Question about 1988 Toyota Camry

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Need to bleed the clutch on 88 camry

I need to bleed my clutch cause it has air in it, but don't know where the bleeder is. Does anyone know where it is? It's an 88 Camry 5 spd.

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  • jackiefig Dec 29, 2008

    It is a hydraulic clutch I forgot to mention it.

  • jackiefig Dec 29, 2008

    I found the bleeder nipple. I had traced it down starting from the middle of the slave cylinder. I noticed it was a hose connected to the slave. It led me to the bleeder nipple which was in the middle of the engine, half way down staring at me. I had to have my mother hold down the clutch pedal while I losened the nut to let out the air and then had her slowly pump the pedal a little. After this the clutch pedal felt tight again not lose and I was able to use the clutch once again and move the stick into gears and drove away. Thanks so much dp1mat and mswindham.




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If this is a hydraulic slave cylinder there should be a bleeder screw right on or near it.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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Hello,I'm not familiar with the Camry,but usually there is a clutch master cylinder under the hood & a slave cylinder on the transmission.The bleeder should be on the slave cylimder.Open the bleeder a couple of turns & fill the resevoir under the hood & let it gravity feed.BUT,keep an eye on it and don't let it run dry or you will get more air.Tighten the bleeder & have a buddy to pump the clutch and hold it to floor.While it's on floor,open bleeder & repeat this until fluid only comes out.DO NOT release clutch until bleeder is tight or...More Air.Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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88 Bronco 2 4x4 2.9L has air in the hydraulic clutch line. I have been pumping the pedal and bleeding it for hours, including cracking the bleed screw with the pedal depressed. nothing seems to work.


Try to find where the air is entering the clutch line. When you bleed the cylinder you cannot drain the reservoir completely when bleeding. If you do then you'll only pump more air into the system.

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After bleeding brakes still have spongy brakes


you still have some air in the lines. go back thru the bleed process again if that doesn't work, get to a power brake bleeder.(amazon about$70) that is a system that puts pressure on top of mc to push fluid thru the system as you open bleed screws. did you know you can adjust brakes by holding down lock button and pumping emergency brake handle. good luck

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How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

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1 Answer

How to bleed hydraulic clutch


Instructions:

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.

Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

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1 Answer

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