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Re: replacing timing belt 91 mercury capri
According to a manual , the crank key will point to arrow , the intake cam should have an letter i aligned with arrow on belt cover and exhaust cam should have letter e aligned with arrow on belt cover , and as always rotate the engine 2 full turns to inspect timing marks before cranking or trying to start the engine . if you haven't taken the original belt off yet , paint your marks for quicker reference .
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Do you have the timing belt on and the tensioner set correct? If so, just rotate the crankshaft around until the notch on the crank sprocket is lined up with the pointer on the oil puimp housing (TDC). Now the camshaft sprocket's notch or pointer should be at the top and exactly in line with the mark on the rear timing belt cover. If it's not correct, you'll have to release tension on the belt, remove it, and set the camshaft to the mark. But before you do that, turn the crankshaft back (counterclockwise) just three notches. Then you can turn the cam to line up, then return crank to line up, and continue with belt installation, setting the tension, and re-checking timing marks after rotating the crankshaft a couple of revolutions. Once you know the timing is set to TDC, no further timing adjustments are possible, because the computer controls timing. I don't know how important it is, but just to let you know: Chrysler recommends after belt removal or replacement that one perform the "crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure" using the DRB scan tool (Chrysler's scanner device) or equivalent scan tool. And the firing order on all four cylinder engines is the same: 1 3 4 2. I hope this helps you out. Cheers.
look closely at cam, there will be a small triangle some where on the gear, then there will be a notch somewhere on the casing, line those two points up and on the crank same thing exept instead of a notch on the casing there will be a mark on the motor, just remember the crank turns twice to each cam spin so it can be tricking getting things just right
with the timing belt on the vehicle install the botton piece of the timing cover with crank pulley. line up the notch on the crank pulley with 0 on the timing cover for top dead center on the crank. then there is a small sight hole in the spokes on the camshaft timing gear. with the belt off the timing gear line up that sight hole with a notch behind the gear on the cylinder head. you will only be able to see the notch through the sight hole with a mirror. once these are lined up slide the belt back on the timing gear and recheck afterward. this the procedure for all 5s-fe motors
I hop you are replacing the belt and tensioner/ idler pulleys. the crank pulley has a notch approx 12'oclock. the cams will be marked rear cam "I" and front cam "E" .. put both letters at 12 o clock. there should be a notch at the top of the cover for the cams at 12 o clock. thats all there is to it. to tension the belt, after you have it all timed up. put some tension on it, tighten tensioner bolt, turn the engine 2 revolutions, then double check your marks, push down with you thumb between the cam sprokets with 20 lbs of force, the belt should delfect about 10MM if its too loose, loosen the tensione rbolt an dturn it tighter a little more an dck tension again. If you get it too tight it will whine and wear the cam journals, too loose and timing will not be correct.
all marks need to be aligned to 12 o'clock driver cam should align with notch in cover,crank sprocket also at 12 o'clock there is a straight line on reluctor of crank gear ,this line matches a notch on the oil pump where the crank sensor fits,right cam at 12 line should match camcase where it meets cylinder head
Your 180 off dont try to start it anymore unless you want bent valves.I just bought a fixer w/bent valves due to 180 off time the woodruff key on a Subaru isnt tdc its the vertical line on the outer fin on the pulley in line with the vertical line on the oil pump 12 oclock the top cams single line 12 oclock. II the double lines pointing 6 oclock pointing to bottom cams II double line at 12 oclock.A manual is pricless for this info and saves time
Get a 17 mm socket and a ratchet with a short extension.Behind the drivers side front wheel theres an acces hole that will allow you to turn the crank pulley with the ratchet.You dont need to remove the wheel or jack the car up to do this.Make sure trans is in neutral and parking brake set.Now,turn crank pulley counter clockwise until the TDC mark is lined up with the pointer on the plastic timing belt cover.It will be a single notch on the rear edge of the pulley,the 3 notches together are for ignition timing.Like this I I I I It may be hard to see but its there.Wipe pulley off or feel with fingernail and you'll find them.Remember to use the single notch by itself.Now look on the cam gear and make sure TOP is at twelve o'clock and the two notches on the left and right are horizontal with the cylinder head.You're done.
If you have the 2.0 L engine, then the two cam marks should point upward to match the notches in the valve cover. The crankshaft notch should point downwards to match the V notch in the lip of the oil pan. Hope this helps...
The cams have a notch in the back of them (facing driver's side) in which fits a flat piece of steel to lock the cams in place. The notches are not exactly centered on the camshaft, meaning that it's impossible to set them 180 degrees out, because then the flat piece of steel that is supposed to be inserted to lock the cams in place simply won't fit because the top of the cylinder head will get in the way. I highly recommend getting a Hayne's or Chiltons manual if you don't already have one. It should explain this process under the Timing Belt Replacement instructions. The cam lock tool (that flat piece of steel) can be purchased at ZXturner.com: http://zxtuner.com/product.sc?categoryId=23&productId=191