Question about 1999 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Engin is dead

If engine is dead because of piston rod bearing stop working is it because there was not enough oil? How far I can drive without oil before rod bearing will cause the enging to go down?

I would truly appreciate if you could reply to my problem

Thank you.
Lucyna

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Expert
  • 328 Answers

The oil pump could have failed as well.......but it is not good to drive any distance or even idle your vehicle with no oil.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

My 2004 trailbazer makes a knocking noise whan started, it gets quieter as ou drive it, but does not go away


Hello
Any knocking noise is more than likely due to worn connecting rod bearings, Crankshaft main bearings or piston or piston pin noise. Connecting rod bearing knocks and piston related noise quite some with warm up, piston noise tends to go completely away after about 5 minutes of run time, but there are exceptions to that run like a cracked piston skirt, crankshaft bearings don't quite very much. It would be my best quests without hearing the noise that you may have either a connecting rod or piston related noise. The best thing to do here is have a trained ear listen to the noise, any experienced technician will know very quickly what the noise is and where it is coming from. These types of noises are only common on high miles engines, with at least 100,000 miles on them is the general run or the engine has been run very low on oil repeated times, or the oil not changed at regular intervals or the engine has been severely overheated. My experience? 35 years as a dealer technican. I'm Master certified in all phases of auto and light truck repair.

Jul 03, 2011 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

Oil pressure dropped to zero when stopped at a stop light, picks back up when driving down the road. checked oil have plenty, coolant also reading low


Unfortunately this sounds like the symptoms of worn main engine bearings. Most likely crankshaft, but possibly connecting rod bearings as well. When the bearings wear to a point that the oil clearance between the lobe and the bearing is to far out of spec this causes a drop in oil pressure throughout the oil system. If you continue to drive the Jeep more damage WILL be done, in particular to the valve trane. Normally to replace the main bearing the engine is removed from the vehicle. I have replaced main (crankshaft) bearings without removing the engine, but it is a time consuming process. If you're interested in a tutorial of how I have done this, post comments in this thread.

Feb 04, 2011 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

The engine has blown. I need to replace it or change pistons and rings. How difficult is it to change pistons and rings?


It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods
  1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
    1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
    2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
    3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
    4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
    5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge tccs3923.gif

    6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert tccs3917.gif

  2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
  3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston tccs3222.gif

  4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer tccs3914.gif

  5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
  6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
  7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
  8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
  9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
  10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
  11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).
OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY
  1. Install the camshaft.
  2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
  3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.
CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).
OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.
Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
  1. Connect the vehicle battery.
  2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
    Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
  3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
  4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
  5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
  6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed. prev.gif next.gif

Oct 17, 2010 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

2 Answers

My Audi A3 started leaking oil. I noticed it when I tried to top it up. I made the mistake of trying to drive the car about a mile before I gave up. Have I done some seriours damage to the engine. I took...


Well, if you seized the bearings, you're looking at a big job, unfortunately.

They can try to remove the bearings from below and replace the 2 half shelled bearings for each crankshaft bearing and/or the piston rods.

However, if they go that far, they might as well also overhaul the engine.

This repair is, I'm sure you might already know, not cheap.

Perhaps you could get an engine from a salvage yard.

Hope this helps.

Jul 04, 2010 | 2000 Audi A6

2 Answers

I have a 2002 ram 1500 with 4.7 magnum truck


There are several reasons why you would hear a loud knock from the engine, and the knock will usually be either in the top end or in the lower or bottom end of the engine.

The first thing that should be done is to drain the engine oil, and then pour the oil filter into a pan where you can see it, and if there is a lot of metal flakes, or a fine cloud of brass floating in the engine oil, you will not want to waste the time or the money trying to repair that engine by dropping the oil pan and replacing the piston rod bearings, it will only be a very temporary patch at best, that is if the patch even lasts for a day.

If you do find metal flakes in the engine oil and oil filter, the piston rod bearings will not be the only bearings in the engine that will need to be replaced, and the crankshaft main bearings can only be replaced by removing the engine and placing it upside-down on a good engine stand. The biggest problem would be that even if you did successfully replace the piston rod and crankshaft main bearings, it would only take one piece of metal flake that was left over in the engine block to find its way to one of your new bearings and then it will take no time at all before that engine will be right back where you started, and that is how important just the cleaning process is in repairing or replacing internal engine components.

If you do not find any metal in the engine oil or oil filter, then you should attempt to find the actual cause of the knock before you decide how to repair the engine, and you will have to remove the engine oil pan to inspect the rod bearings, and if you do remove the engine oil pan make sure that when you inspect the rod bearings that you only do so one at a time because you can not mix up the rod caps, and be very sure that when you remove a rod cap that you do replace it the same way that it came off, and if you turn around the rod cap and install it the wrong way or scratch the crankshaft bearing surface the rod bearing will fail.

If you can hear the knocking louder from under the vehicle then the most likely causes for a lower end engine knock are a damaged piston, worn out piston rod bearings, a broken piston rod, a broken flex-plate, and sometimes loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts, and the only parts that you can really check out without opening up the engine would be a broken flex-plate, or for any loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts.

If you can hear the knocking more from the top of the engine, then the most likely causes for an upper engine knock would be a faulty lifter, or broken rocker arm, or a broken valve spring allowing the valve to contact the piston, and it will require the removal of the valve covers and possibly the intake manifold to inspect for the problem.

If you have any doubts then it would be a good idea to consider a good used engine that you can hear run before you buy it, or a rebuilt engine for that vehicle.

I hope that this information will help you out and save you some time and a lot of money.

Jun 07, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

2 Answers

Oil pump goes bad what are the symptoms? I was driving and heard a loud noise now my truck is running rough and sluggish and there is no oil pressure at the gauge. There's a loud knocking under the...


It sounds like you have slipped a bearing and you'll need a new engine. You get most of your oil pressure from your connecting rod bearing and crank shaft bearing, you still have some oil pressure. No oil pressure will cause your engines ECM to shut the engine down, but from what you have described. The engine is to far gone for repairs and a engine swap would be the more economical thing to do.
Thank you for using fixya and sorry for the bad news.

May 31, 2010 | 1996 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

How to replace the piston connecting rod on a 1993 chevrolet corsica 3.1L?


If you need to replace a rod, generally you have a bearing problem that requires crankshaft removal/replacement as well. If you have a bad wrist-pin on the small end of the rod or the rod bent from hydro-lock and bearings are good, you need to remove the oil pan and the cylinder head as the piston/rod assembly comes out from the top.
If you have a spun bearing or broken rod, the entire engine needs to be removed, completely torn down and all passages flushed...far easier to replace engine with a good used one.
To do either, you will need a manual to guide you through the process (far too long to write out here) Sorry I need to tell you this but that's just the way it is...better you know before even attempting to do the job.

Aug 27, 2009 | Chevrolet Corsica Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Overhaul of the top in of 2003 jeep 4.7. It had jumped time, broke a valve spring and bent a valve. After the overhaul oil pressure at idle drops to 0 after the engine warms up. No engine noise what so...


First thing you need to do is put a mechanical gauge in place of oil sender and read actual oil pressure. If mechanical gauge shows same condition, take a look at the connecting rod bearing serving the cylinder where the valve bent. If the piston hit the valve hard enough it may have created a flat spot on the bearing that is permitting oil to bypass the bearing, That won't knock right away because the bearing is still supporting the rod, unlike when the bearing bore has worn all the way around, and is loose. Bearings are made from soft metal, so that they can absorb a certain amount of dirt without damaging the crank. Being soft, they can easily be deformed.
If mechanical gauge shows no problems, just replace the original sending unit with a new one..

Aug 06, 2009 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

04 ford ranger rod bearing


Your vehicle timing chain jumped a sprocket
spinning a bearing means that the bearing does not get enough oil between it and, it's rod; causing the "babbet" a soft slippery metal lining the bearing; to heat up and, weld it's self to the crankshaft or. piston rod

May 20, 2009 | 2004 Ford Ranger

Not finding what you are looking for?
1999 Isuzu Rodeo Logo

Related Topics:

70 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Isuzu Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

63242 Answers

Steve Hurc
Steve Hurc

Level 3 Expert

450 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21981 Answers

Are you an Isuzu Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...