Won't start I have a 1996 1500 W/T 2-wheel drive 4.3, I have replaced the ignition module, 2 ground wires and the rotor. It has spark at the coil and the plugs and the fuel pump is turning on and running. It rolls over but won't start.

my truck did that while i was driving on freeway then would backfire i had changed spark plugs and wires and when i did that it made my ignition coil stop working but i just cleaned it off when i dies while driving just throw it in neutral and restart it so you dont have to come to a stop

How long since a tune-up?
Check for applicable trouble codes, if there are any? Your obd 1, you should be able to check for some codes, if the mil still works.
Check primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, key on. Use a test light to check for voltage.
The spark plugs--plug wires--dist cap and rotor all good? Does the rotor turn when you crank it? If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, have helper crank it, do you see a spark jump? I don't know what testing you have done?
With bypass ignition it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking. With the coil itself, key on, should be voltage on both sides, if only one side, the coil is faulty. The ground for the coil should pulse, with engine cranking. I'm sure I've left something out? You need to do some testing.

There is no definitive test for it the ICM, or igniter. If you are positive that the coil is good and it has power at the black/yellow wire, confirm that it is hot at the igniter. Make sure all 4 connecters on the igniter are tight, they should not pull off easily. With the cap off, you should check for spark directly from the coil to ground. Rotors fail too. If everything checks out, and still no spark, the next step is replacing the igniter. Check prices at Honda, sometimes they are the same or cheaper than aftermarket.

Sounds like you replaced alot of parts for nothing.
The pickup coil in the distributor "fires" the module which grounds the coil and the injectors.
Those components would need to be tested. The coil fires the plugs when the ground is removed by the module or the key switch.

1. The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
   1. Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
   2. Ignition coil. you replaced it.
   3. PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
   4. Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
   5. Spark plug wires. you replaced.
2. The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.

start with the basics: an engine with no internal problems (like timing belt broke, or valve train not timed) needs fuel and spark to start.Since your getting fuel up to the fuel rail to feed the injectors, lets assume for the moment that the injectors are working to put gas into the cyllinder (You coud check that by pulling a plug or two out and see if they are wet or smell of gas.) Then check for spark (Hold the metal tip of plug wire 1/4 inch from a metal bolt or ground on the engine. Careful you don't get a shock-you can also buy a spark checker for a few bucks. just put the plug wire on it and ground it with the clip. Then you won't get a shock.) If you see that it is getting spark, then you may need an expert diagnosis for why it won't run. If you do not detect any spark (might want to try more than one plug wire) then you need to diagnose your ignition. If your car has a distributor, take off the cap and check inside for a cracked dist. cap or bad or worn rotor. You may also have a bad ignition coil or ignition module (expensive, but not as expensive as a bad engine control computer. Distributorless ignition? Again, may be a bad coil, coil pack, or ignition module. good luck, i'm about out of suggestions.

What about the distributor?

Hi, Hope I can help you.
I do not know how you have checked for spark, but lets start from the beginning.
Lets start with an ignition systems check.
1. I want you to remove the high voltage coil wire. ( That's the wire in the center of the distributor cap.) Using a good pair of insulated pliers. I want you to hold it about 1/4 inch from a good engine ground. Now you will need a bit of help from a partner. Get them to turn the key and crank the engine. You should see a bright blue and well defined spark. Ok, If you have spark I want you to slowly move the coil wire away from the engine ground. As you do this I want you to pay attention to the coil tower. (The coil tower is where the other end of the coil wire is attached.) What your looking for is arcing and sparking at the coil tower. If this happens then you need to replace the coil with a new one. If this does not happen then your coil is working fine, and we will have to move on.
Note if you do not get spark from the coil wire replace the coil.

2. Ok if you have spark now we have find out if the spark is making it to the spark plugs. How are we going to do this? By checking the rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs.First lets remove the distributor cap. This will allow use to inspected the rotor and the distributor cap. What your looking for is, cracks, carbon tracks and wear at the tip of the rotor. On the distributor ,look inside the cap for cracks, carbon tracks and wear on the terminals. If you find any of this replace the distributor cap and rotor. ( Note if you have any doubt of the condition of the rotor or the cap replace them.) Next lets check your spark plug wires. Lets pull off one of the spark plug wires from the spark plug side. Now inspect the wire connection for a white crusty powder. If you find crust replace your wires. Now you should check all of them the same way, but if even one has corrosion replace them all. You are going to have to inspect the wire its self . Going down the whole length of the wire. Holes cracks burn Marks and other damage. Once again if you find any damage replace them all.
I hope this will help you and good luck to all the read this FixYa

95 JEEP WRANGLER 4 CYL

No spark. I have changed out the distributor cap, rotor, wiring from coil to cap, and coil was replaced. I checked the distibutor by turning ignition key and observing the rotor turn. What else can I check. I did not observe a module.

There are 3 possibilities. 1 the coil. 2 the ignition module. 3 the pick up coil. In my experience the ignition module is the most common cause. It is in the distributor held in with 2 screws. The coil and module can be tested at any parts house. Good Luck