Question about Ford Escort

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Hi there i having a great deal of trouble getting my oil sump off on my escort ive took all the bolt out but there a bracket that stoppin it from comin down

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I replaced theunit that attaches to the can sensor and now my iol light comes on and tappits making noise like crazy full of oil
is pump not working

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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End of that bracket is another bolt....careful of oil pump drive shaft now as you take the assembly down..good luck

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

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I have to lower the front crossmember to remove the oil pan. Is there any precautions I should know about? It is on 2004 jeep liberty 4x4


no engine stated, they even have diesel. or 3.7L GAS.
I toss my first coil, land on 3.7L V6.
great question, like the very first ever.
most just do it and get in trouble. vast posts in this.
but whats up, what is wrong, what part failed.?
this is best to know, so we can send you the official chapter on this from jeep.
sure use jackstands, never jacks only and never bricks .
04,KJ jeep 4wd pan off.
in chapter 9 ,under diagnostics, and pan leaks. that?
it says read
Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL). page 1555 (3.7L)
and i quote:
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove front wheel assemblies.
5. Remove skid plate (if equipped). (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT SKID
PLATE - REMOVAL)
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Mark adjustment cam position of front lower control
arm bolts.
8. Remove front lower control arm bolts. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
REMOVAL)
9. Disconnect LH tie rod. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - REMOVAL)
10. Disconnect LH lower ball joint (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/LOWER BALL JOINT -
REMOVAL)
11. Disconnect LH strut clevis (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/CLEVIS BRACKET - REMOVAL)
12. Remove LH front axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
13. Remove front axle brace bolts.
14. Remove front prop shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
15. Drain front axle.
16. Using a transmission jack, support front axle.
17. Remove axle bracket bolts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - REMOVAL)
18. With RH axle still in place, remove front differential.
19. Remove transmission oil cooler line bracket.
20. Remove engine to transmission stiffening bracket.
21. Position Special Tool 8534 on fender lip and align the slots in the brackets with the fender mounting holes.
22. Secure brackets to the fender using four M6 X 1.0 X 25 MM flanged cap screws.
23. Tighten the thumbscrews to secure the sleeves to the support tube.
24. Secure the support tube in an upright position.
25. Assemble the flat washer, thrust bearing, hook and T handle.
26. Using the M10 X 1.75 mm flanged nut supplied with the support fixture, secure the chain to the front engine
lifting stud.
27. Loosen engine mounts.
28. Remove oil pan bolts.
29. Seperate oil pan (1) from engine.
30. Move oil pan to one side, remove oils sump bolt and windage tray bolts,
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come
out with oil pan.
end quote, (off)

Nov 30, 2016 | 2004 Jeep Liberty

3 Answers

I have a 2001 chevy astro van, all wheel drive. How do you change oil pan no one has a book for it


looks like a tough job ahead

taking the sump off ?...motor in the engine bay

could try undoing plenty and lift the body up

if you cant get clearance under neath with motor in the engine bay
motor will have to come out


if trying with motor in the engine bay
lots of drive train in the way ..
undo engine mounts
support the motor .... even lift motor a bit
for clearance from steering gear and chassis ,suspension etc
to get the sump off



cant tell if it covers AWD
2001 Chevrolet Astro Manuals



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Nov 09, 2016 | 2001 Chevrolet Astro

2 Answers

Where Is The Oil Pump Located>? And How Do I Replace The Oil Pump


Here you go. BIG Job!

http://www.ehow.com/how_4506339_replace-oil-pump-ford-taurus.html

The oil pump is an essential piece of equipment that keeps your Ford Taurus running. It lubricates the engine by keeping the oil circulating. Without this lubrication, the engine wouldn't run. An oil pump is usually located in the oil pan. If you want to change the oil pump and replace it with a new one, roll up your sleeves and get ready for some dirty work.

How to Check if an Oil Pump Is Bad

Things You'll Need




  • Wrench



  • New oil pump



  • New A/C bolts

Remove Old Oil Pump


  1. Drive your Ford Taurus up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels so they don't roll. In addition, set the emergency break firmly into position so the car doesn't roll.


  2. Take the engine out and put it on an engine stand then remove the upper intake manifold. Take off the valve covers then the accessory drive belt.


  3. Remove the power steering pump and the alternator. The water pump is the next component to remove, followed by the A/C compressor and bracket.


  4. Rotate the pulley shaft clockwise to remove the crankshaft pulley. It has left-handed threads.

  5. Pull out the oil pan and the oil pump screen and tube. Take off the front cover and the timing chains and remove the crankshaft timing gears. Finally, remove the oil pump, taking note of the bolts you removed and in which order you remove them.

Insert New Oil Pump


  1. Install the new oil pump and put the bolts back on in the same manner you removed them. Tighten these bolts to 71 to 106 in-lb.


  2. Reinsert the crankshaft timing gears, timing chains and front cover. Put the oil pump screen and tube back on, torquing the bolts to 71 to 106 in-lb, and torque the nut to 15 to 22 ft-lb.

  3. Put the oil pan back in, then the crankshaft pulley. Install the A/C compressor and bracket using new bolts for the A/C. Add the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, the accessory drive belt, valve covers and upper intake manifold.


  4. Replace the engine back into your Ford Taurus and fill the crankcase. Start your engine and look for leaks in the area you were working.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4506339_replace-oil-pump-ford-taurus.html

Aug 06, 2015 | 2004 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Change transmission fluid vehicle


Hi Dee Dee, you have a very messy job ahead of you, in Australia GM did away with drain plugs in the transmissions, Start with a service kit, this is a sump gasket and oil filter, you have to loosen the sump bolts starting from 1 corner, allow 1 corner or the sump to come down this will control where the oil comes out of the sump making it easier to catch the old oil, less mess, when oil is finished draining remove the remaining bolts and remove pan, At this point it is advisable to change the filter (hence the kit) because you must replace the sump gasket

Jan 05, 2014 | 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500HD

1 Answer

How does one remove the sump from the Rocam engine of a 2005 Ford Bantam pickup?


    1.Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels
    2.Raise the front of the vehicle, both sides
    3.Removes the front wheels
    4.Remove the both side ball joint bolts and lift the suspension of the ball joint using a steel bar or similar,
    5.Remove both inner cv joints from the vehicle
    6.Remove the battery and the plastic battery housing;
    7.Remove the air intake pipe
    8.Drain the oil from the sump
    9.Remove the resonator from the gearbox, hydraulic hose from the gearbox, reverse gear switch, speedo cable.
    10.Remove the two bell housing bolts on the top (next to the cylinder head). Take one bolt to a local tools and hardware and source the exact thread bolt but buy bolts that are approx 5/6cm longer - buy 5 bolts to be safe. Replace the two bolts removed with the longer ones.
    11.Remove the starter motor and power cables;
    12.Remove the bolt above the starter motor and insert a long bolt here
    13.Next remove all bolts mounting the sump,
    14.At the back of the engine (side where the manifold is) remove all bolts and insert one long bolt. Note none of the long bolts should be mounted into the oil pan (sump).
    15.Use a support bar to support the engine and gearbox assembly (I made one using a steel pipe and bolted this onto the engine strut bolts;
    16.Using a 17 socket and long extension remove the gearbox mounting (3 nuts), Lower the gearbox side of the engine so that the mounting bolts clear the engine mounting;
    17.Insert a large screw driver or similar between the engine and gearbox assembly and separate them (note most gearbox will separate itself);
    18.You will notice a +/- 4 to 5 cm space between but the gearbox and engine is still joined together by the longer bolts.
    19.Using a long 8mm "t" socket as shown below, insert this between the fly wheel and onto the sump bolt (x2) and remove them. Using a normal 8mm spanner / socket remove all other sump bolts. The sump can now be removed from the vehicle.
    20.[Information for using a 8mm special tool: note that the Gedore 8mm or similar will not work between the fly wheel and sump]. I had bought a cheap small 8mm socket {it comes 8mm, 10mm and 12mm in a three way small socket - cost about R12} I cut off the 8mm from this and joined a long steel rod to it and also a handle which made is a "special" T socket spanner, similar to the image below.
    21.Install in reverse order as described above.

one-remove-sump-from-rocam-engine-2005-j5ekklqbg0r4og3swv24qsbc-4-0.png

May 13, 2013 | 2005 Ford Bantam 1.3i

1 Answer

How do I remove oil pan / sump?


AutoZone has free repair manuals online. I would guess you are just dealing with a sticking gasket. If it does need help you should find separate holes that are threaded on the pan.

May 04, 2013 | Hyundai Motor 2002 Elantra

1 Answer

How do I change my oil on my 98 ford escort zx2


Try this.

On level ground, jack up the front of the car and support it with axle stands.

Get an open container that will take more than 5 ltrs.

Under the engine block you will find the sump.

On the sump you should find a 13mm nut, this is the drain plug.

Undo the drain plug and have the empty container directly below the sump plug.

Retain the sump plug and clean it with a rag.

When the oil has drained out of the sump, put back the plug making sure the washer is in good condition and the plug is tight.

Now unscrew the oil filter having the old oil container below the filter housing to catch any oil.

Wipe around the the filter housing to remove any and all old oil.

Now offer up the new oil filter but do not tighten.

If the new filter fits the oil filter housing, then remove it and lightly oil the rubber seal on the filter with clean oil.

Now refit the filter and tighten it up. Not too tight, you can do this by hand but get it as tight as you can.

Now lower the car to to the ground.

At the top of the engine you will find an oil filler cap. Undo this cap.

Now put in the new oil to just below the full mark on the dip stick. Let the oil drain through the engine to the sump for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level.

If the level is between 1/2 and full, replace the filler cap and start the engine.

Now look at the oil filter and the sump plug for any leaks. Also check around the oil filler cap for oil leaks and spillage.

With the engine turned off. Clean any oil spillages and tighten up the oil filter, sump and oil filler cap as required.

Now leave the oil to drain back to the sump for a few minutes.

Check the oil level and top up as required.

I find that it is best to top the oil up to just below the Max mark.

This should solve the problem.

Ray



Aug 01, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Removing a sump pan


you drain as much engine oil from them sump as you can by undoing the 13mm sump plug. you then undo all the bolts holding the sump onto the engine

Jul 24, 2009 | 1996 Ford Escort 4 Door

1 Answer

I need a diagram of a 1995 ford escort engine


96 escort 1.9L

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Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

Feb 24, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

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