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Usually no. You can try an additive like seafoam to see if that will clean it out but under normal circumstance, you will have to pull the motor to clean it out. Also, you need to make sure you have the right bearing (They are usually marked with colored paint) someone could have used a larger bearing on that con rod before and you may not have know and installed the wrong size. Only way to tell for sure is to use plastigauge.
Before you flush it, check to make sure your oil doesn't have coolant in it. From your description of your coolant, sounds like there's oil in it.. which is indication of a head gasket leak. Have it pressured tested first before doing your flush. Coolant shouldn't be "brown & thick"
This is a sign of an aging vehicle, but not to worry, it can be helped if not cured completely. Normally this is caused by sticking lifters from carbon buildup in your oil. First check the level of your oil, make sure you havnt been running on half capacity. Then I would recommend going to the auto parts store and purchasing an oil additive like sea-foam or one that says it helps with sticky lifters and engine knock. Add this to your oil in the appropriate amount. Drive for a couple hundred miles or until the noise gets better. After that, change your oil, and dont use the additive with the new oil. this should last for quite a while, but with an aging car, you may have to do this once or twice a year, or perhaps every time just before you change your oil.
Checked brakes for possible wheel(s) dragging, as well as tire pressures up to max recommended pressure, and observe if tire wear unusual, signifying improper alignment? Any difference in engine oil grade used?
No need for a diagram, to drain the oil, there's a drain plug on the bottom of the transfer box, under the handbrake drum. To fill, the fill plug is about in line with the centre of the handbrake drum and to the left. I think both plugs are 1/2" square. Fill to overflow with Texaco Multi-Gear 75W/90R. Takes about 2L or so.