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Fuses? Blown fusible link? Most gauges work by getting 12 volts from the ignition switch when on, and getting a ground from the sender. Often the 12 volt supply wire goes to more than one so if dead, both will fail. If you have a wiring diagram, you might find which wire to cluster should be hot, and trace it backward to find the issue. Easier to check for ignition switch feed first.
No help but my gauges stopped working at about the same time on my '98 Frontier. So far, the fuel, temp., speedometer, odometer and trip gauges don't work or some work at different times after starting the engine.
I would say that the speedometer and odometer probably a bad speed sensor. They are symbiotic so if the speedometer fails, the odometer will fail as well. If the needle on the gas gauge lies dead on the "E" all the time, I would blame a faulty gas tank sending unit and replace the unit. However, removing the tank out of the car is required for the repair. If the gauge is pegged on "F" at the top of the gauge when the key and/or ignition are on/running and it lies dead only when the car is off, then somewhere there is a short to ground either at the origin, at the destination or along the path of the signal. Still, chances are the sending unit is bad. As for the window, check the fuses in the fuse panel. If they are good then I think you should be confident of a faulty window relay causing the problem.
Blown Fuse or fried Circuit board. Take to a local AutoZone, Advance, Murray's, O'reillys or a similar part house for them to check the wiring. I'm assuming the van does not use a mechanical Speedometer or Fuel Gauge.
On the plus side, with no speedometer, your indicated odometer mileage does not increase. Just keep your speed down and your tank full. Kidding, just kidding.
I had the similar problem until recently in my 1997 Chrysler Intrepid (In Canada they're called Chrysler for some strange reason). There could be two things with your intrepid.
1) Body Control Module (BCM) - There are ground wires and other important electrical components leading to your BCM. Over time and with some unknown wear (according to Chysler) the wires fray and somehow short circuit your BCM. This is quite difficult to replace and expensive if you go to a dealer. I was quoted almost up to $5000+ for repairs and they would not guarantee it was a fix. Still I suggest to find one at a junkyard and try to replace it yourself.
2) Instrument Panel Cluster - My new junkyard BCM worked for about a month bringing everything to life, then the same problem happend again. The next step for me was to replace the entire front Instrrument cluster ( Odometer, fuel readings etc) Ever since replacing this front panel, no problems have existed since then. Its been about 3 months, and all the gauges are working fine.