I have just brought a S Type year 2005 diesel and had it serviced,
they said the air con gas was very low and refilled it.
I am now getting high pressure steam under the engine near to nearside wheel. + noises coming from the dash panel which sound like flape resetting.
Am I losing gas again and why?
Heater is working ok but steams up unless air con is on.
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Re: air con gas leaking & noises from under dash
Hi jrm the smoke under the wing is the fuel fired heater and is normal. the noise is the heater motors for the heater flaps, there is a jag fix but you have to replace all the motors just ignore it. Try changeing the filter for the heater under the left side scuttle panel thats below the black plastic panel below the screen that will help the steaming up
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ac compressors are protected by high pressure and low pressure switches in the system. If the ac compressor will not engage it may be --no gas--too much gas ---blockage in the system--- no cooling fan for the condensor-- burnt out clutch behind the pulley
have an accredited ac specialist check it out.
No the only thing wrong with this vehicle is the R134 gas is low thats all ,after about 2/3 years from new they need re-gassing then as vehicle get older you have to top it up with gas more often ,.this vehicle holds about 700/800 grms of gas and i reckon its down to about 200 grms of gas so air con is still coming on but its taking a while to cool ,not a problem at all just get it regassed or buy a can of gas if available in your country and connect it to low pressure side of AC its the smaller valve ,then start engine and put AC on and let it **** in the gas from the refill can but do not overfill it will not be any colder but it will keep clicking in and slowing the engine and then clickinig out again .If you fill with one can a year if that and only put 500 grms a time in in the spring no problem .R134 gas is more corrosive that the old R12 so its tends to leak through the seals ,happens to all cars ,this is not a problem if you like it buy it but i hope its a diesel model with manual gearbox as this is worth more money for when you decide to sell it
Locate the low pressure point, normally with the L sign on the cap, should be on the top pipe coming from underneath the windscreen to the front container, than get a proper filling gas ( must be the type used normally on your car), these containers come with pressure gauge so you should be fine, start the engine, put the fan on maximum, put air con on (make sure the compressor clicks in), and than attach the pipe to the low pressure point, observe the gauge as you do not want to overfill. Job done
this is a common mistake,when i was selling cars i must have put gas in 20 diesel cars.you can run a diesel car with about 10%gas in the fuel with the only problem being hot starting and slower acceleration,(it is common for garages to tell customers that the whole system needs flushing,this is bollox,)NATO tanks run on 30%gas/diesel mix in arctic conditions(stops fuel from freezing and is less volatile than gas alone(takes a lot to burn diesel out of a pressurised container...) just use low power until you can refill with high octane gas...(diesel mixes with gas,it doesnt float on the surface or sink down...so filters are not affected either...))
sounds like the air-con gas is low switch on air-con a nd check to see if the compressor clutch is pulling in if not reove h/p dust cap on the aircon pipe press schroder valve to see if gas escapes if not will need re-gassing even if you get gas out without a pressure gauge it is hard to tell if the right anount of gas is in the system.
If it leaks 134 it will leak R-12 .I have changed hundreds of systems over to 134 without any complaints. Don't let the 94% eff rating of 134a scare you because that does not mean that your ac system will lose 6% cooling ability .A large class 8 truck or maybe a high roof van black on black and poor insulation might tax the system in the 90% range on 100 degree days but most systems never get close . 134a high side pressure will be about 18% higher so most systems you need to change the high side cutout.The R-12 electric fan switch will be ok just make sure it is engageing the fan when the pressure comes up.You must check the condensor in front of radiator to make sure air flows easily thru it.On systems where the hoses screw on each side of the dryer I replace the dryer .Drain oil from compressor and replace with 134a oil .Replace that bad valve core (with ac valve core not a tire valve) Now very very important vaccum the system and if no loss of vaccum in 20 min charge with manufactors recomended amount of oil and freon.If a system is low on freon (cycling in & out on low pressure switch) you can add a pound of charge with those small cans of same type freon no problem but when there is a leak and the charge has been lost or changing freon types you must pull a vaccum to properlly charge the system. If you just charge R-12 or 134a your system will have traped non -condensables and a large drop in cooling ability. Hope this helps. Harold
you are bodging it and as you dont know anything about the A/C system then leave well alone and get it done with a machine.the whole system needs to be evacuated oil drain needs to be measured then refilled with the correct grade of oil and then regassed with the correct WEIGHT of gas and possibly a leak sealer added using special equipment.If it still doesnt work properly then it needs draining again and the venturi valve removing and checking out on the front unit.This is a specialised job for highly skilled operatives with the right equipment