Question about 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited Sedan

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Steering pull and tire wear

Seems the car suffers from pulling to left, also tires showing wear on inside edge like camber problems. dealer says the alignment is ok but print out shows to much neg camber for me on left rear at .72 deg and right at .32 deg also it wanders on flat sections. with road crown on left in high speed lanes you have to keep wheel slightly turned left to stay in lane. if you let go of the wheel you change lanes quickly. print out dosent show caster and dont know the value but it makes me suspicious. gonna fight this problem under the lemon law its just not right .i found a article about lexus m35 i think describing what they consider pull is if you let go of the wheel and you change lanes in 7 seconds they consider that a problem . they even have a tsb about it covering ho wto test for it with a pull meter and all hahaha

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  • kysor Dec 31, 2008

    sorry you have to turn wheel right slightly to stay in left lane

  • kysor Jan 01, 2009

    yep the toe is .4 and .5 so that is not an issue . what i really need to know is what the prefered alignment settings should be for the vehicle. many articles call for settings of camber to not be off more than .50 deg from left to right pos or neg . havent been able to find any noticible damage from a previous accident.

  • kysor Jan 02, 2009

    thundergod thats my idea also trying to find a shop like that isnt easy. but i will try .i have been fixing cars and trucks for 30 years and its not easy finding someone who can diagnose a problem instead of just replacing parts.all the newbies just learn to follow the computer and take what it says as gospel.

  • kysor Jan 03, 2009

    just visited my local hyundai parts man and he was quite helpful.

    he let me read through the sonata maintanence manual. got the alignment specs i needed boy they couldnt be more diffrent than iol and water. seems buy factory spec my rear camber on the left is off by 40 deg neg. the print out from the shop was at 72 deg and fact calls for max of + or - 30 .no wonder we have some inner tire wear.funny part was dealer machine says 72 deg is within tollerance.also still have no caster setting to go by dealer keeps refusing to give that setting on printouts. something dont pass the sniff test here . ok onward and attack going to get a disintrested party to evaluate the alignment like you said preferably a frame shop .

  • kysor Jan 03, 2009

    yeah i know that but the factory gives you the data for a reason if its out of range there must be something wrong that needs to be fixed. one thing i read in the book was make sure you take the measurements between the axel and spindle on both sides to see if its equal. Ohhhhhhhh right how many techs are gonna do that reminda me of the day using the old mirror machines and having to move the car over to center to do the proper alignment so the car wouldnt dog walk ;=


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If professional alignment does not straighten out alignment & tire wear, you can "tinker" with the settings to straighten it out. Caster is pre-set & non adjustable. You did not mention toe-in.(which more often causes wear. If the steering wheel is not horizontal it shows a possible toe-in problem, as can wandering. What condition are the tie rod ends and ball joints? Be sure everything is tight before doing anything else. If you make any changes, make small ones, write everything down and use good reference marks that will not wear off. Once a small change is made, drive for a while & check tire wear often.
You are correct in persuing this matter, but If you did not buy the car new, even a minor previous accident could throw the body out of whack enough to give problems like you are having.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • Richard Scordino Jan 01, 2009

    I don't have specs for your vehicle at hand, BUT Any experienced alignment man knows that when "properly" adjusted, some vehicles will just not go straight. Going over a pothole,or striking a curb etc at just the right angle (minor accidents), can put a slight bend in front-end components that you sometimes can't see unless you remove the component and match it to a new one. That's when a good alignment guy uses his knowledge instead of just following specs. (doing the same thing over and over never gets you further than the first result) What I've found is that newer techs tend to follow what the machine tells them, as if it's written in stone. There are ways of changing the outcome but it depends upon the knowledge level of the tech, available time and a willingness to go outside normal parameters to achieve a satisfactory result.That takes a bit of creative thinking as well as a complete knowledge of how and why everything works, not just "painting by the numbers" Otherwise, you will just have to learn to live with the problem!!!
    Get a second opinion from a good alignment specialty shop (best are ones that do lots of work for body shops, where problems like yours are expected and not unusual! You may get better results!

  • Richard Scordino Jan 03, 2009

    Caster is pre set and non adjustable. (I know...stupid) In attempting to change caster on pre-set cars I've "cheated" at times by removing trailing arms or control arms and actually putting my own shims where there weren't any, and was not supposed to be any. In one case, I actually cut a mount off and used a piece of steel between it and the chassis, to get where I wanted to be. (sometimes I get crazy)I no longer do any repair work except for an ocasional job here and there, often just to meet the challenge of what no one else wants to figure out (probably why I do this on-line thing as well)
    Anyhow, that's why there is no caster info!


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