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Re: Serpentine Belt Replacement
Look at your tensioner pulley it will have a squre cutout that accomodates a 1/2 inch drive ratchet or a 3/8 drive, most likely 1/2 inch. Just insert your ratchet and release in same manner as on the older models....Good Luck
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Start by drawing a diagram of the belt routing. Serpentine belts normaly have 1 spring loaded tensioner (1 pully will have a nut or 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive hole) That will be the tensioner. get spanner or ratchet to fit & lever the tensioner away from the belt. Remove belt. fit new belt to most pullys except the easiest to get to, lever the tenioner back & fit the belt to the last pully, Check the belt is on all pullys properly & your done
Use a long wrench on the tensioner pully nut (located in the center of the pulley) Move the wrench to removed tension from the idler (this is spring loaded to maintain constant pressure on the belt) once that is done, the belt should be able to slid off the alternator pulley. With the belt removed from the pulleys, you will have to remove the engine mount bracket to be able to replace it. To do this first support the engine, then remove the bracket. You will then be able to remove the serpentine belt. Look under the hood for the belt routing diagram and re-install the belt, followed by the engine mount.
Check to ensure the Sienna's engine is cold, then make sure
the Sienna is in park, the ignition is in the off position and the key
is removed from the ignition to prevent any possibility of the engine
engaging during the serpentine belt replacement.
Open the hood and locate the serpentine belt routing diagram
sticker on the side of the engine casing. Study it for a moment before
removing the existing belt. It is essential the new belt be installed
exactly as the diagram indicates.
Find the tensioner pulley, the main pulley that controls the
serpentine belt, and fit a 1/2-inch socket wrench over the
self-tensioner on the outside of the pulley.
Pull the wrench to the left to move the pulley forward, which loosens the belt, then remove the belt.
Compare the old serpentine belt with the new, replacement
belt for length, width and number of grooves on the belt's underside. Be
certain the replacement belt is the right part.
Fit the new belt on to each pulley according to the
serpentine belt routing diagram on the manufacturer's sticker, or
according to the drawing made prior to removing the old belt. Fit the
new belt on to the tensioner pulley last, again applying pressure on the
pulley's self-tensioner with the half-inch socket wrench to loosen the
Release the pressure on the self tensioner and allow the
tensioner pulley to ease back into place, thereby tightening the new
serpentine belt with the appropriate tension.
The Belt Diagram should be on the underside of your hood, however they have a way of disappearing.
If it is not there: Click on the following free direct Link. It has the correct Serpentine Belt Diagrams for your 2001 Toyota Corolla 1.8L (4-Cylinder) Engine and Engine Options (AC/No AC etc.). Included are Instructional and Directional Diagrams for your use.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/toyota/model/corolla/2001_toyota_corolla_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm"HOW TO": Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner: 1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link) 2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. 3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. 4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
For the 3.0L Vulcan, you have a tensioner that is located just below the power steering pully. Use a 15mm wrench or the 15mm shallow well socket that comes in a Serpentine Belt tool to push the tensioner toward the rear of the engine compartment. Take the old belt off and route the new belt. The belt begins at the crankshaft pully, goes under and around the a/c compressor, up around the power steering pump, around (with the flat edge) the idler pully, around the alternator, the flat edge then sits against the tensioner and back around to the water pump pully. You should have a belt routing diagram on the underside of the hood just above the serpentine pully assembly.
You need to find the idler tension pully. This moves up and down with the aid of a large spring. Placing a large wrench on the nut in the middle of the tension pully, you will be able to move it up or down to release the belt and install it.
Can u turn the nut in the opposite direction that u have been trying? U need a lot of leverage to get enough tension off to remove the belt. If u have enough room, add a pipe to the end of your wrench, u will need a lot of room to move the tensioner enough. U might have better luck buying the wrench made for that purpose at a parts store. I think I paid about 25 a couple years ago, I couldn't fit a regular socket and wrench on the tensioner, it was a very tight space.