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A blown fuse is an indication of circuit overload. Did you replace the fuse with one of the same value or higher? is this the standard current rating for that circuit (usually marked on the fuse cover.
If the engine cranks remove a spark plug tape it to the intake manifold or somewhere where there is clean bare metal (please not near the battery) check for spark if ok reinstall plug if not replace the ECM fuse and relay with alternatives in the fuse box if this gets the pump going replace the ECM fuse and or relay then check for fuel turn on the ignition you should hear the pump run and then shutoff if not replace the pump fuse and relay with alternatives in the fuse box if this gets the pump going replace the pump fuse and or relay
Check for spark to the sparkplug. Try a shot of starting fluid as having gas pumping and having the fuel injectors opening are 2 different things. If you have spark, then the fuel injectors may not be working. Quick diagnosis is to use starting fluid and see if engine tries to run. This indicates problem is not lack of spark but lack of fuel getting into cylinders.
One guy mentioned carb cleaner. I would use starting fluid due to the fact that if it is a fuel problem the car will run for a few seconds on starting fluid. If it won't run on starting fluid then it's an ignition issue. If it runs on the starting fluid then check the inertia switch & fuel pump relay.
Does it have spark at the spark plugs. If it has spark is it getting gas. Try spraying a little starting fluid in it, does it try to start? Then it isn't getting fuel. Is the fuel pump running when the ignition is first turned on? Fuel pump relay, fuse, fuel pump itself. Just telling you some things to check so people can give a better informed answer.
This is about the third time in a week I have seen this same type problem for Explorers, so maybe it is the hott weather causing so many failures.
We had the almost same problem with my uncles explorer and spent way to much changing this and changing that. While it seemed to run fine most of the time, it would only start with starting fluid and could die just running down the road, so he was afraid to drive it anywhere. We did everything you did, plus some.
When I finally pulled the fuel pump relay and replaced it (about $15 part) the problem was solved. Since this isn't something that fails that often, mechanics forget it is there. Plus is is a pain to get to since it is located on the bottom side of the engine compart fuse box. It is normally the light green one (if it is original)
If you hear the fuelpump operate the first 1 or 2 seconds when the key is turned to RUN position, the fuelpump is working. If you do not hear the fuelpump run, check the Inertia switch which should be in the side panel of the rear cargo area. If you have an owners manual check for the Inertia switch location.
To reset the Inertia switch, hold the button on it for 2-3 seconds. You should now hear the pump run. You may also have a fuelpump relay under the hood in one of the Powerboxes. The Powerbox may have a fusible link from the Battery. When the fusible link is OK and the Pump Relay is OK, there is a fuse in the Fuse panel. Then finally the Ignition switch will trip the Pump relay. As power flows through the wire to the fuelpump the Inertia switch can break the power connection.
So you have 5 powerpoints before the fuelpump will work. Fusible link, Pump Relay, Fuse Panel, Ignition Switch,and Inertia switch. These must all work before the fuelpump can run.
if it was me i would make sure its not the fuel pump relay give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair Manual for your SUV wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
Fords have inertia fuel cut off switch. You need to check that first. If you dont have fuel. If you have fuel and no spark you need to check for inj pulse to injector. Make sure no fuses are blown. If no spark and no injector pulse then replace cranksensor.