Anyone know if you can replace the rear differential driveshaft seal without removing and dissasembling the differential carrier? My Haynes manual only shows how to do axleshaft seals. It appears there is a nut inside the driveshaft flange.
Hello,you need to remove driveshaft to be able to get to the nut.Remove the nut (MAY BE VERY TIGHT) and pull the yoke or flange as you called it out & you can pop old seal out & new seal in.You may want to smear a tiny bit of grease or vasoline on outside of seal for easier installation & also on the rubber part of seal so itwon't get damaged when you re-install the yoke.Hope this helps.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Chockblock front wheels to prevent truck rolling, and jack vehicle up and place a jackstand under frame to prevent vehicle falling. Remove driveshaft, seal is now visible to be pried out for new one to be lightly tapped into place with a rubber mallet or hammer, along with a wooden block, taking care to keep new seal straight while replacing. replace driveshaft and check fluid level, lower vehicle and remove chockblocks.
There are several seals for the differential. The pinion seal is towards the driveshaft. The rear cover is on the back of the differential.
The rear cover seal is a gasket and can be replaced by removing the rear cover and scraping off the old gasket. Some mechanics make their own gasket out of a liberal application of atv gasket compound. Other mechanics use a stamped gasket and may apply a small amount of cement to one side of the gasket to hold it to the cover.
The cover is bolted on by Torx head fittings.
The pinion seal is another matter. The driveshaft needs to come off. The flange needs to come away from the differential and the seal rides the shaft going into the differential. Some housings require a removal tool.
With either seal, you need to determine the type of differential you have. Limited -slip requires an additive to work in the standard lube. Some require only synthetic gear lube as well as the additive.
A cover gasket is not very hard to replace. The pinion seal can be more difficult. Price the repair.
The fluid splattered all over is most likely coming from the pinion seal. (The seal at the front of the differential where the driveshaft yoke goes in.) Normally, you would remove the driveshaft and the pinion yoke to relace the seal. The grinding however, leads me to believe that the seal leaking is a RESULT not a CAUSE of your problem. The way you describe it sounds like you may have some serious pinion and/or ring gear damage inside the differential.
If this is the case, there are severl ways to go about repairing this. You could tear your differential apart and replace the defective/damaged parts inside. You could replace your differential with a used one from a salvage yard. You could replace your differential with a remanufactured differential assembly.
To check for damage, remove the rear cover from the differential and check for metal in the oil and in the bottom of the housing. You can also turn the ring gear around and check for broken teeth. You can also inspect the spider gears and pinion gear for damage.
The cover gasket is silicone and is not designed to be serviced without removing the differential assembly.You will need to remove axles , driveshaft , and maybe the spare tire to get differential out.
Remove the driveshaft. You need an impact gun to remove the pinion yoke nut. Pull the yoke out and replace the seal. Make sure you tighten the pinion nut to the correct torque spec. (The dealer can tell you how tight it needs to be.)
I searched under 1997 lincoln continental and found this:
Driveshaft and U-Joints REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Town Car and Mark VII-VIII
Fig. 1: The bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange require a 12mm, 12 point wrench or socket to loosen them
Fig. 2: Remove the bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange
Fig. 3: Separate the driveshaft from the axle flange and . . .
Fig. 4: . . . disengage the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft
Fig. 5: Insert a plug onto the splines of the transmission output shaft to prevent fluid from leaking out
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Mark the position of the driveshaft yoke on the axle companion flange so they can be reassembled in the same way to maintain balance.
Remove the flange bolts and disconnect the driveshaft from the axle companion flange.
Allow the rear of the driveshaft to drop down slightly.
Pull the driveshaft and slip yoke rearward until the yoke just clears the transmission extension housing seal. Mark the position of the slip yoke in relation to the transmission output shaft, then remove the driveshaft.
Plug the transmission to prevent fluid leakage.
Lubricate the yoke splines with suitable grease.
Remove the plug from the transmission and inspect the extension housing seal; replace if necessary.
Align the slip yoke and output shaft with the marks made at removal and install the yoke into the transmission extension housing. Be careful not to bottom the slip yoke hard against the transmission seal.
Rotate the axle flange, as necessary, to align the marks made during removal.
Install the driveshaft yoke to the axle flange. Install the bolts and tighten to 71–95 ft. lbs. (95–130 Nm).
put flat pan under the housing remove the bolts holding the cover usually 10 or 12 (1/2 or #12 metric) bolts? allow the rear end grease to drain... then scape off the old gasket clean with brake cleaner spray install either new gasket or form one with oil resistant silicone put the cover back on , dont refill the fliud for at least 12 hours if using silicone. Also check the front driveshaft rear end yoke seal....they sometimes leak making the illusion of a rear end pan cover leak...if that is leaking you remove the shaft carefully...remove the large yoke retaining nut, replace the press in seal...be sure retaining yoke nut is properly torqued when reinstalling .
Your rear emergency brakes could be hung up. Especially if a parking valet or someone else parked it recently.
You need to jack up both rear wheels and then put your car into neutral with the motor OFF. If the rear wheels can not be manually turned it is either the emergency brakes, the differential or the transmission.
The emergency brakes require removing the back tires and rotors. If it is still locked, then it is either the differential or the trans. The driveshaft connects the trans to the differential so remove the driveshaft. If the differential turns without the driveshaft, then the trans is locked up. If the differential does not turn the problem is inside the differential.