Starter will not turn over until the batt. cable is disconnected
The starter is disabled until the batt. circuit is interrupted and then the car starts one time and then the same thing again no starter rotation until the batt. cable is removed and reconnected again...starter,relays,ign. switch,batt, all ck fine ..even the ford dealer says i dont know ..well i hope someone can help...
Re: starter will not turn over until the batt. cable is...
I have a 1998 Ford Windstar that even if the key is off and parked the starter wants to spin, I feel this may be an electrical situation I have never had a problem with can someone please help me? my email is email@example.com
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Re: starter will not turn over until the batt. cable is...
Sounds to me like there is a short in the starting system that is causing this (or it's wired wrong). Ford starter solenoids are known for problems. The reason the starter will turn after the cable is disconnected is because the circuit (or in this case short circuit) has been broken . I'll bet if you replace the starter solenoid, your problem will be solved. I think it's just "shorting-to-ground". Good Luck!
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What year ? For the 2004 model year, the Windstar was renamed the Ford Freestar. Anti-theft light lit on instrument cluster ? Battery good ! How about the battery cables ? Voltage drop test the starting system . Videos on you tube Starter Voltage Drop
The starting system cranks the engine at a speed fast enough to permit the engine to start.
Heavy cables, connectors and switches are used because of the large current required by the starter motor (11002) while it cranks the engine.
The amount of resistance in the starting circuit must be kept to a minimum to provide maximum current for starter motor operation.
A discharged or damaged battery (10655), loose or corroded connections or partially broken cables will cause slower than normal cranking speeds and may prevent the starter motor from cranking the engine.
The starting system includes:
the permanent magnet gear-reduction starter motor with a solenoid-actuated drive.
a starter switch (part of the ignition switch (11572)).
the transmission range (TR) sensor.
The TR sensor in the starter control circuit prevents operation of the starter motor unless the selector lever is in NEUTRAL or PARK.
The starter relay (14N089) interrupt-consists of:
pull-in coil and
When the ignition switch is in the START position:
Current passes through the starterrelay-interrupt from the engine compartment power distribution box to the starter solenoid (11390) .
wiring to the starter; large cable coming from the battery to the
large post on the starter is direct current, hot at all times. there are two small wires that connect to the solenoid, one comes from the ignition.
Look for loose connection especially ground. If you jumper the connection on the solenoid to the large connection on the battery and it starts, I would suspect fault in the ignition circuit...
Disconnect the red battery cable.Take a test light and hook 1end to the + batt post and the other end to the +batt cable.
This will make the test light illuminate.
Pull 1 fuse at a time until the light turns off. This will pin point the electrical circuit that has "parasitic draw". (be sure to reinstall each fuse that has no change)
one easy way is to have someone hold key in crank ing position,then another person needs to hit or tap the starer housing itself.if engine begins to crank intermittently or ur cliking noise turns into small jolts of the starter trying to crank then u can bet its the strtr motor. u do need a charged batt for this test. also chek ur battery grounds they can dramatically affect starter operation if we have a voltage drop anywhere in starter circuit .chek batt cables r tight on batt posts, loose batt cables on battery will also give u clicking noise w no starter operation
Yes, If you have a volt meter, jump and start engine, with engine running you should have approx 13.5 to 14.2volts that would tell me that batt is getting charged when engine is running. you said new batt would not hold a charge, I would be thinking about a parasitic draw(small amount of power) that in time will drain batt. things to look for are glove box lights, under hood lights that dont turn off. one easy way too see if you have a draw is to disconnect one batt cable, now use a regular (12volt non-self powered) test light and touch one end to batt cable and the other to empty batt terminal, with no light switches on and doors closed, this test light should not light and if it does then you have a drain on batt that will kill it say overnight.
obviously the circuit is shorting somehow. there should be a starter relay on the fender near the battery. two large battery wires and a small signal wire. disconnect the signal wire and try re-connecting the + batt cable. if it tries to start i would say you have a faulty starter relay. if it doesn't, then there is a short in the ignition switch/circuit. check your work. make sure everything is like it should be btw, it's [solenoid]
disconnect batt,remove the 3 starter mounting bolts and ground cable(should be connected to one of the mounting bolts),disconnect the 2 wires on the starter.install new starter and then reconnect batt.