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Sounds like 2 possibilities, A) your alternator is not charging the battery or B) your battery is pooched.
To check your alternator, 1) without the engine running apply a volt meter to your battery, it should read somewhere around 12 volts. 2) boost the car, and with the engine running test your battery again, it should read approx. 14-15 volts.
If it reads 15 volts, your alternator is fine, and your battery is suspect, if it only reads 12 volts when running, then your alternator needs to be replaced.
If you put a volt meter on the battery and it reads 12 volts before you cranked the engine and it drops to 10 volts or less when you crank the engine, this indicates you have a bad cell in the battery and you should replace the battery because it is not holding the charge. The loud click sound coming from your starter is because you are not supplying enough voltage to energize it.
Check for bad connection to the battery. Use a volt meter to check voltage from alternator to the battery, should be 14.5 volts to 15 volts. If you have anything less than that then look for a bad alternator wire from alternator to battery. Also check for a good ground connection to the battery. Do all the testing with everything off inside the car so you will not have a power drain from the system. hope this will help you.
Since you replaced both the alternator and the battery, it should be working and the first thing to check is for loose and corroded connections. In any case, this is what you should do to check the health of your car charging system with the assistance of a good (no need for an expensive unit) digital multimiter: 1) With the car engine not running and ignition off, measure the voltage across the battery: it should read around 12.8 Volts and anything below 10.5 Volts would indicate a faulty battery with possibly one or more shorted cell. 2) With engine running and idling, measure the voltage around the battery terminal: it should read around 13.8 Volts and any thing below 13.5 Volts or much above 13.8 will indicate a faulty alternator OR alterntor regulator. 3) Repeat step two by gently reving the engine: the correct 13.8 Volts should be maintained even with car light on.
check the ground to battery and clean posts if need be, also make sure that the alternator is at proper charging rate. a fully charged battery with engine off should read at least 12.5 or higher. when running the battery should read 14 volts or a little higher. clean corrosion from case also if need be. if the above does not work check engine ground.
Your car has a warning light for the alternator,for one.and most of your garages will test your alternator for free if you are their customer.If your alternator is working properly the alternator light on the dash will light when you start the car and then go out all the while the motor is running.
Well it could be possible that you have a cell that is going bad.. This would cause battery to fade with little draw from onboard accessories (ie: clock, etc...) Why not spend a couple dollars and install battery isolation switch you can flip when vehicle is expected to sit for a duration... I know this doesnt solve the drain problem you have but could be a solution for not having to jumpstart it when you need to ude it..Good Luck
Had battery replaced on 2005 DTS and afterward the radio/NAV/On-Star would not work.(Totally dead) The dealer who installed could not locate problem. (No GM dealer in Amador County, CA). I read several forums citing this/similar problems. I checked the three fuses labelled "radio, audio, NAV" by pulling, checking and reinstalling (all three were good). When I then restarted the car, everything was once again working! Poor connection? Corroded contacts? Some mysterious computer glitch? Who knows?