If you are just swaping them out it should go in just like the one you are taking out there shouldn't be much dif. in the two parts, after market parts are just parts that are made by off brand companys some time you will get a part that dose not match the same as the one that comes out of the vehicle because it was build by that company so compare the two parts detail for detail and see if they match each other before you try to install it
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You would only need a CARB # if you had any aftermarket emission, or air intake system replaced on your vehicle. If you do have an aftermarket air intake or any other emission parts installed, remove them and return the engine to only all original stock parts, and you will not have a problem with needing a CARB #.
If you want to keep the aftermarket parts, you will have to see The California Air Resource Board and let them give you a certification number.
I hope that this information was in any way helpful to you.
Your problem sounds like have air leakage from air induction system. I suggest you to re-check the gasket of Air Intake Manifold you installled or vacuum hoses for possible air leaking.
The easy way to check it, use Throttle Body or Carburator Spray Cleaner. Just spray around intake manifold where gaskets fitted and observe the idle speed, once the idle change or encrease, definetly there is air leak and you have check the gasket or replce it if necessary.
But if doesn't make change, I suggest you to check Idle Air Control Valve, check connector plug, lines and if you have donor unit try to do test part.
I hope you fix your problem and please update me whatever the result if you dont mind. Thanks
Just the very top ring of the transmission dipstick is visible with the air filter housing lifted up. Removing the upper air filter housing and the rubber ducting for the intake will allow enough room for a transmission funnel to be used.
it should be located in the rear valve couver pushed into a rubber gromet with a hose running from it to the intake tube going to air box if not there then in the front valve couver same deal with a gromet and a hose running to the intake tube going to the air box. thats were 90 percent of ur pcv valves are located on most car trucks and suv's. im not real fimilyer with the 3.0 honda moter but i hope this helps
if its whole air unit faulty then its not at all a rip off.but if its only air filter faulty then its not so costly.so just check out what part is exactly faulty ,because whole air unit cannot be faulty all together.
if air filter is faulty .so to replace
Turn the vehicle off. Don't turn the Accord on while changing the air filter; if the car were to backfire there would be no barrier to protect you or others.--Lift the hood of the car. Locate the air filter housing unit at the front corner on the passenger side of the car. Look for a black box that has a large accordion type hose leading away from it.--Loosen the screws on the air filter housing unit. Lift the lid off of the unit and set it aside.--Take the old filter out of the box. Clean any remaining debris from the box.--Place the new filter in the box. Use a K&N air filter, part number 33-2402 for amanufactured in 2004for honda accord. For older Honda air filters check with your local auto part store or look it up online (see Resources below).--Put the air filter housing unit lid back in place. Don't catch the air filter in the sides or it will allow unfiltered air to enter the engine. Tighten the screws to secure the lid.