My 99 Plymouth grand voyager has a recurring brakes problem. The brakes usually go in all the way. The master cylinder and proportion valve have been changed. The car has been fixed by 3 different mechanics and after a while like a month the brakes fail again.They all say the car is not leaking brake fluid. If I get them bled without any other fix, they last 3 days only.
Fixed--- I don't think so !!
3 Mechanics-that is sad
How about the power brake booster?
Was that checked & the vacuum check valve okey?
You wouldn't be happy if that solved the issue & you
got the valve off the wall on a trip thru the parts store
& installed yourself
What about ABS Issues?
What happens if you command the valves open
with a scan tool,bleed system & test drive with scanner
and valves still open or disconnect the motor to it & drive
around a few days.
I remember a load leveler valve under the back on
the drivers side on some caravans?
The fluid has to go somewhere,if not back into the reservoir,
then the abs unit maybe.
Better check the not leaking part yourself, unless you don't
loose any fluid
You bleed them there okey for 3 days,why,that is the key,
then what?
I am not very technical but I am going to a friend of mine who is a mechanic today and I will have him check the things you told me up here. When they get bled and run for 3 days, they just start becoming soft and then the pedal goes all the way in. Also if I want to stop I was told I should not pump them because they are ABS. I was told to just press all the way in. The problem is it takes way long for the car to stop. It also kind of pulls to the right if I do it hard as if the right front wheel is stopping before the other wheels. I also hear and feel like a scraping sound through the pedal. When they are bled and they are working for a few days, the ABS light comes on sometimes and then disappears especially if I overuse the brakes in traffic.
You have all sorts of problems that you never mentioned The rubber brake hosed have never been replace & the rotors need machining & new pad & possibly new calipers. You never talked about the ABS light. I mistakenly thought every conceivable thing was replaced because of age. You never had any brke work done by anyone that knew what to do ,Sorry about that. You only have very basic preventative maintenance & repairs to do. You waited too many years & the fluid has to be changed every 2 years or the system get ruined from moisture.
Three mechanics, a master cylinder that most likely was good & a valve that never fails,how could all that happen to one person 3 times? You need to find a quality shop or have you friend work on it at home or something. You problems are simple basic things that should never have been let go so long
UPDATE: The car was bled again and lasted a week. Eventually the mechanic(another one) still thought it was a master cylinder but I told him it had been changed. He bled the car again and the brake pedal was hard for 4 days. When I took it back and the ABS light came on, he said it must be the ABS module and said it costs around $700 just to buy the unit and labor will be additional . I don't think I want to spend that kind of money. I have been searching around online and I found other people saying there is away to recycle the ABS in case air is trapped in it. Check this link a where a person with a grand caravan had a similar problem.http://www.fixya.com/cars/t3966131-brake...
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SOURCE: 1999 plymouth voyager brakes
the master cylinder needs to be "bench-bled" before installation, if you are doing this and still having the problem, did you look into changing the rear brakes as well? check rear wheel cylinders for any small leaks
SOURCE: ABS LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON
please replace the rear brake shoes with brand new, not relined, purchased from the dealer. Also, replace all the rear brake hardware, springs, etc.
SOURCE: How much would it cost to replace the master
You can do the job by yourself with the help of someone who have already done it. Mechanical part of the job is not difficult, but for clearing of the ait from lines you need two people(one pressing the brake paddle and one working under the car). Personaly I recomend to buy a new master cylinder. It is important part for your safety, it is master part in your brake system. If this part fails you won't be able to brake. You can get a lot of parts at junk yard but for your safety I don't recomend this one. I would by a new one and get someone experience to help me with replacement. It will take for about 2-3 hours. Otto
SOURCE: i have a 98 plymouth
If you hear air, it is probably a failed diaphram in your booster. When you say you had good pedal, that was with engine off, right. Then, with engine on it goes to the floor. Does it still go to the floor with engine off? If no, it is the booster. Let me know if this isn't it or you have more questions.
SOURCE: i have a1997 plymouth grand
Hi, the problem is usually the brake wheel cylinder inside. Put the car in park but do not set the brake. Jack up the wheel and remove the wheel and drum. At the top of the hub assembly you will see a cylinder between the tops of the shoes with rubber boots on each side. If fluid leaks out when you pull back the edge of either boot, the cylinder is leaking and must be replaced.
Purchase a new cylinder and also some brake fluid if you don't have any on hand. Check your reservoir. Hopefully it is not empty, or you would have drawn air into the system. Fill up the reservoir before replacing the wheel cylinder.
To replace, use a vice grip plier to remove the return spring that holds the shoe tops together, then pull the shoe tops away from the cylinder. Place something under the hub to catch the fluid that will leak during the replacement.
Loosen the hydraulic fitting on the back of the hub using a line wrench of the correct size, then remove the 2 bolts holding the cylinder to the hub (see picture below). Have the new cylinder handy and disconnect the line from the old cylinder. Quickly remove the old cylinder and put in the new one. Screw the line fitting on finger tight and then replace the bolts. Replace the return spring between the shoes. Tighten the line and open the bleeder valve above the fitting about one turn. The line may gravity bleed the air out. Give it a few minutes. If clear fluid starts to leak out and no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and reassemble the wheel. If it does not gravity bleed, replace the drum and have someone assist with a pressure bleed. With the bleeder closed, have the assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold it down while you open and close the bleeder. They should not let up on the pedal until you have closed the bleeder. repeat this process of ejecting air and fluid until only fluid comes out. Then replace the wheel and let the car down.
Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
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