My h3 sometimes does't want to start, Disconnect battery and hook right back and then it starts, next, open passengers door and the interior lights didn't go on, went drivers side they went on, tried to start would not start, disconnect battery, hooked back up and it started, then it read on dashboard, door open, all doors were closed... must be a bad switch??
My H3 didn't start this morning. I noticed something unusual about my truck when I first tried. The alarm had a weak sound when it went off. The fact that it turned over but didn't start made me believe it was not the battery. I was trying to call the mechanic and a wrecker to get my H3 fixed. However, before that I got the wrecker out there, I went to Autozone. He told me it sounded like the battery and cold weather kills the battery. So 3 hours have passed and temperatures warmed up to a cool 56 degrees. I was going to put jumper cables but out of curiousity, I said well let me crank it and see if it was cold weather. Sure enough, it cranked right up.
Either way, I am going to take it to Autozone and have the battery checked. I can't miss another day of work due to an old battery.
My 2006 H3 60k miler is doing the same thing. Started about a year ago and has become more frequent over time (and maybe miles). Like others, I have tried to diagnois the problem and have found only one common denominator - do nothing but wait 20 minutes and the vehicle will start as normal. I checked with another local owner and his 2006 H3 is doing likewise - only difference is that he has less miles and less frequent start failues. My internet search has turned up phantom causes of sticking valves, ignition switch and seat movement. Sure hope to find the cause as I truely love the H3.
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This model Park Avenue has boo coo interior lights...they are triggered at both front doors, and limited with the back doors...Each door has a contact accentuator switch ...locate each one, should be on front side of door they make contact with the interior door trim...spray each one with PB Blaster and wipe way excess...this will assure they are not stuck...A radio on/off sometimes means a bad alternator or loose serpentine belt, be sure to have your system checked for free at your nearby auto parts store so you don't get stranded...Hope this helps.
I think this may be the "closer" motor continuously trying to gain a positive latch--and unable to do so. This could be from a damaged latch switch.
The sliding door has three motors, a slide motor, a release (or unlatch) motor, and a closer (or latching) motor. The open door light and interior lights coming on seem to indicate that the "closed and latched" switch is sometimes open-- allowing the closer motor to continue to operate.
Another possibility is that the dent has changed the geometry of the door mechanism especially the draw of the pull cable. The slide motor has a sensor that pulses when it runs. The door management controller counts the number of pulses of the slide motor sensor to determine when the door is fully closed and then stops the slide motor. At that point, the closer motor operates to latch the door. If the cable geometry has changed, the door controller may be shutting off the slide motor prematurely and the closer motor cannot complete the latch.
There are a couple of things to check. First, check the dimmer control for the dash lights. This actually has two reasons for being there. The first controls the dim and brightness of the dash lights themselves. The second and less known is to activate the interior lights manually. Locate the the dimmer function and turn it all the way one direction then halfway back, this should ensure it is not bypassing the timer and door activations. Next, go through and check all of the door activation switches. These are easy to find in the door jams and simple to deactivate and test. You can remove them with a small open cresent wrench in most cases and there is typically 1 wire attached to them. You'll need some string and electrical tape. Disconnect the wire from the activator, attach a piece of string to it and cover the exposed end up by wrapping in in electrical tape to prevent it from grounding. Stick the wire back through the whole the activator was screwed into. You'll want to disconnect the battery before you start doing this test to avoid shocking yourself or grounding the wire inadvertently. Reconnect the battery, all interior lights should be off at this time. Close the doors then reconnect the battery. Make sure you have disabled any alarms you have installed. The interior lights should be off, if they are not there is a short in your electrical system or light control switch assuming there are no switches, like map light switches, in the on position.
Well if lights are not staying on then you have a draw of power somewhere. Easy way to find out is volt meter. You take off negative cable and put one end of meter to battery post and other to wire dont let the wire touch post or anyother metal of vehicle. Then go through your fuse box and pull fuse's one at a time until you see voltage on meter drop. Meter should should a (-)negative voltage at start and get smaller when right fuse is pulled take notes and pull all one at a time and replace back in orginal spot. If you find one that really lowers the negative voltage draw on meter good chance you found where problem is. Id start by checking all interior lights first, including glovebox.
is the door ajar light on sometimes also when driving? I had a similar problem with the light staying on. I determined that it was the passenger front door latch sticking. I opened the door, then took a screwdriver to push the latch shut on the door jamb. (Make the truck think the door is shut even though it is open). Then lubricate that jamb and pull the handle open to open the door. Keep doing this (closing with screwdriver and opening with handle) until the latch works freely. This took care of my light and door ajar problem.
please rate if this helps.
Section 01-05: Trim, Interior
1995 Thunderbird, Cougar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
The interior trim component Removal and Installation procedures generally apply to all models. If some of the steps do not apply to the particular models being serviced, proceed to the next step.
Trim Panels, Door
Removal and Installation
CAUTION: Do not pry front door trim panel (23942). Prying on front door trim panel will break the hook retainers.
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301) .
Carefully pull front door trim panel finish panel (23712) away from front door trim panel .
Front Door Trim Panel Finish Panel
Outside Rear View Mirror Control
Door Lock Switch
Screw (5 Req'd)
Window Regulator Control Switch
Front Door Trim Panel
Disconnect wires from front door lock switches (14017), outside rear view mirror controls (17B676) and window regulator control switches (14529) , if equipped; remove front door trim panel finish panel.
Remove front door trim panel retaining screw through front door trim panel finish panel opening.
Trim Panels, Door
Front Door Trim Panel
Nut (2 Req'd Each Side)
Screw (2 Req'd Each Side)
Remove interior lamp lens cover.
Remove screw through interior lamp opening.
Slide front door trim panel upward to disengage hooks.
Rotate top of front door trim panel away from front door (20125) , and lift bottom hooks from front door.
the body controller is at fault it may need the software update from the dealer... one thing you can do is disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes then when you reconnect it... the fob will work again...
One of your door switches is probably faulty or sticking. They look like little buttons/plungers sticking out from door pillar at handle end,or in door jamb area on hinge end. You'll see where the door closes on them. Usually you can get it to act up by pushing it in & out while door open, and see if door ajar stops. When you try a door & it continues to say door ajar, with button pushed in, you found the culprit, just make sure you try it on them all. You will either have a screw or 2 holding it, or probably round black plastic base, just pry it out, and be careful to pull straight out the hole, so wires don't touch metal when coming out.