If this works, it's your old battery. some batteries are maintenance free, so you shouldn't top up with distilled water, but some are not and lose water. If it's low, top it up with distilled water. Do not use tap water. Be careful handling the battery with the caps off. Do not over fill.

If this does not work, try new glow plugs.

If this does not work, it could be the fuel pump causing low pressure.

Lastly, when you key the engine to turn it ove, does it just click? If you just hear a click from the starter motor, then either the battery is bad, a bad earth ground requiring a clean of the terminals and reconnecting them, or new starter motor. If you just hear a click and the battery is good, see if you can get someone to whack the starter motor body with a hammer and it may start. Be very careful not to have the car is gear, to no get your hand caught in moving parts, etc. This is at your own risk, please google how to do this and then decide if you wish to try.

There can only be so many problems. Power or fuel. It starts when pushed, so it gets fuel from the pump when pushed. The plugs get power when pushed. The key is does it turn over from battery, and is it getting enough amps. Good luck

what kind of light,check engine, abs,traction control? usually if the check engine light or service engine soon light comes on under heavy acceleration it leads to a bad O2 sensor. check the ECM for history codes.

The code P0674 tells you that something in the glow plug circuit is faulty causing the glow plug on cylinder #4 to fail to heat up. The entire circuit must be checked to locate the fault.

Symptoms With just one glow plug failure other than the check engine light coming on, the symptoms will be minimal since the engine will normally start with one bad plug, under freezing conditions you would be more likely to experience hard starting.

Potential Causes The causes for this DTC may include: Faulty cylinder #4 glow plug Open or shorted glow plug circuit Damaged wiring connector Faulty glow plug control module Diagnostic Steps & Possible Solutions You will need a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) for the complete test.
Continue through the tests until the problem is confirmed. You will also need a basic OBD code scanner to reset the computer and erase the code. Check the cylinder #4 glow plug by disconnecting the wire connector on the plug. Place the DVOM on ohms and place the red lead on the glow plug terminal and the black lead on a good ground. The range is .5 to 2.0 ohms, if it is out of range replace the glow plug.

i think glow plug replacement needed. ever used starting fluid in cold to start?try this, next time no start, cycle your key and let the light come on, wait till it goes off, turn key again until light goes off, if you have to do this more than 3 times, and it runs fine, replace the glow plugs only then. thank you for choosing fixya.com!

the glow plugs only come on when the engine is below a certain temp,so if you drove it to the gas station,chances are it didnt need them.BUT,it could have been just at the temp that the glow plugs werent needed and the engine was still coldish.happens very rarely.wet air is colder than hot air so that would also have an effect.lastly, this engine is known to foul up the injectors with carbon so use redexe/wynns or similar at 1can to 1/2 tank fuel,you WILL feel the difference.......

p1677 code on ssangyong stavic 2.7l turbo diesel. Engine light comes on and vehicle loses all power and coasts to a halt. Also has 3 open circuit glow plug codes.

Hi

The glow plug coming on on the Diesel Mondeo is an engine management fault indicator. The car goes into "limp mode" when this happens or in other words safety mode is triggered. This explains your loss of power.

To find the cause of this light coming on - the car will have to go on an OBD scanner at a service shop which will read the codes stored in the cars computer and give you an answer as to what is causing the fault to show.

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