Question about 1997 Ford Taurus
Need help wit the pump and its location
The front pump is in the front of the transmission. you have to remove tranie for access. if you are having a buzzzing nosie, you may just need to change the oil and clean or change the trans filter
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery then loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts be sure to do this before removing the drive belt then remove the drive belt, alternator, and remove accessory drive belts and idler assembly bolts loosen the hose clamp and detach the heater hose from the water pump and then remove bolts from water pump they around $36.00 at NAPA
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
images from a 97 Ford Taurus, GL body type. Shows location of flasher and a simple removal tecnique I discovered. The alternative was insane contortion.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
use a 15mm box wrench on the nut retaining the tensioner pulley to pry the tensioner 'arm' against the spring to release belt. note belt routing on decal under hood,or make a sketch,to aid in replacement.
on OHV engine rotate clockwise
on OHC rotate counter clockwise
be sure belt is completely seated on pulleys
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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