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Re: Front Left Differential ball berrings fell out(???)
Or: I'll bet ya a buck you have a selec-track 4x4. in which case, you need to replace the c/v joint on the bad axle. The joint is encased in a rubber boot... on yours it's likely torn wide open. To remove, first put the spare on that wheel, or remove the center cap from the wheel that's there (small screws on the inside of wheel. Once back on car, with car lowered on ground, remove center nut that holds the axle into the hub. Put the nut on backwards and give it a smack with a hammer to get the axle spline moving free in the hub. Then, lift car up, remove wheel, remove brake caliper & rotor. suspend caliper with a piece of wire or good string so as not to put tension on hose. There are three bolts that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Remove them using the access hole in the wheel flange. Or, some are removed from behind the steering knuckle. (locate them using bolt holes in hub on wheel side as a location reference. the bolt heads are usually 12point.) Use a chisel and lots of wd40 or other solvent, working on seperating hub from knuckle till it comes free. (place chisel at the parting line and use a hammer. Once it begins to come out you can use big screwdrivers to work it the rest of the way out. (careful not to damage it) Remove the backwards nut and slide the bearing hub off. You should be now able to slide the axle out through the bearing hole. Axles with joints assembled are now just about as cheap as just the joint alone. It's much less work to get one. To re-assemble, sand off and lube the bearing hole and mating surface on hub. before replacing bearing, also lube the spline on the axle joint with good grease. Remainder of the job is just putting back what you removed. Torque center nut to 175lbs, replace cover and cotter pin if used on your axle
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sometimes on these vehicles if you dont use the 4wd alot or if it is not disengaged or engaged properly you will develope a click. is there noticeable tire wear on the inside or outside of the tire? if so it could be bad ball joints these vehicles are infamous for it. other problems could be the cv shaft is going out or the differential
Have not done this on your truck but book says just the upper ball joint needs separated. See procedure below from autozone.com. Please let me know if you have questions.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheels (left side should be sufficient in your case)Front hub cotter pin, retainer and nut (axle nut)
Using a floor hydraulic jack, support the lower suspension arm.
Upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nutKnuckle from the front suspension upper arm
Lower the lower suspension arm and steering knuckle slightly to facilitate easier halfshaft removal.
Remove the 2 disc caliper mounting bolts, then lift the front disc caliper off of the front disc brake caliper anchor plate and position aside. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose; suspend it from the vehicle's frame with strong cord or wire.
Remove the 6 front halfshaft-to-differential bolts.
Use care to avoid damaging the hub seal when removing the front halfshaft.
Fig. Halfshaft-to-differential mounting bolts (3 of the 6 bolts shown)-2001-03 F-150 and 2004 F-150 Heritage Edition
7. Remove the inboard end of the halfshaft from the differential case or extension axle case. Separate the front halfshaft and joints from the hub, then remove the halfshaft and joints from the vehicle.
Slide the halfshaft outboard end into the hub, making sure that the splines engage.
Situate the inboard end of the halfshaft against the front differential flange and install the 6 halfshaft-to-differential bolts. Tighten the halfshaft bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (82 Nm).
Install the front disc brake caliper onto the rotor and anchor plate, then install and tighten the 2 caliper mounting bolts to 21-26 ft. lbs. (28-36 Nm).
Lift the lower suspension arm and steering knuckle up until the upper ball joint stud is inserted into the steering knuckle. Install the upper ball joint castle nut and tighten to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
Install the hub nut onto the halfshaft and tighten the hub nut to 221 ft. lbs. (300 Nm).
Install the hub nut retainer and a new cotter pin.
Install the front wheels and tighten the lug nuts in a star-shaped sequence to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).
when removing the front axle i believe that you must open the front differential cover and inside the dana you will see a small 8mm bolt located on the spider gear center it holds the pin bar in place and the pin bar holds both the upper and lower gears in place with a small washer below them. be careful when you pull the pin bar out to make sure the gears stay in place (upper and lower) do not let the washer fall out of the spider cage assembly. Then, carefully slide the U pin that holds the axle in (there are two of them one for the left axle and one for the right). Once the U pin slides off the axle the axle should slide all the way out of the whole differential - Note if the U pin you see at the end of the axle does not come off easy just push the axle IN ward towards the center of the differential and then slide it out with a small screw driver ..
yes it is leaking differential oil and means that your differential gears are dry and winding becuase rubbing against each other you need buy a differential seal kit and clean off old seal taking apart differential and then put neew on then fill with differential fluid you can use the gasket maker if cant buy a gasket but should be done asap or you will burn up the gears and be left without a vehicle
Bad u-joints at front driveline and/or u-joints at axle connection from behind rotors- going into front differential. Need new u-joints at either the driveline front and back (going into differential or to Transfer case) or the Left and Right side axles going into the differential. Put Locking (or "Lock-outs) hubs on front axles... WARN brand are best... about $75 a pair and you can do it yourself, easily.
diff lock displays on dash and is opperated by a dial to the left of the steering column. the center diff lock is operated by a button in the center dash and locks your center differential, making your front and rear driveshafts turn at the same speed. the front and rear differentials lock either your front or rear or both differentials making each wheel on the same axle turn at the same speed. all of these features are for increased traction in off road and wet conditions and situations