CAR HAS HAD NEW STRUTS AXLES BALL JOINTS STILL SOUNDS BADDDDDD!!
LONG STORY SHORT BOUGHT A LOWERED CAR. OOOPS! THE TIRE DECIDED THAT IT WAS GONNA COME OFF WHILE DRIVING APP. 10-15 MPH STUDS COMPLETELY BROKE OFF MY CAR LUG NUTS STILL ATTACHED WHEN I FOUND THEM. I FIXED THAT REPLACED CALIPERS AND ROTORS . AT THE SAME TIME REPLACED THE SPRINGS, NEW FROM HONDA, AND PUT IN NEW STRUTS. IT WAS STILL BOUNCING AND NOISEYJUST NOT RIGHT SO WE RECENTLY REPLACED THE AXLES , LOWER BALL JOINTS, AND TIE ROD ENDS BOTH SIDES. IT STILL SOUND LIKE THE DARN WHEEL ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IS BOUNCING AROUND OR SOMTHING WHEN IM DRIVING THIS IS NOT THE SIDE THAT HAD DAMAGE DONE TO IT EITHER. WHAT ON EARTH COULD IT BE??? PLEASE WERE STUMPPED . ALMOST A CLANGGING SOUND ANY LIL CRACK IN THA ROAD AND ITS LOUD AND VERY ANNOYING BUT IT SOUNDS LIKE THAT WHEELS BOUNCING AROUND DOING ITS OWN THING READY TO COME OFF OR SOMTHING
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Re: CAR HAS HAD NEW STRUTS AXLES BALL JOINTS STILL SOUNDS...
First thing to do is drive the car and when you start hearing the rattle,
lightly touch the brakes.This
effectively loads up the callipers and drive shafts.If the noise goes away, you might have
rattling calliper pins (even new Honda’s suffer with this) or it might be
either the inner or outer drive shaft couplings (more likely the outer drive
shaft couplings) which may be cracked or badly worn.It could be 100 things but as a tip, get
yourself a very good inspection lamp and check every nut and bolt connected to
the suspension, brakes and engine support systems.You should be looking for signs of wear,
rubbing and also rusting around and on joints – that’s a good indicator that
things are not tight.Hope this helps.
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when you rotate the tires and their is no change check the c/v axle -and hub 25k is not considered new have changed hubs that have gone bad at 10k -look into ball joints,upper lower bushings ,tie rod,struts the latter can cause vibration but usually at all speeds
put on jack stands, remove tire, remove brake caliper and bracket, detach outer tie rod end, remove axle bolt, remove hub bolts from strut, tape on axle with hammer to remove it from hub, loosen lower ball joint bolt, use fork tool to brake joint loose, remove hub and bearing, remove stabilizer links, remove bolts on lower control arm, replace every thing in reverse
I take it that this is a Ford car in which case I doubt very much that it has king pins in the front end. It will have either an upper and lower ball joints in control arms or a lower ball joint on the end of a strut. Ford ball joints are riveted in from factory and the rivets have to drilled out and the new ball joints will have the correct bolts to replace the rivets IN the case of a strut the lower ball joint is replaced as above and the strut will have a replaceable insert in it that you can remove and fit a new insert in place . Ford stopped using king pins when they gave away "I" beam front axles .
Check the stabilizer links (also known as the sway bar links). They are the parts that go between the stabilizer bar and the strut. You will need to check them with both wheels on the ground. you will be able to move the ends in and out or up and down if they are loose/sloppy. If those are tight than check the lower ball joints.
You can check the ball joints buy jacking up the vehicle. Do not jack under the control arms. Grab the tire at the 3 o'clock position and aggressively push/pull. If you feel any movement than position yourself so that you can safely watch the lower ball joint while you aggressively push or pull on the tire. If you see it moving it is bad.
The inner and outer tie rods could also be sloppy but will require much less force to get them to move. You will be able to put one hand on those parts while you move the tire with the other had.
It is also possibly that the stabilizer bar bushings could be bad also.
The last possibility that I can think of is that the bushings in the lower control arms where the radius arms pass through (the parts that attach to the front of the sub-frame and then bolt to the middle of the lower control arms, are sloppy. Usually you will see the whole tire move back and forth when you brake or accelerate when they are bad.
Hope this helps and please don't forget to rate! Thank you!
Front ball joint with heat shield
Remove and Replace-
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the ball joint heat shield.
Remove and discard the lower ball joint cotter pin.
Remove the ball joint nut.
Loosen, but do NOT remove, the stabilizer shaft bushing assembly bolts.
Separate the ball joint from the strut/knuckle assembly using ball joint/tie rod puller J-35917 or equivalent.
Do NOT damage the halfshaft boots when drilling out the ball joint rivets.
Drill out the rivets retaining the ball joint to the knuckle strut assembly and remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Use a 1/8 in. drill bit. Refer to the instructions in the ball joint replacement kit.
Position the lower ball joint in the strut/knuckle assembly.
Install the four ball joint bolts and nuts, as shown in the ball joint kit and tighten to specifications.
Install the ball joint-to-lower control arm. Install a new ball joint-to-lower control arm nut.
Tighten the stabilizer shaft bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
For 1988-91 vehicles, tighten the ball joint-to-lower control arm nut 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus at least an additional 90° (11/2flats), plus enough to align the cotter pin hole. Do NOT overtighten.
For 1992-96 vehicles, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). Tighten to align the next slot in the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Do NOT tighten more than 60° (1 flat) to align with the hole.
Install a new cotter pin.
Position the ball joint heat shield and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
Install the front wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper suspension operation
to replace the cv shaft on a honda is real easy, remove the tire,remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut, remove the bolt that holds the strut to the lower control arm, remove the axle nut in the center of the hub. seperate the lower ball joint from the hub. pull out on the hud a little bit and tap the axle through the hub. tie the hub out of your way so you can work. place a pry bar between the axle and the trany and give it a good snap out, remove the old axle, when installing place the new axle in the transmission and hit the end of it with a dead blow hammer to make sure it seats, then put the axle through strut fork and into the hub reinstall all bolts and tighten. hope this helps good luck. this should only take about 45 min
reomve tire securing the vehicle with tire hanging at it's lowest possition, remove the brake caliper & brake disc , remove nut lock on axle also axle nut , mark and remove strut bolts and push strut out remove ball joint lower bolt and use a fork ( tooling) seperate from hub slide hub off of axle , reverse steps to replace .
Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.
Ball joints are a serious safety issue, especially if they are making noise. Strut Rod bushings slightly less so. I agree with you, if they are that bad you should have heard your noise before you changed the tires. You didn't sat what kind of noise, but the problems he suggested should make a clunk or snap. Your best bet would be to double check to make sure he properly tightened the wheel nuts when he changed the tires, if you have alloy rims they need to be torqued. If he just put them on with an air gun he may have damaged the rim which could make it break and fall off. And take the car to a repair shop that you trust and have them check your front end. They'll be able to tell you what the tire guy did. Don't put it off because you will find yourself in serious trouble if any of these things are the problem.