Question about 2004 Pontiac Grand Am
The ABS, Trac Off and Service Vehicle Soon lights are all on when I am driving and when I start my 2004 Pontiac Grand AM GT Coupe. It is in the shop now to be looked at, but I'm curious as to what could be causing this, or what the potential problem may be, just so I have some idea on what the issue is when I talk to my mechanic this afternoon/evening about the problem. I thought it might be the alternator, because when I step on the brakes, the head lights dim signficantly. I checked the oil, water and brake fluid, and all are where they should be.
My email is firstname.lastname@example.org
SOURCE: I JUST HAD THE HEAD
These lights have nothing to with the engine work, unless they disconnected or damaged your abs sensors. it sounds like they need replaced, problem is they are integrated into the hub/bearing assembly. when you replace the hub(s) be certain not to over-torque the axle nut, as this would simply redamage the hub
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
I have this same problem with my 2000 Grand Am and the mechanic that I had taken it to had told me it was from a bad ABS sensor in a wheel hub, in order to fix that I would need to purchase a new hub. He said that triggered the service vehicle soon light and had caused the ABS light to come on as well. Although I have not fixed it yet, I trust that this is the problem.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
SOURCE: my 2001 beetle turn signals
I found this for you at the bottom there is a link if you just want to replace the switch insted of clean it this seems to be a big issue on you car that with a little time you should be able to take care of youself!
The "emergency flasher" switch ... you know, the one in the lower switch panel (flanked by the rheostats for the heated seats) with a triangular icon.The emergency flaser switch is the turn flasher relay, too! Getting access isn't easy.
You need one of those fancy-smancy star-shaped (torks bits)screwdrivers (and a stubby, at that) to remove the 4 screws ... two at the bottom of the plastic housing in which the switches are mounted, and two more are revealed whenever you pry off the plastic trim that surrounds the rheostats at each end of the switch panel (yep, they just pry right off with your fingers ... pull TOWARD you). Once you have the 4 retaining screws extracted, you can pry the whole switch panel downward at the back, and free up a lip on the upper front edge, dropping the whole thing downward so you can access the wiring harnesses and back-sides of the switches. Pry off the wiring connector from the back of the unit (there's a plastic keeper, but just wiggle the plug & pull sternly and it'll come right off without breaking anything). Then push down on a retainer at the top front of the switch unit and shove it forward and slide it out of the switch panel.
The trouble is the burnt-up contact points of the relay. You have to remove the activator button (the iconized cap) off the front of the switch in order to get the case off (it slides right off if you pry up the edges with a knife tip to free the latches) to get inside for surgery. Doing some micro-surgery to clean the single relay contacts and bend them (with a very fine needle nosed pliers) slightly so that they once again touched when the coil was activated, solved my problem
hey ... found a VW Hazard Flasher Switch here for $22:
Wish you the best with your VW!
Posted on Oct 21, 2010
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