Question about 1988 Toyota Camry
I need to bleed my clutch cause it has air in it, but don't know where the bleeder is. Does anyone know where it is? It's an 88 Camry 5 spd.
If this is a hydraulic slave cylinder there should be a bleeder screw right on or near it.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Hello,I'm not familiar with the Camry,but usually there is a clutch master cylinder under the hood & a slave cylinder on the transmission.The bleeder should be on the slave cylimder.Open the bleeder a couple of turns & fill the resevoir under the hood & let it gravity feed.BUT,keep an eye on it and don't let it run dry or you will get more air.Tighten the bleeder & have a buddy to pump the clutch and hold it to floor.While it's on floor,open bleeder & repeat this until fluid only comes out.DO NOT release clutch until bleeder is tight or...More Air.Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
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1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.
2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid
conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the
fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid
from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of
3) Raise the vehicle and place it
securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you
chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left
side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as
level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set
parking brake for extra safety...
4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and
push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the
hose into a clear container.
5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid
will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the
release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube.
Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.
6) Close the bleeder valve.
7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress
the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the
clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the
assistant release the pedal.
8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds
each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release
it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble
9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.
The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to
disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.
11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the
system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder
valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.
12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully
for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid
Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the
bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may
be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will
either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master
cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small
mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all
Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try
that really worked great for him.
1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.
Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.
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