This happend to me in my 82 elcamino get a light tester and go to the starter and fallow each wire 1 by 1 and make sure you have power in my car the wires ended up at the firewall driver side hope this helped you
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Have you checked applicable fuses for everything except head lamps? The headlamps themselves don't use a fuse. Check the battery junction block under the hood, one of your positive battery cables should go to junction block. If several fusible links check them. My info shows red wire carries battery voltage to head lamp switch for headlamps. The headlamp switch has two voltage circuits, mainly, one for the head lamps, for the other lamps that the switch controls, those smaller lamps are fuse protected.
The picture is too dark. Usually the power windows, all of them, are protected by a 25 or 30 amp circuit breaker. It is usually found in the instrument panel fuse block, under the dash on the driver's side. The circuit breaker is a matchbook size "fuse", usually silver colored. A circuit breaker automatically resets if it gets tripped by like a short.
If you pull off the master switch, the driver's side switch, you should have one hot wire with key on. The power wire and the ground for the windows are both in the driver's master switch. This is where you begin testing the power windows if none are working. Check for a hot wire, and check the ground wire- use a multi-meter.
The BCM receives power from the 10A IPC/BFC ACC FUSE J and 10A BFC BATT FUSE F in the left I/P fuse block, 10A A/C BFC FUSE 37 in the underhood fuse block, and 10A CRUISE FUSE 8 and 10A INT LPS FUSE A in the right I/P fuse block
The good news is that all of these problems stem from the same source: the 15A PARK LPS fuse in the underhood wiring harness junction block. When you set the turn/headlamp/wiper switch to PARK, the park lamp relay in the junction block closes and power is applied to the front marker lamps and the park filament of the front park/turn lamps as well as the tail filaments of the rear tail/stop lamps.
As for the instrument lights, that same PARK LPS fuse applies power to the same turn/headlamp/wiper switch that, when set to PARK or HEAD applies power to the variable panel dimmer switch which lets you set the illumination level. Switch output is applied to the lamp dimmer module and module output passes through the 10A INST LAMPS fuse in the right I/P wiring harness junction block to the instrument lamps
Check your ground cable. It should go to the motor and two the chassi (bolted to a fender).
Look for fuseable links. They always seem to move. They are about a 10 gauge sized wire with a plastic collor on it near the end. There can be some coming off the battery cable at the starter, on a junction block mounted on the firewall (If I remember right your 92 will have a cover on the passenger side firewall and I think they are under that) or near the battery.
Don't just look at the links (the fuse is actually the wire. It melts away when there is a circuit problem), tug a bit on them. They will corrode on the inside of the plastic collor and the wire may not be melted away but the connection inside can be bad.
If a link is bad, DO NOT REPLACE WITH A REGULAR FUSE. I seen people do that and a fuse, like found in the interior fuse panel, creates a resistance. You don't want to turn a 10 gauge wire into a small wire like found in a fuse. Napa auto parts has fuseable link wire. A but splicer and a ring splice would also be needed.
If the links are good then you need to check the bulk head connector on the drivers side firewall. The battery power will go through that inside the vehicle.
i dont know where you looked and got your misinformation from. the fuse for a 2005 malibu brake lights is a 15 amp fuse located under the hood in the fuse block. the fuse block is located near the battery.
If you will look at the under hood fuse block towards the rear there is a large red wire with an eyelet on it. It should be taped to the harness. You will need to hook it to the hot post under the lower cover on the fuse block.Remove the fender beace from under the hood and remove the cover. At the front of the fuse block there are 2 posts. Connect the wire to the hot post with a nut usually a metric 8X1.25 thread. Good Luck
check on the starter there should be big lead bolted on it now with that big lead there should be a smaller lead bolted with it that lead supplys power to the cab that smaller wire has a fuseable link in it now pull hard on wire to see if it has a break in it the tou can just join the wire to get you going but you need to replace the fuseable link because if you ever have another short it wil burn cab wiring if this didnt help let me know been a while since i work on one