I get the temp to warm and then it goes below cold and have any heat either.it stays at this temp.i don't know if the engine gets hot but i can take the radiaor cap off ,its cold and the the car been running for a hour!
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Not sure I follow your wording on the different temps. If the system is full of coolant and working correctly, the thermostat should open at 195 degrees which would be several miles down the road. Once the thermostat opens both radiator hoses should be warm. If the water pump is not working the engine will get hot very quickly.
Have you tried running without the thermostat to see what happens ?
I believe the mazda protege has a separate thermoswitch to activate the radiator's fan. Perhaps the fan keeps blowing until the temperature is too low. Try replacing the fan thermoswitch. Just take care to put in tis place a thermoswitch of the same temperature range.
Yes, the temperature gauge should normally stop in the middle, between the cold and hot points on the gauge. When the engine is cold the thermostat will be closed and will keep recirculating the coolant in the engine block until it warms up sufficiently. Then the temperature of the warm coolant will cause the thermostat to open the channel to the radiator to get rid of excess heat, which should stop the coolant from over heating. So the effect of the thermostat keeps the coolant at a fairly stable temperature. When the coolant runs low, it can't transfer enough heat to the radiator and the coolant and engine then over heats. Watch for radiator leaks under your car after you have been driving it. If the coolant goes low again fairly quickly you could have a leak in a hose or the radiator itself.
Your temp sensor has nothing to do with your heater. The temp sensor needs coolant in order to work properly. So first check the coolant level because if it is low your heater will act the way you describe. Once the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold. Another possibility is the radiator cap. After the engine has warmed up it expands when it cools down it contracts. As it is contracting if the cap is weak air can be drawn into the system and cause air pockets to form and will cause the same problem
Air can be purged. While your engine is cool remove radiator and reservoir caps. Place funnel in radiator. Turn heat to the highest position and start vehicle. Add coolant to radiator as needed while vehicle warms up. You should see bubbles coming out of radiator. Fill reservoir to between cold and hot fill lines. Replace caps when bubbling stops but before coolant temperature reaches normal operating temperature. Never remove the radiator cap until engine has fully cooled down.
It may be the valve that controls the amount of water entering heating core but I'm wondering if your engine thermostat isn't stuck open. This is what controls the coolant temperature in your engine. It closes off while engine is off. It will remain closed after you start your car until the water warms to a certain temperature then it starts to open enough to keep your car at the proper operating temperature. If it stick open then it will take a lot longer for the engine to heat up and on smaller cars might never heat up enough for your heater. If you live in very cold climates such as where I live in Wyoming, we have to change to a higher degree thermostat so we have a good heater when it's 30 below zero.
Be very cautious here but one way you can check this is to put a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator and stop the airflow that cools your engine coolant. THIS WILL CAUSE YOUR CAR TO HEAT UP AND CAN CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE IF IT OVERHEATS. Don't completely cover the radiator but if your heater warms up when you put the cardboard in front of radiator it's a good sign that your thermostat is stuck open and needs to be replaced.
In general I know of no reason per se to replace the thermostat and
temp sensor because you replaced the radiator fan. If the temp gauge
seems to be staying in the 1/3-2/3 of full scale, and there is no
apparent engine control issues as the engine warms from cold to
operating temperature then there is no obvious reason to replace those
items. Other than fan motor failure is there any reason for you to
believe these other parts are at fault?You can get a free fault code
readout at an Autozone parts store which would highlight a temp sensor
problem, but there is no fault code for the thermostat except maybe the
one for engine running cold for too long a time after start up. You
could also check the resistance of the temp sensor which should run
around 10-14,000 ohms when cold and drop to 700-1,000 ohms when warmed
I don't know about the issue of replacing the thermostat because I
don't know which engine you are working with. So let me know an