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Re: NO POWER TO GLOWPLUGS
Check the supply voltage to the heater plugs should have good battery voltage,i suspect a broken wire ,if memory serves me correctly it is near the air filter but dont rely on that i dont anymore.surprised that engine need them to work ,thats the common rail 1 isnt it ?
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I will try to help. Plugging in your truck may set the P012f code in my opinion because this code is set when there is a 12 to 14 degree between antifreeze and oil temperature. However this is a problem under TSB 09-8-3 which recommends you replace the oil cooler, check the egr cooler and flush the cooling system which does not even address using a block heater. Concerns over burnt oil and oil overheating damage.
P341 is cam sensor, P460 and P463 pertain to fuel level sensors and having more fuel than tank should hold. Tank readings having excessive resistance and do not agree with other components. Suspect wiring or connections.
I will put in a comment about glowplug performance and using a block heater. While warming the block will do some good, the actual atomization of the diesel fuel is from the heat of the glowplugs and compression. Water temperature not so much.
The glowplug works on a series. The power module connects to the glowplug timer which regulates the pulses of power to the glowplugs. The duration of each pulse is affected by both outside and block temperature.
I check my glowplugs with a set of battery jumper cables. You put one cable fixed on the casing so as not to nick the threads of the glowplug. Then touch the other end to the top terminal of the glowplug. BE CAREFUL You can melt a glowplug or blow up a battery if you overdo it. Testing is a matter of comparision. Sometimes you can buy 1 new glowplug to see how it should look when hit with power and then see if the other glowplugs are much darker when hit with power. The dark glowplugs are worn or worn out.
Remember when you hear the timer cycle and the lights in the vehicle blink in unision. That is all the power your glowplugs are going to get. So if they do not glow quickly on your test, it will affect atomization of the fuel for starting.
Hope this helps, there may be glowplug testers that were invented after I retired.
Since some of your starting problem can be when you need the glowplug timer to work. There is a power relay which supplies power to the glowplug timer. After the engine warms up, the timer has little to do with starting.
You could also need new, clean glowplugs. When you do need the glowplugs to work, they can only get power for a fraction of the time that the timer works. If the glowplugs are worn or dirty, the glowplugs may not heat sufficiently to ignite the diesel fuel.
If this is a diesel, the glowplugs are in the heads similar to how sparkplugs are installed.
You should first check several other parts. The glowplugs get their power from a Timer. The Timer sometimes is combined with a power relay or the power relay is separate. The power relay is turned on by a signal from the Ignition switch.
So if the Timer, Power Relay, or power feed off the Ignition switch, is defective, the glowplugs will not work.
Check one of the wires to the glowplugs with a Voltmeter. The Timer will send several pulses to the glowplugs and then need to cool off.
The glowplugs only work for a few minutes for the initial start.
If the above parts are good, then check the glowplugs by removing and using battery jumper cables.
Clamp one to the base of the glowplug avoiding the threads, then briefly touch the top of the glowplug with the other polarity jumper.
Caution--you can melt them. Just observe if one stays dark longer than another. A dark glowplug is bad, a bright glowplug is good. Its all relative.
You can get a wiring diagram free at Autozone.com for most cars. You need to register on the site free and then scroll to the bottom of the Web page.
There may be a reference to how the Glowplugs are wired and it is possible that they are wired as pairs from the Timer box. This would mean that 1/2 the Timer box is shorted out or that a Relay that controls just that pair of glowplugs is a bad Relay. If there are 2 Relays for the Glowplugs, just swap them and see if the problem moves to a new pair of cylinders. This would confirm a bad Relay.
You may also have a bad ground. Look to see the wiring for the ground circuit. This would be a good bet if each pair is separately grounded. You could also have a problem with not replacing all 4 as a set. I do not know what VW recommends for this.
Perhaps you should test the Glowplugs. You test them by fixing a battery jumper clamp to the bottom of the casing of the Glowplug avoiding the threads. Then briefly touch the top of the Glowplug with the power cable of the Plus charge. Be careful not to melt the part.
The Glowplug should glow equally between the set. They should not stay dark. And remember, the Timer only has seconds to work. That is all the time the Glowplugs have to vaporize the fuel.
This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.
The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.
To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.
You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.
You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.
The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.
The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.
There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.
I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.
Quick lesson Diesel 101, repair only what is broken. There is no reason to replace glowplugs if they work. There are other things that make the glowplugs work or fail to work.
You should be able to follow the wires from the glowplugs up to a box or module. This module is a timer. Its job is to vary the length of time the glowplugs work depending on atmospheric temperature and engine temperature. Then follow the wires from the timer module to a power relay. This part receives the signal from the ignition switch and transfers high power to the timer module.
Only when these are checked, should you blame the glowplugs. For glowplug testing you take them out and use battery jumper cables. You hook one terminal to the base and avoid crushing the threads. You then touch the other battery cable to the top of the glowplug. You can melt them, so do not overdo it.
When you find the brightest, that is your benchmark. Bad glow plugs only have as long as the timer allows for them to glow. Replace the darker ones, use the brighter ones.
Other than that point, glowplugs have no adjustment and come out like regular sparkplugs.
Hello, The diesel engine relies on Glowplugs for the first start in the Morning or a cold start at anytime.
The Glowplugs themselves can be bad, but there is a Timer which determines how long the Glowplugs will stay on. Before the Timer is a Glowplug Relay which gives the Timer its power to operate. The Ignition switch provides power to the Glowplug Relay.
You disconnect a Glowplug wire, put on a test instrument (either a testlight or Voltmeter) and look to see what happens when you initiate a start. If the testlight lights and cycles a few times like a pulse, then the power supply is good. If not inspect the Timer and Glowplug Relay for continuity
If all the pulses seem to reach the Glowplugs, then most likely the Glowplugs are worn out. Test by removing then and connecting battery jumpers. Briefly touch the top terminal of the Glowplug with the Hot cable after grounding the negative cable on the base of the Glowplug, avoiding the threads.
You can melt a Glowplug. But if you find the Glowplug staying dark, then it is bad. Do this for all the Glowplugs and replace the bad ones. Remember the Glowplug only has the amount of time the Timer gives it to work. So if a few pulses do not make it Glow, then replace it. This should fix you up.
Its either one of 2 things. A shorted glowplug is backfeeding and shutting off the timer or the timer is bad. You should start by removing the glowplugs and testing them.
The glowplugs can melt with this test so don't overdo it. Use a set of battery jumper cables and put the NEG on the metal case without damaging the threads. Then take the POS cable and touch the top of the glowplug. Its a matter of comparision. A dark glowplug is cold or dead. When you get a good one you will see an intense glow. Replace the bad ones.
After reinstalling the glowplugs try starting your car. If it still does not work well trace all of the glowplug wires up to a timer box. There should be a Power source going into the Timer. Measure the Voltage going to the Timer. If it is less than Battery Voltage follow the Power wire to a Relay. The Relay may be in the blackbox full of Relays under the hood or independently hung next to the Timer. Sometimes thoughtful Engineers put labels under the lid for each component. Check the plugin sockets for corrosion or replace the Relay for the glowplug Timer.
If you had battery Voltage at the Timer most likely the Timer is bad. The Timer should keep your glowplugs on longer the colder the outside temperature is. The exception is a warm engine. Good luck on your repair. I hope you find my solution very helpful.