- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This fault is a bit srange, when you apply the brake pedal you here a
"Knocking" noise from the front of the car, alternating from one side to the other, the cause of this is a bad earth in the rear light clusters,
which results in the headlight motors activating "Jumping" thus causing the noise, solution is to clean the conections and conecting
blocks of the rear light clusters in extreme cases change the rear light clusters but a good cleaning should fix it hope this was helpfull
saw your other post and thought you just let it go for 2 years. did they change the rotors? an imperfection in the rotor can cause it to make a noise, you would think that the first mechanic would have changed out the rotors and pads to rule it out, i doubt it would be the caliper because it is not close enough, did they check the bearing and axle?
I would pull the wheels and look for something loose on the brakes, such as a spring or self adjuster. Also look at the backing plate to see if it is tight. Keep in mind it may be something covered by the car's warranty.
replace the front struts AND the turn plates above them, they call those the "strut kits". it houses a bearing plate that turn with the steering wheel.... if the struts are too expensive to replace right now, just have the strut KITS replaced. Very common with 80K+ front wheel drive cars and almost always an area most people look over. good luck
the knocking noise is caused by the pads walking. the shims that fell out go 1 ontop and 1 on bottom.you will have to take the caliper back off that is the 2 14mm. bolts one is longer than the other so pay close attention .once removed the spacers should half should slide on the knuckle assembly 1 up 1 down .then slide caliper back over. thanks!
firstly i would take it back to the garage i got it repaired at. but does the knocking get worse the faster you get or is it only on turning on full lock? if its when turning could be a faulty CV joint, could be that the driveshaft is not located back in the gearbox correctly, i would take it back to the garage
THIS COULD BE SEVERAL ITEMS. FIRST LOOK AT THE SHOCK ABSORBER. LOOK AT THE ENDS WHERE THEY ATTACH. SOMETIMES THE RUBBER BUSHINGS GET BEAT OUT AND THEN THERE IS ONLY THE MOUNTING BOLT THAT BANGS AROUND IN THE HOLE. ALSO CHECK SUSPENSION BUSHINGS FOR EXCESSIVE WEAR AT PIVOT POINTS. DON'T KNOW IF THIS WILL HELP BECAUSE OF LACK OF INFORMATION, BUT THIS IS A STARTING POINT FOR YOU. GOOD LUCK.