Possible caliper problem on 07 G6 brakes; noise but pads ok
Sound is mostly in driver's rear; pulled tire; brake pads look fine; rotors showing some rust/typical for outside winter weather recently in ohio; rotors don't turn freely and calipers appear to be grabbing excessively. Can't tell if rotor is warped or not since I don't want to take anything off, still under warranty bumper to bumper. Went to on-line sites saying dealers will try to get you to pay for new pads and rotors, which is bad since milage on mine is only 25,000. I haven't called a delear yet but don't want to be "taken to the cleaners" if I do. Also, feel GM should warrent all this. I have 36M b-t-bumper + bought a couple extra years. Any advice?
Re: possible caliper problem on 07 G6 brakes; noise but...
Call the dealer where you bought the car from, tell them exactly what is happening, if the caliper is the problem it should be under base warranty, although the dealer may make you pay for the pads, they are a non warranty item, the rotor should be covered also if the caliper is the problem. get it in writing before any work is done. I would push for the pads to be covered since it was caused by the caliper. dont back down.
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I believe I would check the rear Brakes. Your truck most likely has rear disc brakes. and most likely has an automatic transmission. Which means you never or rarely use your parking brake. I see it all the time. parking brake which is a drum brake under/inside and part of the rear rotor. It could also be a rear brake issue.Remove the rear tire, and look over the brake rotor and the pads. If everything looks ok there (rotor is smooth looking on the inner and outer face. they are not rusted and pitted. or gouged) pad has brake materiel of at least 1/8". if that looks ok then remove the caliper and look at the parking brake shoes and hardware. i see a lot of the shoes brake material comes loose from the backing. which will cause noise, vibration, sometimes wheel lock up.
Look through the openings in your front wheels and look at the front rotors-are they gouged up? You are probably running metal-to-metal, pads to rotors. Chances are real good your rotors will have to be replaced along with new pads, but if you catch it early enough you might be able to have them machined, although nowadays that is hardly easy to get done and the savings usually is not as significant as it once was.
probably a dumb question, but if there is a backing plate, did you make sure it isnt bent and hitting the rotor? you never want to sand new rotors, although i dont think it would cause this concern. i would suggest lightly scuffing up the brake pads. this will eliminate any noise caused by the contact of the rotors and pads. if it goes away then you know its a problem with the pads/rotors.
scoring of only the inside rotors would make me think that possibly the caliper slides are frozen up. make sure they move quite freely on the slides. it is not uncommon for brake pads to score rotors though.
but brake noises at low speeds that dont' change when applying light brake pressure are usually some sort of metal or something contacting the rotor.
Sounds like you have a brake problem. Pull the tire off and see if there is brake fluid on the rotors,shoes , pads (which ever item is applicable) if so trace the leak probably a caliper or wheel cylinder( which ever is applicable). Check brake lines and hoses for,bends cuts and swelling. Whatever you replace do the same on the opposite side. Good luck
1. The Caliper is sticking open, causing the friction which equals the pulling; and the brake pads and rotors to be eaten frequently.
a. The Caliper is faulty.
b. The Brake Line Hose (if so equipped) going from Brake Line to the Caliper is faulty.
A. To Check which one is faulty:
B. Raise and Support properly the rear of the vehicle.
C. Remove the tires from both sides.
D. Inspect the brake springs and brake pad retainers (if so equipped) Missing or improperly placed springs and/or brake pad retainers (if so equipped) could possibly cause this also.
E. Using a 6-inch (or larger) "C"-clamp, place the top end of the "C"-clamp onto the back of the caliper. Do not place it on the Brake Line/Hose or the Brack Line connection to the Caliper. Place the screw end of the "C"-clamp onto the center portion of the outside Brake Pad, but not touching the Caliper Housing. Begin screwing-in the clamp, this will move the Brake Pad in, and push the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore. If this is difficult to do, then that is your first sign that the Caliper is "sticking open".
If you are not sure how easy or hard this should be: Move to the Right Side of the vehicle and Clamp-in the right rear Caliper to get an idea of how easy/difficult it should feel. Compare the feel.
If the Left Rear Caliper is difficult to reset:
(1) Place a tight fitting Hose over the nipple of Bleeder Screw, located on the back of the Caliper. Do not cover the nut sides.
(2) Loosen the Bleeder Screw until fluid starts coming out.
(3) Reattempt to Clamp-in the brake.
(4) If it is now alot easier to Clamp-in, then it is the Brake Line Hose going from the Brake Line to the Caliper that is most likely faulty.
The Brake Hoses wear out on the inside, causing "gate-like" frayings. The fluid can flow out to the Caliper, but once the Brake Pedal is released these "gates" close, not allowing the fluid to return-out of the caliper. The Caliper maintains pressure on the Rotor causing the pulling of the vehicle and the wear-and-tear of the Rotor and Pads.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information, problems, or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
first check condition of discs and pads if all is good drive and pull up handbrake slowly to see if its the handbrake shoes making the noise if still a problem will most probably be rear wheel bearings