- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
When replacing a Peugeot 207 rear wheel brake cylinder, the Workshop Manual recommends that once the drum has been removed, the brake pipe disconnected from the cyclinder, and the cylinder retaining bolt removed, the upper brake shoe return spring should be removed to allow the cyclinder to be withdrawn from its mounting position.
It is not neccessary to remove the upper brake shoe return spring (tricky to do and even more difficult to put back) - just raise the handbrake (emergency brake) lever a few clicks until the ends of the brake shoes are clear of the cylinder. The cylinder can then be manoeuvred over the upper return spring.
disconnect the front and rear brake lines, undo bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster. Bench bleed the new master and reconnect to booster and reconnect lines. Be very careful when undoing the lines from the master cyclinder as you do not want to damage them. Soak with WD-40 before loosening. Once everything is back in place you will need to bleed all calipers and/or wheel cylinders. Again soak the bleeder screws beforehand with WD-40 as they break off easily.
It sounds like you have air in your brake lines. This is usually caused by a very low brake fluid in the master cyclinder. To fix this problem fill up the master cyclinder with brake fluid and bleed the front wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Keep the master cyclinder topped up with brake fluid. Then bleed the rear wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid in the master cyclinder.
There are no o rings as this is a flare fitting.Make sure that your rear shoe to drum adjustment is proper, as the wheel cylinder will continue to leak, if the travel is too far. this can be caused by a froze up self adjuster mechanism. Hope this helps. Plese contact with any more questions.
the master cyclinder is divided into diagonal wheels. meaning that each line from the master cyclinder provides fluid to a front wheel and rear wheel. on the front resevoir of the master cyclinder it would be perhaps the left front and right rear brake for example. you need to block the lines going to the rear wheels independently and then bleed the brakes again starting with the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder.
remove rear wheel remove brake drum remove brake line from wheel cyl.remove least amount of tension springs and shoe assembally as possible then remove the 2 bolts that hold the cyl in place the bolts are on each side of brake line.then follow directions in reverse to install new one.hint if you're not really used to doing drum brakes ONLY TEAR DOWN 1 SIDE AT A TIME INCASE YOU FORGET WHICH WAY SOME OF THE SPRINGS OR CABLE GOES BACK YOU WILL HAVE ANOTHER SIDE TO LOOK AT FOR A GUIDE.when you have them back on you'll need to bleed all air from the system. hope i helped.
1. You could have air in the lines yet, but more specifically, I would need to know if you have anti-skid system in your car. Also, you may have a proporation valve in the system that has to be activitated before the system can be bled.
In bleeding, you start at the rear wheels first and then work to the front, doing the master cyclinder last.
Finally, the brake master cyclinder is designed so that the front part of the cylinder pumps fluid to only one front wheel and only one rear wheel. The rear part of the master cylinder only pumps fluid to the other 1 front and 1 rear. This is so that if you loose your brakes, you will always have a rear and front working.