Question about 1994 Buick Park Avenue

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Starting problem Car will not start with key but will "start and die" when jumpering starter. Removed ignition barrel assy and found broken wire. Repaired broken wire. Problem continued except now will continue to run after jumpering starter with key on. Will turn off with key but still will not turn over with key.

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  • rlhskh Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks for the help. The ignition switch was not a problem. It was a relay up under the dash that was involved in security system. Could not get power coming out of relay but relay activated as it should when turning on the key. Ended up routing around the relay.Every thing works as it should. Don't know why relay acted like this even after being replaced Main thing is I'm "back on the road". Thanks again

  • jefbnntt Feb 01, 2009

    car has a broken wire when I took out the barrel, can the wire be fixed or do I need to go to the dealer and buy a new one and try to have them match the code in my key? thanks jefbnntt@aol.com

  • Douglas Gibson Jul 03, 2013

    ho do you remove the barrel assy of 2004 doge ram pick-up truck

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Replace ignition switch

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

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My ignitin broke.I start the car by turning the key clockwise than turn the other portion the same way than it's start,but it's start jacking and loose power when driving.Can a broken key course this?


What is year--make--model? What other portion are you talking about?
Is the key broke or the ignition switch? Your key cylinder may be faulty?

Sometimes if the ignition will turn on, but, not crank the starter motor, I can use a jumper wire across the proper two terminals at the starter relay where applicable, and the vehicle will start. If you try anything like that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and the parking brake is set.

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Sounds like you have a wiring problem, check the plug connector and wiring that plugs into the ignition switch, look for discoloration or signs of over heating or melting, if ok , unplug the connector from the ignition switch and with 2 jumper wires you can hot wire you car, and test if it stays running, jump the hot wire to the coil wire, and jump the hot wire from the starter to ground until it starts up.

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In this situation I would check the starter motor solenoid, you are lucky the ECU did not fry cause it would cost more than the car is worth. Starter motor is not that expensive, also check all main relays and fuses. Check the wiring as well. If all fine the ignition coil and ignition barrell would be last. If it is possible plug a computer and run diagnostics too.

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So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

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2003 Chevy Impala 78,000 miles KEY WILL NOT TURN. - Car was running fine! - Turned off key. - Tried to restart and Key will Not Turn. It was jammed in the OFF position. - I removed ignition...


ur still in a security lock out with ignition[ key ] system u might have to have it towed to dealer for them to hook up vehicle[contact dealer and advise what is happening and also recheck new key] for reprograming or reset system..some vehicles if u try to start vehicle while in a security mode can get completely locked out of vehicle and if u replaced the whole ignition housing and not just the cylinder the housing is the reader the wiring that is around the housing cylinder tube is what reads the key and syncs with the vehicle if u put in a different one or the wiring is damaged vehicle wont start and will stay in security mode

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on the left side of barrel, look for a dowel, there should be a vary small opening that you can take something as small as a pinhead and push the dowel in ,while pushing in on dowel pull the barrel out.the key may need to also be in on position for removal. try that and see if it works. if not please repost your question. thank you for choosing fixya.com

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Part on my key snapped off in the ignition. What is the best way to get it out? Or do I need to replace the whole ignition?


Hi,
It's not all bad.
remove cowling and re-insert partial key.
Turn to the ACC/ intermediate key position .

The IGN barrell will be held in place by a location "***" on the IGN barrell in the lock assy.
Press this "***" while the key is in assy position and the Key/barrell should be able to be removed. The IGN barrell needs to be in the on/acc position in order to be removed for obvious reasons. Good Luck

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Hello, I take it you twist the key to start and nothing? I repaired my Postmans Vw with the same problem. Firstly it is common and the dealer way of solving is to replace the whole ignition barrel. However I went to Maplins bought a 10 amp push to make flush fitting switch and grafted it into the wire from the ignition switch that goes to the one You use to hot wire the starter you can fuse it too to be safe. Now he has a Vw that looks like the New Bmw Mini for push button starting.
There You Go! Problem solved.
Cheer's
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0)~[><

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