Question about 2002 Hyundai Accent

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2002 Hyundai Accent lost power

Last week while driving, the battery and brake dash lights came on faintly then the airbag light came on and the car lost power, wouldn't restart and had to be towed. Replaced battery and tested alternator, charge was good. Car worked for a few days but battery and brake dash lights would come on faintly when car was idling or coming to a stop and go back off when car was driving. Also, the windshield wipers were much slower than usual. Radio fine, heat fine, headlights fine. Yesterday after driving for about 15 minutes, the airbag light came on again, then the car started to lose power again while driving up a hill. All of the dashboard lights went completely black and the car barely made it up the hill to my destination. There was a burning smell too. After about 10 minutes, I went back out to move the car, it started up and all the dashboard lights were back on. I'm baffled! Please help!

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  • jodemckee Dec 29, 2008

    The alternator was tested with a voltmeter and was good. Can alternators die out slowly?

  • jodemckee Dec 29, 2008

    belt is tight.

  • jodemckee Dec 29, 2008

    When battery was replaced, the left headlight was out. Replaced bulb but still out. Checked fuse and it was blown so replaced fuse and it worked. I am curious if there are electrical/wiring issues.

  • jodemckee Dec 29, 2008

    Thank you Benimur and other advisors! I posted the comment about wondering if it was an electrical issue before seeing your comment. The car was also idling poorly, sounded like it would stall.

  • jodemckee Dec 29, 2008

    I got the battery from a Hyundai dealer and assumed it was fully charged.

  • jodemckee Dec 29, 2008

    Just curious... after the second time it broke down (after the hill), how did the car restart so quickly if the battery was drained?

  • jodemckee Dec 30, 2008

    Had mechanic look at the car again... the oil dipstick tube is broken at the top and was splashing oil into the alternator causing it to short and run poorly- that's where the burning smell was coming from. This seems uncommon, is it?

  • froggyslippe Jan 11, 2009

    My cars dash lights came on yesterday and the car wouldn't start for a bit, then it did and we drove it a few more times, today we arrived home and it smelled burned so my boyfriend decided to check the oil, when he went to pull the dipstick out the entire casing came with it, there is oil splashed everywhere and I'm guessing that it being in the alternator and all is what caused the problems yesterday with it starting. We're taking it to a mechanic tomorrow to I guess see what they can do about replacing the dipstick casing, but for today he's put a stopper into the hole where the dipstick casing used to be to keep oil from coming out and I'm only driving it to the mechanic tomorrow. I'll see what I can find out.

  • jennellmarie Jan 20, 2009

    Hi!! I read this forum and I am having most of the same issues with Accent. Last night when I went to start my car to leave work, both my battery and Ebrake lights were on faintly and windshield wipers were a lot slower than normal. I replaced the battery and those lights are still faintly on. I am having no trouble starting my car or driving, however I am just nervous as to why these lights are still fainting on, why the windshield wipers are slower and if the car will loose power while driving.



    Please let me know how you handled your situation.

    email me at jennell.arthur@omnicare.com



    Thank you!

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    put new battery in car - car starts and drives for a while - when you stop and switch off engine it wont then restart as if battery is flat - but have put new battery in car

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    vehicle lights went off whille driving ultimatly stoped all together, tested alt & passed put new battery ran fine for a week then did same thing

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, definitely an electrical issue. Some ideas to check, consider and/or explore:

  • IGN switch - check for loose, corroded or heating connections. To test, under normal usage of the vehicle, should feel warm but not overly hot. If so, then possibly loose connection;
  • fuse/relay box - check for loose, corroded or burned terminals, holders, clips and connectors/pins. Use an electrical contact cleaner and spray. It may also be necessary to scrape to remove burnt marks/corrosion;
  • fusible link - the battery would have 2 wires connected to the + terminal. The big wire goes to the starter, the smaller of the two is the electrical systems main wire. This normally goes to the fuse/relay box. Check for frayed ends, loose connection, corroded terminals. In some instances instead of being at the battery's + terminal, it is connected to the end of the big cable down at the starter motor.
  • ALL connectors with big wires - these carry the main +12 either as always ON, ACC or IGN. If a connector has a wire bigger than the others, check them. It may be necessary to disconnect to enable you access to the inside pins/terminals. Scrape them clean.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 29, 2008

    Appreciate the postback/update.

    Your last post "car was also idling poorly, sounded like it would stall" could be explained simply with again an electrical condition. Low power is being supplied to the ignition system and the fuel injectors as well as the high pressure pump. You need a voltmeter or at least a testlight to assist you in determining the cause of your problem(s). A few more ides to consider:


    • even if the alternator is good, but the wiring from the alternator to the battery is faulty, the battery will not charge;

    • if the battery will not charge, then it is delivering very little power to the engine management system;

    • if the engine management system receives little power, it will intermittently fail;

    • if it intermittently fails, the engine would be sluggish and/or eventually stall;

    • try jumping the output terminal of the alternator with a length of electrical wire directly to the + terminal of the battery. Doing this should make the battery charge, the engine's electrical system work good as well as your dashboard;

    • this also would be a test if the alternator is really working.
    Cheers.



  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 29, 2008

    The battery if flat/dead would not be able to start the car. If it were able to, then it was not flat/dead in the first place. Possible explanation, loose connector, corroded battery terminals.

    Let's try doing this by process of elimination:


    • start withe the battery terminals. only 2 of them;

    • check the ground - terminal of the battery and the cable that goes to the engine plus the ground strap from the engine to the body/chassis of the car;

    • check the positive terminal of the battery. one big wire that goes to the starter, another that goes to the fuse/relay box;

    • in cleaning the battery, the fastest/simplest is to pour very hot water on the battery terminals;

    • thereafter make sure terminals are tightened.
    To verify if the alternator is working/charging, use a jump wire from the output of the alternator direct/straight to the + terminal of the battery as earlier posted. This will not only charge the battery, this will also provide sufficient power to the car's electrical & electronic system. It might even make the engine run smoothly.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 29, 2008

    You could of course use an external charge to top the charge of the battery.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 30, 2008

    Have seen engine oil reach the alternator as fumes from the breather and messes up the charging/regulator but liquid oil and from a broken disptick, would be a first.

    In any case, congratulations. It would appear that your concern would be addressed.

    Cheers.


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I had the same problem with the exact same symptoms (brake and battery lights barely turned on). I replaced the battery and everything was fine (but the brake and battery lights still were on). 3 days later battery died again. Recharged battery (remember, it was 3 days old), and again was discharged 2 days later. Took out alternator and tested it at Checkers. result: alternator was generating 11.3 volts, too low. Solution: replaced alternator ($136 at Checkers, plus $60 core. If you leave your old alternator, o core charges apply). Because you tested it with a voltimeter, the only thing you got was that the alternator was generating voltage, but you need to know how much you are getting out of the alternator (has to be around 13.5v) After replacing alternator, no lights were on on dashboard and car is running fine. Replacing alternator is not that complicated. It took me about 15 minutes to remove it and 15-20 minutes to install the new one. Hope this helps!

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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Just the change dipstick and the oil in the car and also check if there is any debris in the car as the broken dipstick which may cause damaged to the engine ,You found the problem it was the oil burn which is causing the loss of power ,and also clean the alternator ..


Good luck....

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

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The alternator can die out slowly you may have a bad wiring harness too but yes it can die out slowly

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • Ronnie Houston Dec 30, 2008

    its very uncommon for that to happen,,,

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To me it sounds like your alternator is short circuiting internally. Then you just start the car the alternator is cold and it works fine. After a while it is getting hot or maybe due to vibration on a bumpy road and it dies (maybe there is short circuit) so you running on battery until it dies. That is why you smell burning. Maybe you need to check the voltage on alternator after some time when you drive a while to see if there is any changes.
Also you need to check the wiring coming from and to alterator to see if there are some damage on them or they are not tight.
Good Luck

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • Grigory Zyryanov Dec 29, 2008

    Because the battery was not drain completely.

    After alternator failed, maybe not failde completely

    Take the belt off the alternator pulley and see if you feel and grinding or tightness when you spin the pulley. If you do, change the alternator.

    The reason your alternator is not spinning at the needed rpms to thus causing the dimming and slowing or stopping at the end eventually.

    Good Luck

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Have You Checked That The Battery Is Not Flat?

It may be an electronic fault. I recommend calling a mechanic to come and check the car out or maybe charge up the battery and see if things change!

--P3NGYJ03

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • Jackson Henney Dec 29, 2008

    Yes, I think the wiring is failing in your car, Taking it to Hyundai dealer and having it repaired its going to cost you. BUT it is the wisest thing to do unless someone else knows a lot about how Hyundai works.

    I think just tell Hyundai to check out the wiring as it IS faulty and it will need replacing and see what they do about it.

    --P3NGYJ03

  • Jackson Henney Dec 29, 2008

    I can not think of anything else if the other suggestion made failed but, you could try calling up a Mobile Repair Service like Lube Mobile and have them check it out for you and have them tell you the problem

    Hope this is your Fixya! --P3NGYJ03

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Hmm its eletrical alright and the only think that can affect all of those is the battery or ecu. If the alternator is good have the battyer check for damaged cells and if thats fine have a diagnostic done.. OR the burning smell,, It could be that a wire burnt causing the insulation to burn off now its grounding on the car causing a short circuit.. yep that would account for the baffeling problem.. You will need to have a professional autoelectrician have a look for this i highly doubth we will be able to guide you through this one or even you spotting the grounded wire on your own.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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  • Rishi Roshan Ali Dec 29, 2008

    that doesnt mean its good... I'm betting on a burnt wire shorthing out somewhere, I'm thinking it would be a sensor wire or one of those for the injectors. I'm sticking with the electrical short.

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Dec 29, 2008

    Thats why I';m saying its not the battery but a burnt electrical wire thats grounding off. It touched a metal part of the body or something connected to it, short circuted the system caused your problems. and the heat from it caused it to stick there. After it cooled it released and functioned normally... That would account for the smell you got the first time as well... U smelt burning rubber or plastic...

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Dec 29, 2008

    YOu dont need hyundai to check it any auto eletrician can do this.

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Dec 30, 2008

    yep very..

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Try either tightening alternator belt and/or replacing

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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  • Jay Glendenning
    Jay Glendenning Dec 29, 2008

    I would have it all tested again .. Yes alternators can "slowly" die out

  • Jay Glendenning
    Jay Glendenning Dec 29, 2008

    Check your ground from the battery to chassis .. make sure it is not corroded

  • Jay Glendenning
    Jay Glendenning Dec 29, 2008

    "Just curious... after the second time it broke down (after the hill),
    how did the car restart so quickly if the battery was drained?"

    Thats why I am questioning ground and or possibly "hot" battery leads.

    Your battery is not draining but a contact is a problem while the car is running .. check your battery connections both @ the battery and the ground and "hot" connection (starter/solenoid)


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It sounds like you have a bad alternator. I would replace it. 

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • John Weathers
    John Weathers Dec 29, 2008

    Yes alternators can die slowly or go out all at once. Sometimes they charge fine when cold but after the engine reaches normal operating temp and alternator heats up you get an open circuit condition in the field winding which causes it to stop charging. Just the way you described the problem points to a bad alternator. The car is running off of battery power and when that is gone you are dead in the water or on the side of the road. There are a lot of electrical consumers working at the same time so It doesn't take long to kill a brand new and fully charged battery especially at night with lights on or if you are using the a/c or heater. 
    A remanufactured Bosch alternator Part # AL 4049X would be the one I'd install. It comes with a 2 year 24000 mile warranty and free towing to the nearest Bosch service center if it ever goes bad. Cost is 127.94 and it retails for 315.08.

  • John Weathers
    John Weathers Dec 31, 2008

    Yes uncommon and very odd. If oil found it way into the alternator you might want to go ahead and replace it. Unless it is disassembled and cleaned properly you will have more problems. Better safe that sorry if your on the road alot.

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SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Accent lost power

try making sure all belts are tight jode

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