Re: oil all over engine compartment, engine oil very low
With out looking there is no way to tell buy two cans of engine degreaseer wash the engine refill with oil start engine and look for leaks if you are lucky it will be a loose oil filter. Could be any number of things.
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first thing check make sure oil pan drain plug tight. check make sure oil filter tight. try tighten oil filter by hand see if turn tighten oil filter clockwise direcction if all is good. how many miles on vechicle.could have oil leaks park vechicle in spot that clean.move vechicle see if you see oil spots on ground if yes.your front timing cover seal leaking oil or rear main oil seal ;eaking.or valve cover gaskets leaking.if find no oil leaks more likely engine burning oil.replace pcv valve.check air filter if you see oil in air filter housing either have bad pcv valve or pcv not getting vacuum make sure pcv valve getting vacuum when engine running vacuum should be felt at pcv if not pcv valve bad or pcv hose disconnected broken or plugged.if pcv valve okay engine has worn piston rings.worn valve seals or guides or oil return holes stopped up thats all possible reasons for engine burning oil.if spark plugs oil fouled engine burning oil.
severe oil leaks would be front timing cover crankshaft seal and the rear main seal or leak at oil pump at front timing cover oil leaks can come from damaged oil filter seal or damaged oil pressure sending unit.slow oil leaks oil pan gasket the valve cover gasket leaks you will see and smell smoke from under engine compartment which could be a fire hazard.
The main thing you will need to do is to minimise the amount of 'excessive' engine fumes being generated in your engine compartment which in turn will 'leak' into your car compartment:
1) Degrease your engine and check for leaking oil gaskets especially around the oil refill area: oil leaks at the back of the engine falling on your hot exhaust pipes and on your engine block will generate lots and lots of 'nasty' smelling fumes!
2) Check that your exhaust pipes joints are well sealed especially the one contained within the engine compartment: taking great precautions, check for the obvious leaks from smoke emitted but you could use soapy water to assist.
3) Check that the lining in your engine compartment are in good condition taking particular attention to the 'Firewall' ones (e.g. the one between the engine compartment and the passenger side compartment).
4) Check for broken heating/cooling air hoses leading into the passenger compartment.
Hope it helps!
no, if the oil pressure is eratic the first thing i would check is the oil pump. unless lots of black smoke is coming out the tail pipe. in that case your engine seals are bad and you will have to do a compleate rebuild on the engine.
Check Front main seal, rear main seal, or one of the EGR hoses. Check oil fill cap. Also check filter if seal was crushed too hard it may be spraying oil out of it. Where is the largest amount of oil? May tell where its starting from.
Section 03-01: Engine, 4.6L (4V)
1997 Continental Workshop Manual
Oil Pan/Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube
Turn rear suspension leveler compressor switch (5K761) off (located in luggage compartment).
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
Remove oil level dipstick (6750).
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove dual converter Y pipe (5F250). Refer to Section 09-00 .
Drain engine oil from crankcase.
Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the low oil level sensor connector.
Remove the power steering pressure hose retainer brackets from the engine front cover studs (two places). Position the power steering pressure hose (3A719) out of the way.
Remove 16 bolts retaining oil pan (6675) to cylinder blocks (6010) and remove oil pan and oil pan gasket (6710).
Remove two bolts retaining oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) to oil pump (6600).
Remove bolt retaining oil pump screen and cover and tube support brace to main bearing stud spacer.
Remove oil pump screen cover and tube. Discard O-ring.
Bolt (16 Req'd)
Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube
Oil Pan Gasket
Tighten to 20 Nm (14 Lb-Ft), then rotate 60 degrees clockwise Installation
Inspect oil pump screen cover and tube and replace if necessary.
Position oil pump screen cover and tube on oil pump with a new O-ring and hand-start two bolts.
Install bolt retaining oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer finger-tight.
Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube-to-oil pump bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in). Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer bolt to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
Clean oil pan and inspect for damage.
Clean sealing surfaces of engine front cover (6019) and cylinder blocks with a clean cloth. If scraping is required, only use plastic-tipped scrapers to prevent damaging the aluminum sealing surfaces.
Position new oil pan gasket on oil pan.
Apply Silicone Gasket and Sealant F6AZ-19562-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A6 where engine front cover meets cylinder blocks and crankshaft rear oil seal retainer meets cylinder blocks. Position oil pan on cylinder blocks and install 16 bolts. Tighten bolts in sequence to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft), then rotate an additional 60 degrees clockwise.
Yes a crappy PVC valve can cause some of your problems but not necessarily all of them, they are cheap, I always replace it to start. The air cleaner housing being full of oil is like how the oil is being consumed. In addition to a PVC valve, there may also be a blow-by hose running into the housing. check to see what other hoses go into the housing & which ones have oil coming from them. I'm not familiar with the "Motor Honey" you mentioned but I rarely add additives to my Engine oil, especially if they are thickeners. The only stuff I recommend is a Quaker state or similar "High Mileage Oil". These semi-synthetic oils have additives to swell old rubber & cork seals in older engines and can help reduce oil consumption & leakage. Again, it may not be a total solution, but it couldn't hurt to drain out all of the existing oil & replace with a high mileage type & also change the filter at the same time. Never mix it with other oils, despite the manufacturer telling you it may be safe to do so.
Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container.
the instrument panel glove compartment. Push in on the sides of the
compartment to release it, allowing access to the heater core.
The heater core can be damaged if too much force is applied to the heater core pipes during hose removal.
the heater module screws and remove the heater module assembly cover.
For vehicles equipped with A/C, remove the air conditioning evaporator
temperature sensor assembly from the heater and A/C cover.
Remove the heater core screw and clamp.
Remove the hose pipe clamp screw and the hose pipe clamp. Clamp off the heater hoses.
Fig. 1: Heater hose and pipe routing-3.4L engineFig. 2: Heater hose and pipe routing-3.8L engineFig. 3: Heater hose and pipe routing-5.7L engine
Disconnect the heater hoses from the pipes.
Remove the heater core by carefully pulling it towards you.
Fig. 4: Exploded view of the heater core removed from the heater module assemblyTo install:
Install the heater core and attach the heater hose assembly to the heater hose pipes. Note the following:
Lubricate the heater core pipes with petroleum jelly for ease of installation and to assure a good seal.
Be sure the seals around the heater pipes remain in place when installing.
verify that the seal is installed correctly, observe the seal from
inside the engine compartment. If the seal has leaks, apply a sealer
between the heater core pipes and the evaporator housing.
the hose pipe clamp and the bolt/screw. Unclamp the heater hoses.
Tighten the hose pipe clamp bolt/screw to 16 inch lbs. (1.8 Nm).
Install the heater core clamp and screw. Tighten the screw to 16 inch lbs. (1.8 Nm).
Install the heater module assembly cover and secure with the retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Refill the cooling system. Operate the engine and check for leaks, add coolant if necessary.