Question about 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

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Why did my car start !?

I am currently working on a 68 camaro to which I slapped a 454 w/ an 8-71 blower. Had it dyno-ed, herd it run perfectly. Now that I've actually
slapped it in the car it is real hard to get it started.The first time I tried starting it I found out the dyno guy had left the distributor rotor cap loose.Started that time.Now it doesn't start again. Now here is the mind-blower. The other day I was cheking it for spark and as soon as I tested the #1 plug I saw a pretty healthy spark when I ground it to the block and (surprise) the car started. Now I cant repeat the same scenario.Now I can barely get a blink ,or any at all.
?What exactly did it indicate when it started by grounding the plug???
I've added grounding cables,the distributor is getting spark,added perfomance plugs,replaced wires (resistance check),etc,etc
yorch454@yahoo.com

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  • tskrn Jan 01, 2009

    First of all Thanks for taking the interest in helping me out.It is obvious you know what you are talking about.Your info sounds logical.As for the information I left out is as follows:

    Distributor;MSD 8361

    Ignition;MSD-6BTM

    Starter;PowerMaster XS Torque

    Battery; DieHard 700 cca

    Coil;Accel 8140c (old one I had when running with a stock 350).

    Another thing is the car is all apart I'm doing a full restoration.So

    the items mentioned are just "rigged" temporarily except starter(obvious).Oh..one more thing what setting do I use on my boost ******? Does it matter?

    I will definitely follow your directions in the next few days.If this other information gives you any leads please advice me.So I have extra info while at it.

    p.s I'm new to this web site so please bare with me.Not even a week old.I guess that'll be another topic"How do I work this????

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  • 6,982 Answers

First, I am strongly against dyno testing on anything but a protype motor, unless you intend to tear it down after testing and check everything over. You should not be running more than 8 to 1 compression, especially on gasoline (too unstable... Id rather work with nitromethane) carbureted or injected?. If your distributor (by the way, what type?) takes its power from the same source as the starter, it's possible that cranking is pulling too much voatage from the ignition (why I used to use a vertex magneto on my racemobiles). (what kind of starter) If your battery is in the trunk,and it should be, use "00" welding cables to run power to starter. attach ground either to one of the starter bolts, or close to the starter on a bellhousing bolt.Use the largest battery you can find.(in cca's) In my opinion, you should be using a good set of silicone/steel ign wires (unless it's a doorslammer and you like listening to the radio)Re-set the static timing to about 8degrees to begin with, and it should start.Unless there is an ign problem (internal) You really didn't post enough to work with but try what I said, it's a good place to start!
Good luck, keep me posted! Whats next a 1471???

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • Richard Scordino Jan 01, 2009

    One thing I neglected to mention which I've used to get big nasty engines started is: Put a "toggle" switch in the main power line to the ignition system. With the power "off" to the ignition, engage the starter. Once spinning, then turn on the ignition power. This eliminates the engine "fighting back" against itself while starting. This even works on a hot race engine that balks on re-start after a hard run.

  • Richard Scordino Jan 01, 2009

    Although MSD stuff works really well when it works, it can get really squirley on you when it dosen't. If you have an old stock HEI distributor around, it may be a good idea to hook that up just to test. (if it fits behind blower)
    As far as how much boost, that depends on fuel you are using and how strong the bottom end of the engine is. I would start out with as little as possible, to keep it out of detonation and work my way up, taking careful plug readings after each run (if racing) or every few days of driving. Readings are not reliable if just running in shop. Aside from plug colour, watch for aluminium transfer... (tells you if you're about to waste a piston.) Running a fuel engine on nitro or alcohol, generally you would add more fuel than you need and lean it out bit by bit... Keeps stuff from burning up. If running carbs, it's really hard to go into hydrolock, 'cause you can't stuff enough fuel through them as you can with injectors. Never make more than one change at a time, or a good change can be negated by a bad one.
    Don't run the same fuel pump you did with a 350 setup... Check with Sid Waterman or someone like him to get the correct stuff for the big engine.


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