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Re: Binding hydraulic brakes
Do not know MOT, but put the rear axel on support and in neutral with no brakes, turn the wheels to feel the friction... if there, remove the rubber slot cover from the inside of the shoe mounting plate and reduce shoes to minimum adjustment.... if at minimum already, you must remove the shoe and grind out he pivot contact point to allow the shoes to move toward the axel more ie. get away from the drum... if disks, you must find a way to give the disk and pads more clearence. good luck, hny
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depending on which wheel in front can be brakes --pad broke and wedge between rotor and caliper ,caliper frozen ,transmission coupling binding or damaged ,hub [wheel bearing] frozen ---with the rear add emergency brake frozen or damaged
If the disc brakes are binding this usually means one or both calipers are not releasing fully. This is usually a fault in the caliper, but can also be caused by such things as bad break hose, faulty master cylinder, or brake pedal not returning fully due to linkage issues. Jack up rear of car and put it on stands, try to turn each rear wheel to see which is binding. Both? check brake hose for interior rubber breakdown or master for failure to fully release.
Could be the rear Emergency brakes are binding. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, put it in neutral and attempt to turn the rear wheels by hand.
You do not have to use the Emergency brakes to have problems with them. The linings fall off the metal shoe and bind up on the turning drum within the rear rotor. Then when the direction of rotation changes, the remaining brake linings regroup and jam the other way.
Sometimes the loose lining jams into small bits, pulverized, and sometimes form large chunks that jam the brakes.
Another potential problem you can check with the rear wheels off the ground and in neutral is the U-joints on the driveshaft. Popping is a symptom of play in the joints. Binding is a possibility but the joint is close to breaking at this point.
A faulty anti lock brake control pressure control valve can cause this in the ABS hydraulic control unit. The system is an active system, this means the brakes can be applied with no pedal input from you the driver, pressure is always present.
the brake is binding causing the brake material to keep contact with the braking surface. the smell is the brake material burning. have it checked by a pro. what type of brakes are they? if disk, the piston is binding, if drum the wheel brake cylinder is binding. expect to replace either
hand brake cable adjuster lives under centre console at rear 10mm spanner required unadjust this and then remove rear drums to adjust linings so they just drag on drum then go back and adjust cable in car
hi to get the pads in you did screw the calipers pistons all the way back and you should have backed the hand brake cable off as well then adjusted the cable afterwards problem with self adjusting calipers is you can adjust the handbrake cable and the brakes are ok until driven then they can bind so try backing the adjustment off on the handbrake [should really change both calipers as a pair to keep the axles brake balance but this is not anything to do with the brakes binding] best of luck paul