a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten to final torque the front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.
Remove the stabilizer bar link retaining nut and disconnect the link from the strut.
CAUTION: Do not allow the halfshaft to move outboard. Over extension of the CV joint may result in the separation of internal parts, causing failure of the joint.
Remove the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. If required, slightly spread the steering knuckle to ease the removal of the strut. Pry down on the lower control arm and roll the strut base out of the knuckle. Do not pry on the halfshaft, as damage may result. Wire the steering knuckle up to prevent the halfshaft from moving outboard.
Partially lower the vehicle.
Support the strut assembly and remove the top three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
CAUTION: The strut assembly is under spring tension. Attempting to disassemble the strut without properly compressing the spring can result in injury.
Using a suitable spring compressing tool, slightly compress the strut spring to relieve initial tension. Loosen the upper rod nut. Continue to compress the spring until the tension is relieved. Remove the upper rod nut.
Remove all upper mounting parts, coil spring, and coil spring isolators from the strut and save them for reassembly. Carefully note the position of each part during removal to ensure proper reassembly. Inspect each part for wear and damage as it is removed.
CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation. NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly.
NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise.
Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
Dust Boot (Part of 18045)
Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket Nut (3 Req'd)
Front Shock Absorber Nut
Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket
Front Suspension Bearing and Seal
Front Coil Spring
Front Spring Insulator
Front Shock Absorber
Tighten to 35-40 Nm (25-30 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 Lb-Ft)
CAUTION: Do not over tighten the lock nut; damage to the lock nut or piston rod could result.
Install new rod lock nut and tighten it to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
Remove the spring compressing tool.
Position the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35-40 Nm (25-30 lb-ft).
Partially raise the hoist.
Position the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
Position the stabilizer link to the strut assembly and install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The lower ball joint is integral to the lower control assembly and cannot be serviced individually. Any movement of the lower ball joint detected as a result of inspection requires replacement of the lower control arm assembly.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the nut and bolt securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut and bolt securing the control arm to the vehicle sub frame.
Install the control arm assembly to the vehicle sub-frame using the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm).
Install the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle and secure it with the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. (43-59 Nm).
Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower the vehicle.
Wheel and tire assemblyBrake caliper and secure it out of the way with a piece of mechanic-s wire. Do not let the caliper hang on the hose.Brake rotorHalfshaft retaining nut and discard itCotter pin and castellated nut from the tie rod end and separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a suitable removal tool. Discard the cotter pin.Separate the tie rod end from the wheel knuckleABS sensor bolt and the sensor, if equippedStrut mounting nuts and the studs which attach the strut assembly to the steering knuckleStrut from the steering knuckleLower ball joint pinch bolt. Carefully pry down on the lower control arm to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.Wheel hub, knuckle and bearing assembly from the vehicle
Hope this helps and please don't forget to rate! Thank you!
Front ball joint with heat shield
Remove and Replace-
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the ball joint heat shield.
Remove and discard the lower ball joint cotter pin.
Remove the ball joint nut.
Loosen, but do NOT remove, the stabilizer shaft bushing assembly bolts.
Separate the ball joint from the strut/knuckle assembly using ball joint/tie rod puller J-35917 or equivalent.
Do NOT damage the halfshaft boots when drilling out the ball joint rivets.
Drill out the rivets retaining the ball joint to the knuckle strut assembly and remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Use a 1/8 in. drill bit. Refer to the instructions in the ball joint replacement kit.
Position the lower ball joint in the strut/knuckle assembly.
Install the four ball joint bolts and nuts, as shown in the ball joint kit and tighten to specifications.
Install the ball joint-to-lower control arm. Install a new ball joint-to-lower control arm nut.
Tighten the stabilizer shaft bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
For 1988-91 vehicles, tighten the ball joint-to-lower control arm nut 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus at least an additional 90° (11/2flats), plus enough to align the cotter pin hole. Do NOT overtighten.
For 1992-96 vehicles, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). Tighten to align the next slot in the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Do NOT tighten more than 60° (1 flat) to align with the hole.
Install a new cotter pin.
Position the ball joint heat shield and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
Install the front wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper suspension operation
Removal & Installation
This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel
Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
Outer tie rod retaining nut
Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
Lower ball joint retaining nut
Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
Steering knuckle from the vehicle
Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
Install or connect the following:
Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
Tire and wheel
Lower the vehicle
Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
Please be mindful to carefully note the position of the old parts as you disassemble the suspension, then follow these steps to do the re-installation:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove and discard the tension strut-to-control arm nut, then pull off the dished washer.
When separating the control arm from the steering knuckle, do not use a hammer. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.
5. Remove and discard the control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a small prybar, spread the pinch joint slightly, then separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. A drift punch may be used to remove the bolt, but be very careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward, or the tripod CV-joint internal parts could separate, causing failure of the joint.
6. Remove and discard the lower control arm inner pivot bolt and nut.
7. Remove the lower control arm from the frame and the tension strut.
Make sure the front washer is at the strut-to-lower control arm attachment.
8. Insert the strut into the inner bushing.
9. Position the lower control arm into the subframe bracket, using a new nut and bolt. Tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).
10. Assemble the lower control arm ball joint stud to the steering knuckle, making sure the ball stud groove is positioned properly. Be very careful not to damage the lower control arm seal.
11. Insert a new pinch bolt and nut, then tighten to 40-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
12. Clean the strut threads to remove dirt and/or debris.
13. Install the dished washer, with its dished side away from the control arm bushing. Install a new nut on the strut and tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).
14. Install the wheel and tire assembly, tightening the lug nuts to 85-105 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm), then carefully lower the vehicle.
here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.
please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.
Removal & Installation
Apply the brakes and hold in place.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
Release the brakes.
Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
Remove the tie rod heat shield.
Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.
I don't see a question here... You know what's bent... Replace it, and have the front end aligned after you're done!!! Replacing is just a take it out, put a new one back in. No tricks etc!!! Good luck