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First make sure you can turn engine over with a socket and that it is not seized. Second if engine checks out fine does the starter just click with the ignition key? If it does perform what is called a voltage drop test on the starter cables. Connect a volt meter on each end of the cable you are testing you should read no more that a half a volt drop when loading the circuit. If cables check out fine pull the starter and have it bench tested at an auto parts store. But be carefull bench testing can show a starter is ok with out putting a load on it, if it still shows good on the bench you still may need to replace it. If you don't get a click with the key check for 12 volts at the starter connector unplugged, if no trace starter wire noting color code back through the starter safety switch back to the ignition switch.
I HAVE A 7.3 DEISEL AND I DONT KNOW IF THE 6.0 HAS ONE OR NOT BUT MY CRANK SHAFT SENSOR WENT BAD AND THE TRUCK WOULD NOT START( JUST TURN OVER ) DEALER PUT NEW CRANK SHAFT SENSOR ON MINE AND FIXED THE PROBLEM...HOPE THIS HELPS...
I have this problem right now also. Here is the deal as I see it. I have a 97 Saturn SC2 automatic (nuuf said!). Against my intuition I let the guy at Autozone talk me into a battery, though I suspected the solinoid or the starter motor itself. Put in the new batt and nothing but a single loud click. I took the new battery back and used the refund money to get a new starter. I put it in and still just a loud click. I have cleaned the terminals and torqued the cable at the batt and starter.Because the solinoid clicks when I turn the key I am asuming (for now) that the ignition switch, neutral saftey switch and the "Startguard" (the little electric key you have to put in for your car to start) is good. In my knowlege, it has to be the main battery cable that runs from the battery to the starter. Next I'm gonna go out there and turn my key to the on position and connect a jumper cable from the battery directly to the starter solinoids high current side to confirm or bust my suspicion of the bad positive (red) battery cable. I will let you know how it goes.
your starter is bad.... the two contacts inside the solinoid are worn out only way to fix is replace the unit as a whole bet ya you get click click click then my start.. bet my life on this one been fixin toyotas for 20+ years
JU JU Fruit. Your battery is low. You cannot get enough voltage from the system through the ign switch to pull the solinoid in. You have enough voltage to crank the starter, but I am sure this is marginal as well. The starter cranking is all about amps, the solinoid pulling in is more about voltage. Put a volt meter on your battery and I bet it reads less than 12.6 - what a fully charged battery should read.
On the F250, clicking solinoid is also due to low battery voltage. Pull both batteries and have them fully charge and checked. Stores like advance auto parts will dothis for you for free. Clean all of the terminals and reinstall. If batteries are OK, have thew charging system checked also. Again Advance will check it for you