Re: need to replace steering arm on pass side on 1998
Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.
If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:
1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.
NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.
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the camber is set on these by the bushings (offset) in the spindle platform and the bushing at anchor point near other side of arm , generally its not repairable its replaceable ! the toe is set by the screw adjustments ball joints attached to rack and pinion steering module , also are you sure its not the wheel bent, use the spare tire to ck adjustments or move a back wheel up front and test it again
disconnect it from the outer tie rod, remove the boot from the steering rack , you will need a special tool to get at the inner rod cap, remove and install new , then get the car aligned, not an easy job and hard to get at
You need to check your front end very close. Start by making sure the ball joints and all 4 tie rod ends are tight, zero movement by hand. Also check the pittman arm, off the steering box and the idler arm, from the frame on passenger side. They should not have any play. Work all the tie rod ends on the drag link, which hooks them together. Sometimes the holes in it will wear. The tie rods shouldn't move in it. Have a look at the control arm bushings. If they are squished out and noticably cracked then they need to be replaced. Check both the uppers and lowers.
If that all checks out then the problem is wear in the steering box and that does have some adjustment but not really enough to take 2" of play without making other problems. You'll have to replace it. Hope this helps.
you can do the whole job with a large crescent wrench, hammer, and pliers. Loosen the lock nut but only loosen, remove the cotter pin (if present) and joint nut. Hit joint with hammer to separate from steering knuckle. unscrew tie rod end. Compare length to new end. You will want to keep the length from the nut to the center of the hub arm attach the same or you will need an alignment. Screw the new end on and adjust to the original length. Slip back into hub, replace and tighten net, repace cotter pin. Tighten lock nut and get an alignment if you aren't sure about length. OK? Any questions, let me know.
you need to do what i call a dry check i do before performing an alignment have someone sit in truck and shift steering wheel from side to side lightly while you look at steering components check for loose pitman arm,drag link if used inner tie rods outer tie rods or excessive play in steering box then jack up each front wheel and check upper and lower ball joints
Jack up one side at a time and pull and push on the tire to see if there is play on the inside or outside tie rods. There is a larger link on the passenger side bolted to the passenger side of the frame. While you check the passenger side of the tie rods you can see that part too! If the smaller parts look good then the pitman arm attached to the steering box should be hand checked with a helper moving the steering wheel 6 inches or so each way with the engine off. The steering wheel should not have more than 1/2" play within the gearbox.