Re: My dad washed my engine and I have had electrical...
The dc motor that moves your seat is stuck in reverse or the other way and it is drainging your battery. one way to fine out if it is the motor, unplug the dc motor connector. this connector is located under the seat that is stuck. another way is to look in hood relay box and remove the fuel that feels that dc motor.
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Did you have the alternator checked? When the battery light comes on, it indicates either the battery is very bad and is draining power from the system, or the alternator is not providing enough voltage to keep the battery charged.
Once you have the electrical problem taken care of, and the system is getting proper voltage, you can see if you continue to have problems with the engine performance. (The crankshaft position sensor has nothing to do with battery charging)
1. IF you have been driving it then the alternator may not be providing the power needed, the system is drawing on the battery and the battery is not being charged either when the engine is running. You should have the alternator checked.
2. If you alternator is good and the car has just been left sitting and the battery has drained then you have an excessive electrical load drawing power from the battery whilst the car is turned off. . It does not take much to drain your battery so you cannot start the car in just a day or less. A power widow motor or power seat motor that has power switched to it because the switch is bad is enough to run down the battery leaving you with insufficient power to start the car.
If the lights are dim when the car is running, it is not charging well. Who tested the alternator? Is the alternator well grounded to the engine? I think those older alternators required a ground strap around the alternator mounting.
Though I suspect the problem is not a drain, the way to find the drain on this car is to disconnect one battery cable and put a voltmeter between the cable and the battery terminal. If it is draining, you will see 12.6 volts on the meter. If you see only 3 or 4 volts, it is not draining.
(note that this technique does not work on newer cars with computers, and some dash clocks can confound this test)
Assuming that you see full battery voltage, start pulling fuses until the voltage showing on the meter drops. When that happens, you are on the right track. At least you will know what fuse to pull at night to keep it from draining.
You either have a bad battery or a bad alternator. Most alternator shops and Advance auto parts store will check both for free. It is possible for an alternator to charge the battery while the car is running but kill it when it is switched off because of a bad diode in the alternator.
something is draining the battery while the ignition switch is off. there are some things which remain on, but their drain is supposed to be very low. get an ammeter, which measures current, and remove the positive battery cable and place the ammeter between the battery post and the battery cable. there should be some very small amount of flow. now pull the fuses one by one while someone is watching the ammeter for you. eventually you will pull a fuse and the current drain will go down to almost nothing. that will be the fuse on which the offending circuit or doodad resides. now put the fuse back in and begin disabling each doodad until you hit the one which is causing the high current drain. typical things are autolocking mechanisms, lights which do not go off in trunks, under hoods, glove boxes.
It sounds like an Alternator problem.
Remember the Battery only Starts the vehicle and runs nominal operations. The Alternator actually provides the electricity to run the Engine operations. With that being said: Start the vehicle, jump start it if you have to. Remove the Negative Cable from the Battery or remove the jumper cables. If the Engine dies after doing this, the Alternaotr is bad and needs to be replaced. When the Alternator begins to die, it starts draining the Battery. During normal operation it is the Alternator that sends a small trickle charge back to the Battery keeping it charged-up.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Check engine light is tripped by the #2 02 sensor. If the cat converter fails to clean up excess emmisions it turns on the light
Seat won't move- Chk for an obstruction in the tracks.
The alarm system-Watch itand wait for it to go off to make sure nothing is disturbing it. If it is motion sensitive, the cooking fan coming on can or may do it because of voltage chages when it kicks on.
Battery - check the charging voltage at the battery-- should be between 13.6 to 14.2 at an idle. This, if not righ, can cause the battery to not charge deep enough and can affect yor alsrm system. The battery needs to be 90% up to par to keep any electronics stable. Check for a draw on the batteryby removing rthe ground cable and watching for a spark when you touch it to the post. If there is a spark, something is on and and it needs to be located. Chances are it's the alarm system.
If your battery isn't charging correctly or is defective, The condition will affect the discharge rate. being it has no seep charge to start with.
If you have a good battery and it is draining to the point of not starting in an hour, you have a serious drain on the battery! I would first test the charging system to be sure it is working properly, 13.7 to 15.1 volts with the engine running.
Next, I would put a current meter inline with the battery (engine & ignition OFF) and see what the drain is. Don't do this if you are not familiar with measuring current drain, as you can easily destroy your meter. Based on the amount of this drain, I would move to the fuse panel and remove fuses an look for the same drain. This will tell us which system the fault is in.
What initiated the need for jump starting? Is the alternator charging? Has the battery been checked?
To check the alternator, once the engine has been jumped and is running, remove one of the battery post connections. If the engine dies, the alternator is not charging the battery, and the symptoms you describe are the on-board computer going through low voltage spasms until sufficient electrical power to operate the engine / tranny is drained and the car dies.
If the car continues to run with no battery attached, the alternator is charging - - - and I would recommend removing the battery and having it checked and (if good) recharged to full capacity. I would also recommend having it charged even if the alternator is the problem just to delay the onset of the low voltage problems. The car should operate normally for a few miles before the battery drains too low after a full recharge, enabling you to get it to a shop for alternator service / replacement.
If you attempt replacing the alternator yourself, make sure the battery is disconnected prior to starting the job. Saves blowing up good stuff by accidental short.