Question about 2005 Chrysler Town & Country

3 Answers

Heater stopped working today. Rear still working but not alot.

I sometimes have trouble with the OCM (?) fuse that prevents the automatic door locks from works. I remove the fuse for 30 seconds and replace it. I don't know if this problem with the heater is related. I saw other postings for the same problem. I have a 2005 Chrysler Town and County.

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  • bblue1967 Jan 02, 2009

    I meant the IOD fuse (not OCM)....

  • bblue1967 Jan 04, 2009

    Hi rrricja, thanks for your reply for my plea for help with the front heater. OK, to clarify, the heat does work in the front - it is the blower that stopped working. I did locate the green fuse, removed it, looked at it and replaced it again. The blower still would not work. I looked to see if there was a broken connection or something. I will actually go to the store and buy a new one on Monday.

    I was hoping that it was the same sort of thing as my IOD fuse - I remove it for 30-45 seconds and replace it to fix the door locks...

    I'll keep you posted on the fan fuse to see if that works!

  • rrricha May 11, 2010

    Of course, if it is the fuse that's blown, that possibly means there is something else wrong that is causing excessive current, like a ground or short somewhere in the system. But that's not always the case, so if the fuse is blown, at least try replacement of the fuse once, to see if that solves the problem. On the other hand, it could be that the blower motor just failed, but that seems unlikely, since your vehicle is not that old.

  • rrricha May 11, 2010

    When you say that the (front) heater stopped working, do you mean that the fan stopped running, or does the fan run but no heat or airflow comes out? If the fan has stopped running, there is a front blower fuse in the "Integrated Power Module" (fuse box); it is in position F10 and it is a 40 amp green fuse. You might check that. If the fan runs but no air comes out, you might have a problem with the system that controls the "doors" in the HVAC system that direct airflow.

    PS Thanks for the solution to the remote entry system problem (remove/replace the IOD fuse). It worked.


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2005 Chrysler T&C Van. My front blower also stopped working overnight. Rear blower works fine. I swapped the 40A fuse in the underhood fuse box with the 40A fuse for the power seats since I don't have power seats. No help. I then swapped the front blower relay with the spare relay in the same box. No help. I'm wondering if there is a reset button for the blower and if so where it may be. Any hint or help with the blower would definiely be appreciated. Thanks

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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I have a 1996 Chev Lumina and the front heater just quit the back fan still blows but the front does not

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

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This happened to me also. It turned out the my AC compressor was going out. Please don't wait as long as I did because it froze over & locked up. This started burning the serpent belt that also runs the fan & other components. If the belt breaks, you will get stranded. I don't know if this will solve your problem but it sound very similar to the problems I had before replacement of AC Compressor.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

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  2. Close all of the doors.
  3. Remove the MALL PGM fuse from the fuse block.
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    Chime 1, 2, or 3 times.

  7. Turn the ignition to OFF, and then back to ACC within 1 second.
  8. The BCM may begin to chime and flash diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). If the BCM has stored any DTCs, refer to Diagnostic System Check - Body Control System in Body Control System.
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  13. Repeat the previous step in order to program each additional transmitter.
  14. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
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I was looking for the fuse box in my 2006 jeep grand cherokee

Interior Fuses

The fuse panel is on the lower instrument panel just to
the left of the steering column.

1 30 Amp Green Audio Amp (B+)

2 15 Amp Blue Sunroof (B+)

3 10 Amp Red Htd Mirror (EBL)

4 20 Amp Yellow Rr Pwr Out (B+)

5 10 Amp Red Rr HVAC (R/O)

6 10 Amp Red OCM (B+)

7 20 Amp Yellow Door Locks (B+)

8 15 Amp Blue Steer Col Lock (B+)

9 20 Amp Yellow Pwr Outlet (B+)

10 10 Amp Red Ign Run Only Out (R/O)

11 Spare

12 10 Amp Red Mem. Sw, Courtesy Lamp


13 Spare

14 20 Amp Yellow Cigar Ltr (R/A)
15 10 Amp Red Tire Press Mon (R/O)

16 10 Amp Red SCM, Cluster OBD (B+)

17 15 Amp Blue Flipper Glass (B+)

19 10 Amp Red OCM (R/S)

20 10 Amp Red WCM, Cluster (R/S)

21 15 Amp Blue Autowipe (Accy Delay)

22 15 Amp Blue Rear Wiper (B+)

24 10 Amp Red PDC, FCM, A580 (R/S)

25 10 Amp Red ABS, Trans. Case Switch


CB1 20 Amp Cycle -Wipers (B+)

CB2 20 Amp Non - Cycle Seats (B+)
CB3 20 Amp Non - Cycle Windows (Delay)

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Toyota corolla verso 2007 . the central locking has stopped working

Toyota Corolla Verso - Central locking has just stopped responding

So you don't waste your time, here are some assumptions: -

1. When I press the key fob there is no sound of doors trying to lock/unlock and I know the key fob is fine.


In this situation reset the alarm/locking system

Below is the procedure I followed to get the central locking working again: -

Open the passenger door, and look at the side of the dash board. There should be a triangular panel. Pull the panel off to reveal a small set of fuses(see the back of the panel for the fuse map). To power down the central locking you need to remove the Dome Light fuse, this is located top left. Second one down 7.5 amps. (if in doubt remove the top two 7.5 amp fuses I did)

When you remove the fuse(s) you will notice the interior light go out indicating you have powered down the system.

Now leave them out for at least 30 mins so any capacitors can discharge properly. (Be aware while the fuse is removed all central locking is disabled, so the other doors are open. I left the fuse(s) out over night with all the doors open but I don't recommend it, 30 mins should be fine)

After 30 mins replace the fuse(s) close all doors, and then try your key fob, hopefully you should here that satisfying locking sound.

2. When I press the key fob I hear the locking system trying to engage.

This could be a faulty door switch on any door including the boot, or there could be a dent in the inner door panel of any of the doors, usualy the rear doors due to the seat belt not retracting properly.


Check all door switches for damage, and check inner panel for dents, just a small dent where the switch connects can be enough to not engage the switch. This will stop the central locking.

Use some kitchen roll wrapped in tape (as a makeshift pad) and tape to the inner door as a temp measure to engage the door switch. At least you can then lock the car.

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