The car starts and runs, by using the test light the following fuses (in glove box) have no power flowing through them even though they are not blown.
TAIL (20) CTSY (20) STOP HAZ (20) INST LPS (5) CIG LTR (20) Circuit Breaker for (PWR ACC).
Headkights, parking lights, hazzards, blinkers, backup lights tail lights and brake lights, dome light and dash lights do not turn on or light up.
Fusible links off starter are OK.Can find no additional fuse box in engine compartment. What should I check next or what can be causing this?
Re: 1996 Buick Century - All Lights do not turn on
Follow all power source to the fuse panel over time road vibration
or even rust can this problem check to see if you have additional
fuses under your hush panel replace o one more thing checto see if your ignition module has good connection its by your cars fire wall.
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Look for a "3" Amp fuse on the Fuse Block as it will be singularly used for just the Clock and should be clearly marked "Clock." The Clock should have a Red wire running out of it to the Fuse Block to power it. The Clock is typically wired separately. The red wiring will not be in front as it goes into the wiring harness and in the back of the Fuse Block but if you want to hunt for the Clock wire that will be it running out of a segment of the harness heading for the location of your Clock.
If It is not blinking then it's probably a blown bulb, That's how cars tell you a turn signal is bad. You will only have power to fuse slot when turn signal is on and the blinking part runs through a flasher relay so you could have a bad flasher relay if the bulbs are all good.
Hi, CSTY is abbrevation for courtesy lamps. They can be interrior lamps in the dome, footwell, inside headspace front and rear, map lights, glove box , door jams/panels , under hood and trunk. First verify that all your lights are going off when the doors are closed and key is off. For trunk and under hood courtesy light, use the push switch to verify they do turn off. (I've had a few under hood lights short out and do that) Next would be to remove bulbs one at a time and monitor your battery. (Painstaking, but effective) other than that, you have a short somewhere, lights in the bottom corners of the doors can get moisture and usually corrode first. Good Luck! Mike
If the lights stay off, don't go on and off randomly, and include ceiling, glove box and door lights, it is most likely a fuse. These are located behind a plastic panel on the body that can be accessed when you open the front passenger door. The fuse descriptions should be on the inside of the panel. (There is a second fuse box under the hood inside a black box with a red handle and screw hold down). Find the appropriate fuse (interior lights or something like that) and using a fuse puller (little plastic tweezer device that grabs the fuse and makes it easy to remove) pull the fuse and hold it up to the light. If the metal strip inside is broken, melted or blackened, you need a new one of the same amp rating. There may be some extra ones on the panel, but never use a fuse with a higher rating number than the original fuse.
turn key on,and start by testing each fuse with a test light to see if you have power on both sides of the fuse, if you find no bad fuses,locate your blower motor under the dash and behind the glove box,find the two wires going to it and check with your test light for power,if you have power there replace motor,if you don't follow the motor wire where they plug into a resistor"about 12 inches away",and replace the resistor.
To know for sure you need to do parasitic draw testing ! Not looking for a magical fix on here . has anyone ran into any issues that may cause drain, like glove box light switch etc,???? In my thrity years of repairing vehicles have seen a lot of thing's cause this problem .Back in the 80's when i first started at chevy dealer saw glove boxes stuff full ,to the point light would stay on . These day's more like a module not powering down when it's suppose to. Hooking up a amp meter between the neg. battery post and neg. cable an checking amp draw. If it's over 80 miliamps you have a draw on the electrical system. Pulling fuse's till the draw goes away . find what all that fues powers and isolate the different circuits till the draw goes away . That's kind of the long way now a days . There is a much easier way ,voltage drop testing accross the fuse's . The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
Take the glove box out. Behind the fuse box you will find a big gob of black tape, (it looks like a box shape all taped up. Take the tape off and you will find three inline fuse holders taped together. The AC fuse is the 10 amp one.