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The heater hoses run to the backside of the motor and connect to the heater core on more towards the drivers side of the firewall. If you have rear heat there will be two metal lines that run under the vehicle on the passenger side. Those lines will connect to two rubber hoses that are attached to the rear heater lines that make there way to the rear heater core and connect just in front of the passenger rear tire.
i am assuming you mean heater core, you have to remove the pass rear cargo trim panel and any trim that interlocks to it as well as any connectors then the heater box and hoses from under the vehicle as well as if it has rear ac the ac system needs to be discharged first and those lines removed as well, then remove the box from the vehicle and seperate the case halves and replace the core, the reinstall in the reverse order of removal
A call to the dealership should be able to get you the official name but I would desribe them as the rear heater core lines. These lines basically supply heated engine coolant for the rear heat. A dealership parts dept can pull up a diagram of the vehicle based on the VIN number and give you the exact name and part number.
Hi, this is the heater core for your rear heater. If it's leaking from inside the box, it's likely the core is bad. Please let me know if you would like instructions for replacing the rear heater core. A new core is $92 at autozone, but I would shop around. Make sure you specify the rear or auxiliary when ordering a new new core, as the front core is different.
The plumbing to the rear heater is metal lines under the body and then connect with rubber to the core in the heater, with the age of the van the leak is most likey the metal lines corroded. If you don't need the rear heater operational, the lines can be by-passed in the front of the van [ it will not affect the cooling system].
If the tubes going to the rear heater core are the problem , drain the system and replace the bad tube/tubes. If the actual heater core is leaking and you do not want to go to the expense of replacing it, unhook both tubes at the back of the motor , cut out a good section of hose and use it to loop/connect the outlet line and inlet line on the motor side (not the rear heater core side). This will bypass the rear heater core , the front heater core should be adequate to heat the whole car. If you have a pin hole in a section of solid (copper) tubing, you can cut out the bad section and reconnect it with some heater tube and two hose clamps.
Not sure what information you need, but before you spend a lot of time call the dealer and give them your vin number. It does not matter how many owners, but there was a recall on those lines around that time. If yours is one of them they will replace the whole set of heater and air conditioner at no charge to you.
ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
Remove the foam gasket surrounding the core tubes. NOTE: Notice the orientation of the irregularly shaped gasket on the tubes. The gasket must be placed correctly to ensure proper sealing against the body during reinstallation
Remove the screws and retainers that secure the heater core and tubes to the HVAC housing.
Remove the mode door actuator if necessary for clearance to remove the core.
Lift the heater core straight up and out of the HVAC housing.
When replacing individual tubes, loosen and remove the round tube-to-core clamp, and pull tube from core.
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumbing will reduce the capacity of the entire air conditioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose. In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3 inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant system when the air conditioning compressor is operating. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure that each of the refrigerant system connections is pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once a year to make sure they are in good condition and properly routed.
When installing individual tubes, insert tube into core ensuring that tube O-ring is seated in core and not pinched. Hold tube in seated position while installing the round tube-to-core clamp. NOTE: The round tube-to-heater-core clamp should be left loose enough to turn the tube in the core. Position the core in the housing, and then tighten the tube-to-heater-core clamp after orienting the tubes to the molded HVAC housing.
Lower the heater core into the HVAC housing.
Install the mode door actuator, if removed from housing for core removal.
Position the retainers over the heater core tubes. Install and tighten the screws that secure the heater core and retainers to the HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) . NOTE: The grounding strap is to be attached to the lower heater core tube retainer.