I bought the Silverado 1500 2nd hand,(2nd owner), after a year of owning the truck it started to jump in 2 wheel drive, like a drive shaft bolt was missing...garage just called and told me the entire inside of the pu pkin was needing to be replaced and it was ful of metal..I asked why that would happen..a good guess is all I got
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intermittents are sometimes hard to diagnose out !! and this seems as one , im curious though what made them wiggle the relays and fuses ?? was there a previous problem there ?? depending on year of manufacture of car , is weather or not the cars own pcu can help diagnose what made car stop , as later models "remember " what there last condition was that shut off engine , of course this requires diagnostic equipment to see this info that typically car owners don't own , but a qualified service tech does and knows how to use it to find your problem
most if all problems with the chevy 4x4 at the beginning of problems are the electronics the switches they put crap in the truck and wonder why so many problems to anyone whom sees a problem at the start should first and i mean first clean all the contacts on 4x4 switches the two on the dash and then one on transfer case the one inside the dash sits where people sit drinks like coffee then it runs down dash and onto the switch inside dash you need to take it out clean it good i have fixed more 4x4 problems with doing this first you will not hear this from the dealerships they will tell you you need to replace them when all it is that they need a good cleaning i also take the switch on dash apart and clean contacts then the lights work please try contact cleaner first and more times over it will fix your problems
That would be something a person needs to experience first hand.
Does it feel like it coule be bad shocks and the rear is bouncing. That might have also caused the tires to go a little out of round.
Or is it a vibration? Maybe the tires just need to be balanced. Out of balance tires/wheels will vibrate to a certain speed (say 55-65ish) and smooth out as the speed gets higher.
My 95 did the same thing and it ended up being the Transfer case itself there was a missing tooth on a gear inside there.Jack the vehicle up and put it on stands remove the front drive line then spin each of the front tires if you don't hear any noise there then start working your way to the T-case,block the rear wheels very good and set the parking break put the vehicle in neutral and try to spin the output flange to the front axle listen for noises,if still nothing put the rear up on stands also and put it in 4wheel drive and trans in neutral spin rear drive line by hand and listen hopefully that helps to get you started in the right direction
well i had the same problem everyone told me the clutches in the rearend were sticking making it stick in positive traction (only your passanger side rear wheel pulls unless you start spinning then a type of clutch engages the other side so you have traction then when you stop spinning it disengages it should never be engaged if your on pavment) now you can do what i did listen to everyone when they tell you its normal or you can take it to someone with experience now and save yourself some money cause it will start popping then it will get some viberation then next it will break the clutches and when that happens you will have to replace the pinion,ring,and the spider gears as well as the clutches.make sure you have pleanty oil in rearend if you dont add the limited slip conditioner it might free clutches up but if i had it to do over id put it in the shop or stop driving it before i broke something hope this helped
You have a fuel injector problem. It is a known problem to Cryslter. Unless you are a very experienced mechanic, I am not going to recamend you try this one on your own. I have some first hand knowledge of this exact situation.