Our 94 astro van will start right up when engine is cold but once the engine heats up it idles funny and shuts down then will not start until engine is dead cold again! has a new starter but has been sitting for about 4 yrs please help tired of rescuing my husband
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When a vehicle start from a cold start it is in open loop,it gets more fuel,resistance on the sensors are low,so is the ignition coil.When you say you replaced the distributor is that with a pick up? You also need to inspect the pick up terminal for corrosion. and bad connection,this also goes for the ICM which is recommended when you replace the pick up and you need to inspect ICM connection for corrosion and poor connection
i hate to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like a head gasket failure.usually occurs in cyl 2 ond or 3 in these engines (1.8L).car sits and engine cools coolant leaks into cylinder and when started runs with amiss until coolant burns out of cylinder and conversely air gets in cooling system,system gets low and you have poor heat esp at idle.have your mechanic confirm but these engines are becoming notorious for this.
I know on an astro van there is a heater valve under the hood on the passenger side. check the cables or vaccum lines going to the heater valve under the hood. If there is a module it will be mounted to the heater suit case under the right side of the dash
Check the base plate gasket under the throttle body, some time the gasket start to leak, and will cause a high idle, if possible with engine running get some water and pore it at the base of the throttle bode, you will hear a suction sound, that's the gasket, replace it.
Since your blower is working and it is a heat issue,thats where we'll
start,First thing is have you checked the coolant level in the radiator when
engine is cold,make sure it is filled to top,next verify you have coolant in
reserve ,Start your van and get it up to normal operation temperature,If your
heat gauge on the dash works correctly it should be 190 degrees,Now lift the
hood and locate the two heater hoses going into the heater assembly at the fire
wall,Both hoses should be hot to hold on to,if both are hot and no heat inside
your problem will be the blend air door in heater assembly. if neither hose
is that hot you need to replace the thermostat in the engine to get it up to 195
degrees. if one hose is hot and one is luke warm then the heater core is
blocked and to blame. hope this helps you.
It sounds to me that you may have 2 problems. 1). Air Lock in the Heater Core. 2). Inactive Heat Damper in the Plenum.
But since you state that the Heater Hoses do not get warm that is indicative of an Air Lock in the Heater Core. This is a relatively simple fix. It is best performed COLD but requires a method of pressurizing the Cooling System. All reputable Auto Parts stores Sell and/or Rent Pumps that temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap for Leak tests and curing Air Lock. The Collant Level must be filled FULL then pressurized and then loosening the Highest Heater Hose at the Firewall so that Air and a Small Amount of Coolant escapes. Once all the Air has escaped tighten the Heater Hose Clamp, remove the Pressure Pump, Restore the Collant Level to FULL, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. As it Warms up you should be able to feel coolant running through the Heater Hoses and they should become warm.
If it is blowing hot air out of the defroster and not out of the heater vents then the door that directs the heat from the defroster isn't working properly it is blocking the heat from going to the heater vents. Also check the cold air door. It sounds like it isn't closing all the way to shut off the cold air and not letting the hot air pass.
You most likely have an air pocket in the cooling system. The heater core on these vans is much higher than the engine and they can be tough to get all the air out of them.
Make sure the coolant in the radiator is full when engine is cold- also fill the overflow bottle to the top. Chock the rear wheels. Jack up the front of the van as far as you can and support with jack stands. Run the engine until it's warm and then hold the RPMS at 2000 for about 5 minutes while checking for heat inside the cabin. You may hear some funny noises like something is trying to come through the firewall forcefully! That's the air pocket moving... you might not hear this also. Once you have good heat inside, let the engine idle- if the air coming form the vents cools off after a couple minutes, the air is still there- keep doing this until the air is hot coming from the vents at idle for more than a couple minutes. Once you have good heat, turn the engine off and let the engine cool completely- at least a couple hours... you will most likely see the level in the overflow drop dramatically. Lower vehicle and make sure overflow is at COLD FULL mark.
Newer Altimas also had a similar situation in which heat would go away at idle- usually not a problem with an air pocket, but Nissan has a bulletin out on putting the correct concentration of coolant/water in the system- these cars are very sensitive to changes in coolant mixture concentration.