Question about 1991 Volvo 240

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Charging problem 1991 volvo 240

New alt. batt. when running batt cable off shows 13.8-14.6 v

put cable on volts go down 12.6-lower rev eng. volts go down

using lights / flashers after awhile gets weak / cuttig out

lights dim not enough voltage to run .bat. still shows 12 + volts

will not do any thing /chang batt. start right up ...

i have checked ground post to cable for drain nothing all fuses good

checked wire ends ok with cable on reading at alt is low does not pick

up at rev eng. volts on fuses seam to be good no overload

every thing works fine till volts drain . batt dont lose charge when not

running i am lost /stumped / mindbogled/##$%&**

can you help send e mail

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  • kidsmake10 Jan 08, 2009

    Same Problem - 1993 240 Volvo Wagon. New Alternator, New Battery. Lights and accessories off, voltage reads 13 to 14.5 volts. Rev engine, voltage goes down, turn on lights and voltage drops to about 12 which I think it is supposed to. Lights dim while driving, radio flickers on and off, idiot lights flicker, amps drop in battery until nothing works. Wondering if there is a problem with the battery even though it is new, possibly not holding a charge. Also, I have a static draw of 2.4 amps if I am using my amp meter correctly which is high, but it remains with all fuses out, which make me think maybe the battery or I am not measuring correctly.



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14.6 means your voltage regulator or diode is suspect Despite having new alternator .Ive cross refrenced your smptoms in the haynes workshop manual and alternator is your only end answer.The haynes test is to start vehicle with multi meter connected across the battery terminals,increase the engine speed until the reading remains steady should be approximately 12 to 13v and no more than 14v.switch on as many accessories as possible(headlights heater blower radio etc)check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14v.If the regulated voltage is not as stated then alternator is to be repaired/replaced.Good luck with it and a happy new year.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008


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May I can put a nail in this one for you.The problem is your alternator. The proper charge rate is 13.6 to 14.2v Now get this. The higher the voltage, the lower the amps.Voltage @ the 14.2 end is moving the minimum amps. @ 15 v there os no charging happenning. Go to the other end and you'll find at 12v the alternator is puring the coals to the battery Alt @ max output. The difference between 12 and 13 / 14 and 15 is the is like a buffer. If the alt charges @ less than 13v for any length of time, It goes poof because of excessive heat.which is an indicator the battery is possibly ready to go poof also. Alt. function as a source of maintenance charging when deman is low and a compensator when demand goes up. That is why a low cranking amp battery is for lawnmowers and people that like buying batts and alts.Now, solution! Have your battery load tested. Chances are real good that it is not up to par. Hence, overworked alternator. If so, replace it. 650 to 850 cold crank amps rating . (cca ) Then have your alt tested output checked if you you end up with a new batt. If your alt puts oout in the given range, which should be around but not below 13v) After starting, it will charge heavy to make up for the cracking, but should get up around 13.6v within 15 seconds. Alts charge at all speeds, unlike generators of old which needed speed (rpms) to put out power. Alts do all the thinking and have internal regulators. Well anyway, You didn't ask for a course in Automotive electrical just a course of action. Remember, Battery first ten alt. Good luck. Any autozone or checker parts store can do all that checking for you. -Ned-

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