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Could be a bad coil, bad Ignition Control Module (what controls the ignition coil as commanded by the engine computer), or a bad crank position sensor, or cam position sensor. Or the wiring and circuits to all the ignition parts.
Often it is the crank sensor (CKP sensor)-The pcm must have this information from the crank sensor to determine spark timing. If no good signal from the crank sensor, there will be no spark.
Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good.
If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse.
If you having a problem with more than one system, I want to check for rpm signal, that usually comes from the crank sensor. Not sure why you replaced cam sensor? I always want to check sensor wiring circuits before replacing anything. Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.
There are so many possibilities, fuse, command module, crank signal? Is the module getting 12 volts. It is rarely a whole ignition coil pack goes out unless of a short. Was the unit burned up? If not, it could have a bad crank position signal. The cam sensor is mainly for fuel and crank sensor is mainly for spark.
What about your ignition module? I can't tell if you just replaced coils or ignition module included? Also, before buying anything, check voltage and ground for ignition module. Pink wire is voltage, black wire is ground.
The crank sensor sends ac signal to ignition module, the module converts signal to dc, something the computer can handle, then sends rpm signal to computer.
If you have spark at all the plugs, the crank sensor should be ok. You should use a gage to check fuel pressure? I don't know engine size? For the 3.1L engine, my info says 40--46 psi.
It is possible to have spark at the plugs, but, the computer doesn't see rpm signal. If that is the case, no fuel injector pulse. The purple wire with white tracer carries rpm signal from ignition module to pcm, that wire has dc pulse, engine cranking. If nothing there, have to check ignition module.
How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes?
Check gas and spark. Check if fuel pump is still working. Do you have fuel pressure? Or can you check the fuel pressure? With key on, the pump should have put fuel under pressure in the lines and up to the injectors.
Check ignition system by checking for spark at one of the spark plug wires, with the engine cranking over. You need to see a blue, snapping spark to know the ignition system is good. If no spark on one wire, check another or all of them. If no spark, and no trouble codes-could be a bad crank position sensor. This sensor helps the computer calculate the timing of the spark, the main sensor the computer uses to signal for spark. It signals to the ignition control module (which controls the coils and the primary current to the coils ((the coils-where high voltage is created to cause spark at the plug)) ). So no spark? Could be a bad crank sensor...or a bad ignition control module...
If you have a single coil and not a coil pack, you might want to test that coil, but if shut down while driving, sounds like computer related, so check ignition controls: that would be crank sensor or ignition control module, or in worst case a bad PCM.
Check for spark when it won't start. If you have spark, might be your fuel pump relay, maybe the map sensor. If no spark, check another or all plug wires. If ignition isn't working, it could be Crankshaft Position sensor, Camshaft position sensor (or pick-up coil), ignition control module, coils, pcm, or the wiring associated with them. PCM determines spark timing after inputs from crank and can sensors, and sends ground signal to ignition module, cutting primary voltage to coils, initiating spark or high voltage from coil to sparkplug. All these parts have to be working right for ignition. All can be tested too. You'd need a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) and a repair manual for your car with the test procedures. That Mitchell alldata-diy site has a special on subscriptions, pretty reasonable for a 1 month subscription, and excellent info and troubleshooting flow charts, wiring diagrams, etc.
You are jumping to conclusions. Slow down.
No spark AND no injector pulse indicates none of the desired outputs were triggered. The ignition module makes spark when it receives a crankshaft position sensor signal, and then transfers control of that spark to the computer after it starts. The module takes its crank sensor signal and generates an RPM count that it forwards to the PCM(main computer) which is used for triggering the injectors and controlling timing. SO, if you had a bad crank sensor OR a bad ignition module, you could lose both spark AND fuel. a coil would not disable injector pulse. modules RARELY fail in a manner that disables RPM reference to the computer causing it to not fire the injectors...At this point, I would TEST the crank sensor as the next step. If its easier, 1 of the wires on the module goes directly there so you can test the crank sensor at the module.
You need to 1st determine if the computer is even trying to start it before you start lobbing parts. Look at the CHECK ENGINE lamp while you crank it. If it stays on bright while cranking, the engine will not get any signal to fire spark or fuel because the computer is not seeing RPM signal while cranking. If the light goes OFF while cranking, the crank signal was seen, however there could still be fuel or spark issues from other causes. You really need to determine if you have spark or fuel as the next step after verifying rpm signal. There are no cheap tricks for most of this work, it takes tools and training to determine the exact cause of failures. Does the ECM communicate? Is the EEC relay functioning, does the fuel pump prime up at Key On? Is there injector pulse? Fuel pressure? 30kv of Spark that is also reaching the plugs?
These are the steps to check to determine how to not buy a wasted part as the next step.
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle