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Re: NO POWER TO GLOWPLUGS
Check the supply voltage to the heater plugs should have good battery voltage,i suspect a broken wire ,if memory serves me correctly it is near the air filter but dont rely on that i dont anymore.surprised that engine need them to work ,thats the common rail 1 isnt it ?
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If this is a diesel, the glowplugs are in the heads similar to how sparkplugs are installed.
You should first check several other parts. The glowplugs get their power from a Timer. The Timer sometimes is combined with a power relay or the power relay is separate. The power relay is turned on by a signal from the Ignition switch.
So if the Timer, Power Relay, or power feed off the Ignition switch, is defective, the glowplugs will not work.
Check one of the wires to the glowplugs with a Voltmeter. The Timer will send several pulses to the glowplugs and then need to cool off.
The glowplugs only work for a few minutes for the initial start.
If the above parts are good, then check the glowplugs by removing and using battery jumper cables.
Clamp one to the base of the glowplug avoiding the threads, then briefly touch the top of the glowplug with the other polarity jumper.
Caution--you can melt them. Just observe if one stays dark longer than another. A dark glowplug is bad, a bright glowplug is good. Its all relative.
You can get a wiring diagram free at Autozone.com for most cars. You need to register on the site free and then scroll to the bottom of the Web page.
There may be a reference to how the Glowplugs are wired and it is possible that they are wired as pairs from the Timer box. This would mean that 1/2 the Timer box is shorted out or that a Relay that controls just that pair of glowplugs is a bad Relay. If there are 2 Relays for the Glowplugs, just swap them and see if the problem moves to a new pair of cylinders. This would confirm a bad Relay.
You may also have a bad ground. Look to see the wiring for the ground circuit. This would be a good bet if each pair is separately grounded. You could also have a problem with not replacing all 4 as a set. I do not know what VW recommends for this.
Perhaps you should test the Glowplugs. You test them by fixing a battery jumper clamp to the bottom of the casing of the Glowplug avoiding the threads. Then briefly touch the top of the Glowplug with the power cable of the Plus charge. Be careful not to melt the part.
The Glowplug should glow equally between the set. They should not stay dark. And remember, the Timer only has seconds to work. That is all the time the Glowplugs have to vaporize the fuel.
This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.
The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.
To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.
You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.
You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.
The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.
The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.
There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.
I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.
Quick lesson Diesel 101, repair only what is broken. There is no reason to replace glowplugs if they work. There are other things that make the glowplugs work or fail to work.
You should be able to follow the wires from the glowplugs up to a box or module. This module is a timer. Its job is to vary the length of time the glowplugs work depending on atmospheric temperature and engine temperature. Then follow the wires from the timer module to a power relay. This part receives the signal from the ignition switch and transfers high power to the timer module.
Only when these are checked, should you blame the glowplugs. For glowplug testing you take them out and use battery jumper cables. You hook one terminal to the base and avoid crushing the threads. You then touch the other battery cable to the top of the glowplug. You can melt them, so do not overdo it.
When you find the brightest, that is your benchmark. Bad glow plugs only have as long as the timer allows for them to glow. Replace the darker ones, use the brighter ones.
Other than that point, glowplugs have no adjustment and come out like regular sparkplugs.
Hello, The diesel engine relies on Glowplugs for the first start in the Morning or a cold start at anytime.
The Glowplugs themselves can be bad, but there is a Timer which determines how long the Glowplugs will stay on. Before the Timer is a Glowplug Relay which gives the Timer its power to operate. The Ignition switch provides power to the Glowplug Relay.
You disconnect a Glowplug wire, put on a test instrument (either a testlight or Voltmeter) and look to see what happens when you initiate a start. If the testlight lights and cycles a few times like a pulse, then the power supply is good. If not inspect the Timer and Glowplug Relay for continuity
If all the pulses seem to reach the Glowplugs, then most likely the Glowplugs are worn out. Test by removing then and connecting battery jumpers. Briefly touch the top terminal of the Glowplug with the Hot cable after grounding the negative cable on the base of the Glowplug, avoiding the threads.
You can melt a Glowplug. But if you find the Glowplug staying dark, then it is bad. Do this for all the Glowplugs and replace the bad ones. Remember the Glowplug only has the amount of time the Timer gives it to work. So if a few pulses do not make it Glow, then replace it. This should fix you up.
Hello, I operated a Ford diesel through Michigan Winters. There are usually issues with the Glowplug Timer or the Power Relay to it. If not that, then you probably have a bleeddown issue in the fuel system.
If you trace the wires off the Glowplugs, it will lead to the Glowplug Timer and then the next part is the Glowplug Power Relay. If you take off one Glowplug wire and put the Hot lead of a Voltmeter or test light on the wire and ground the other testing device terminal you can test it.
Just place the testing device where you can see it or have a helper observe it. Then try a normal startup. The test equipment should show that power is going through the wire. The power should pulse a few times and then stop. If you have NO power at that point, you need to follow the wiring I mentioned earlier and find out where the power stops. That part should be the bad part. You want to restore power to the Glowplugs.
If the wires to the Glowplugs have power, there is the remote possibility the Glowplugs are burned out. To test them yourself, they can be removed and connected to jumper cables and briefly energized. The Glowplugs that stay dark are bad.
The fuel system is another matter. First try a new fuel filter to replace a water clogged filter. It is also beneficial to find that fuel is in the fuel filter and that it is not dry. If the fuel filter is dry, then you most likely are bleeding off your fuel overnight. This will require testing the fuel line by using either a Vacuum tester or air compressor and removing and plugging one line end. The line should not leak.
Diesels absolutely require the Glowplugs to work and they work shorter periods in hot temperatures. You just have the pulses to heat up the Glowplugs. So if the Glowplugs are weak, it will show up in hot weather too.
As for the Injection pump, there are Electric solenoids in some which sometimes respond to a "tap" to get them going again. This will mean pump repair to finally repair it. A Diesel shop can also measure output pressure, which , I want to say can be 1300PSI. Beyond the capability of an Owner to do himself.
I hope this helps you and I would be very interested to know what you found.
Hello, Its just like changing sparkplugs. First, you should check the timer for proper operation before blaming the glowplugs. The timer is the part where the wires on the glowplugs come from. Its' the Timers job to heat up the glowplugs and there is a Relay which activates the timer.
Once the Timer gets power from the Relay, it sends spark to the glowplugs and measures the amount of juice flowing through the glowplugs. When a predetermined limit is achieved, the Timer shuts down and sets a light on the dashboard that you can start the engine.
If you have a bad glowplug, that cylinder will not fire cold and the engine will miss, run rough , and spew black smoke out the tailpipe. A complete changeout of the glowplugs will solve the problem, but individual glowplugs can be tested and changed independently at a lower cost.
To test a glowplug, you can use jumper cables and apply voltage to the glowplug in limited amounts or you will melt the glowplug. Best to place the negative on the base and avoid the threads. Then touch the top of the glowplug and watch to see how quick it turns bright. Its a matter of comparison, and the darker the glowplug stays, the worse it is.
There is no adjustment on the glowplug, just swap them out and you will be fine. I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You can check the Timer with a voltmeter by removing a glowplug wire and hooking the hot lead from your meter and grounding the other wire on your engine. When you turn the key to the warmup position, the meter should briefly show power.
Its either one of 2 things. A shorted glowplug is backfeeding and shutting off the timer or the timer is bad. You should start by removing the glowplugs and testing them.
The glowplugs can melt with this test so don't overdo it. Use a set of battery jumper cables and put the NEG on the metal case without damaging the threads. Then take the POS cable and touch the top of the glowplug. Its a matter of comparision. A dark glowplug is cold or dead. When you get a good one you will see an intense glow. Replace the bad ones.
After reinstalling the glowplugs try starting your car. If it still does not work well trace all of the glowplug wires up to a timer box. There should be a Power source going into the Timer. Measure the Voltage going to the Timer. If it is less than Battery Voltage follow the Power wire to a Relay. The Relay may be in the blackbox full of Relays under the hood or independently hung next to the Timer. Sometimes thoughtful Engineers put labels under the lid for each component. Check the plugin sockets for corrosion or replace the Relay for the glowplug Timer.
If you had battery Voltage at the Timer most likely the Timer is bad. The Timer should keep your glowplugs on longer the colder the outside temperature is. The exception is a warm engine. Good luck on your repair. I hope you find my solution very helpful.
It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.
If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.
Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.
Diesels need Glowplugs only for starting. After that, the compression operates the engine. The Timer for the Glowplugs regulates how long the Glowplugs work each cycle. You may have to test the Glowplugs if they get power but do not work.
Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.