a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check your trans fluid, if its been a while flush it and change the filter if its reving and your speed doesnt change (slipping) if your speed changes check the TPS and speed sensors on the trans as well when you change fluid.
That is a torque converter traction control clutch failure. A test to see if the TCC is failing is to drive at steady highway speed (straight, flat and lite foot pressure on gas pedal) and lightly tap brake pedal. Not enough to slow the car just enough to turn on the brake light. This should cause the engine rpm to rise by 200-300 rpm. If it doesn't then the TCC is probably bad. The really bad news is a trans rebuild will run you anywhere from 2200 to 3900. Find a reputable trans shop and have them do a more definitive troubleshooting and they will be able to give a closer price.
maybe the cam timing is off. If the engine was torn down and reassembled wrong, that would do it. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and see what you get for vacuum readings.
It should be about 17 inches at idle. And, it should be steady.
NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: Needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When engine is accelerated (dotted needle), needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic valve tappet clearance will also cause this reaction.
POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs (6513) are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs (12405) are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading which can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal but as the engine rpm is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tailpipe or other concerns, will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster (2005), the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS FIX VACUUM LEAKS.
sounds more likley you have an air leak this will cause bad starting as it is sucking air in instead of fuel when its cold and wnen it warms up idling will be eratic and misfire check all hoses gaskets relating to the inlet manifold or if its done that kind of mileage crankcase pressure could be the problem but i suspect an air leak yates210456