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Re: charging problem 1991 volvo 240
14.6 means your voltage regulator or diode is suspect Despite having new alternator .Ive cross refrenced your smptoms in the haynes workshop manual and alternator is your only end answer.The haynes test is to start vehicle with multi meter connected across the battery terminals,increase the engine speed until the reading remains steady should be approximately 12 to 13v and no more than 14v.switch on as many accessories as possible(headlights heater blower radio etc)check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14v.If the regulated voltage is not as stated then alternator is to be repaired/replaced.Good luck with it and a happy new year.
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Is it possible you have a blown fusible link? Wiring diagram should show where these are located. You say the small red wire is zero volts with key on. Is this the wire that supplies "exciter" volts to alt? If so, it should be 12 volts at key on I think.
Yes that is true BUT
most of the time this is simply a dirty cable to battery connection.
Did you clean the cable connection down to silver color inside when you changed the batt? Folks buy new batts all the time when all they needed to do was clean and tighten them.
With the engine running put volt meter test leads one to ground and on each side of of alt out wires one then the other. should be 13+ volts
then put them on each side of battery and it should be the same. If not take it to the Auto PARTS store and have them check the alt for free.
I need year--make--model--engine size.
Usually the alternator needs excite voltage or no charge. The alternator bat terminal should be hot all the time, even with key off, if it isn't, something wrong with that wire circuit.
This sounds like the alt is not charging, but a eak battery will also cause this condition, what you can do is have the charging system tested. if you have a volt meter you can connect it to the battery with engine running and acc off you should have 13.5-15 volts,this is a good alternator, then turn on all acc and check it, it may have a low reading but should atleast go to 13volts and then when you rev it up it should go to 13.5 - 14.7. if the readings are low replace alternator.
sounds like the trunk light switch may have gotten knocked loose .. that would leave the trunk light on all the time and would run the battery down in a few days even if fully charged to start with .. you can take out the trunk light to test that theory .. the alternator will only put out what is needed and thats probably 30 amps with everything on .. to test its maximum capacity you need to hook up an external load and you have to run the engine at a specified RPM ... for a quick test.. if your alternator maintains about 13.2 volts at idle with everything turned on .. then its gererally working ok ..
May I can put a nail in this one for you.The problem is your alternator. The proper charge rate is 13.6 to 14.2v Now get this. The higher the voltage, the lower the amps.Voltage @ the 14.2 end is moving the minimum amps. @ 15 v there os no charging happenning. Go to the other end and you'll find at 12v the alternator is puring the coals to the battery Alt @ max output. The difference between 12 and 13 / 14 and 15 is the is like a buffer. If the alt charges @ less than 13v for any length of time, It goes poof because of excessive heat.which is an indicator the battery is possibly ready to go poof also. Alt. function as a source of maintenance charging when deman is low and a compensator when demand goes up. That is why a low cranking amp battery is for lawnmowers and people that like buying batts and alts.Now, solution! Have your battery load tested. Chances are real good that it is not up to par. Hence, overworked alternator. If so, replace it. 650 to 850 cold crank amps rating . (cca ) Then have your alt tested output checked if you you end up with a new batt. If your alt puts oout in the given range, which should be around but not below 13v) After starting, it will charge heavy to make up for the cracking, but should get up around 13.6v within 15 seconds. Alts charge at all speeds, unlike generators of old which needed speed (rpms) to put out power. Alts do all the thinking and have internal regulators. Well anyway, You didn't ask for a course in Automotive electrical just a course of action. Remember, Battery first ten alt. Good luck. Any autozone or checker parts store can do all that checking for you. -Ned-
Remove and clean battery cables , replace bolts. Check for power going to the alt. it will not charge unless is has power in the connector wire. When alt is tested get them to tell you how many amps it is putting out, not volts. 12 volts will not charge a battery unless you have the correct amount of amps. I had a napa alt and had this trouble twice. The guy said it was good it had over 12 volts output, but it would not charge battery. I fixed mine with a better quality alt. from another store.
start put volt meter on batt. should be between 13-15.5 volts if not alt. could be defect,if no meter pull neg. cable off batt. while its running be carefull! not to touch anything with cable, if truck stalls,alt,is probably defect!