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Re: brake bleeding audi 80 1992
Generally you can bleed any system by following this method: Start at r/r wheel, then l/r, r/f l/f. Break each bleeder loose, attach a twelve inch piece of clear plastic tubing to it (I use fish tank air supply hose) If hose diameter is too small, generally putting it in a pot of hot water will allow you to strech it over bleeder end.Put the other end in a small jar with about an inch or two of clean fluid in it Keep the hose end submerged at all times while doing this procedure.. When you open the bleeder, fluid should begin to run through tube. (if not, sometimes GENTLY putting some pressure on pedal will start it flowing. Keep the jar below the item you are bleeding...gravity will do the rest. When no further air comes through the line, close bleeder and repeat on each wheel. While doing this, keep master cylinder full with cap open. When finished, make sure fluid level is full and close it up. If you have further problems, you may need to inspect all hydraulic components. Generally, since your brake system is essentially "sealed" just changing pads does not require bleeding to make system functional. Changing fluid and bleeding is a good maintenence procedure because brake fluid is hygroscopic (it tends to draw moisture from the air) which causes internal rusting of calipers, wheel cylinders etc. Good luck
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i dont know what this car is but it sounds like you need to adjust the rear brakes and also there may be air still in the sytem, there are many cars that cross brake systems so if you are working on the left rear wheel you would also need to bleed the right front wheel, heres what i would do make sure to fill the brake fluid and always keep an eye on the level as you are bleeding the brakes, start at the right rear wheel and bleed it a few times then move to the left rear wheel, bleed that then go to the right front and bleed that one and last is the left front and that should solve ant air in the system problem, also make sure there are no leaks in any of the brake lines. good day.
your probably going to have to bleed the entire system.1st try & bleed the master cyl. basicly the same as you would bleed the front/rear brakes. pump pedal & hold while someone loosen the brake line on the master cyl. after m/c is bleed move to r/r,l/r,r/f,l/f wheels in that order. if you have abs brakes & you got air in the pump a scan tool may be needed to bleed properly.
ok there are a few things you need to check.. you said you changed the master cylinder.. did you bleed the braking system after???
remove from wheel,,
locate bleed valve on caliper / or unscrew one of the lines
pump brake and push right down and hole,,
repeat plugging the lines with your finger ,,
repeat the above 2 steps a few times
tighten the bleed screw while holding the brake right down..
if that fails ...
if that fails try adjusting the brake up.. its on the rear tires,, remove one and them remove the shield protecting the brake shoe,, see the turn bolt that adjust the pistons,, adjust that a bit until the brake is in the desired position..
For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!
You must still have air in one of the pipes - not necessaryily only to the wheel you have been working on (though normally that is so). Did youu make sure that the fluid level remained above minimum in the brake fluid master cylinder while you were bleeding the brakes? Possibly a slurp of air went in there and now the other pipes will need bleeding too. Don't panic - just bleed all the brake pipes, making sure that the master cylinder level stays high.
You will need to bleed all four corners, starting at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Your bleed procedure always goes from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, to the closest. By bleeding only the rear brakes, you've gotten air out back there, but not necessarily any air that might have moved farther forward. Bleed your rears again, and then move forward to bleed the fronts, and see if that helps.
I have taken the brake caliper of the rear passenger side and renewed the seals in it i have also renewed the brake pads in that wheel i have tried to bleed it before renewing the pads in the outherside but when i open the bleed nipple and push the peddle down there is no braked fluid coming out i also renewed the nipple.When you take the brake pipe off the caliper ther is still no fluid coming out also there is no pressure on the pedal 1997 audi a4 1800