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Re: 2001 toyota camry front rotors
After removal of calipers and anchors..should slide off. Do the rotors have some sort of screw(phillips/Torx) in the front of them bolting them to the hub?? May need impact driver to remove screws. Also could be rusted on....
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you want all steps and tools needed?
the FSM covers this. ever seen one, the official factor service manual that all cars have.
or alldata.com log in and read.?
front up on jackstands, no jacks.
caliper off and tied up.
big nut off
gab hub with slide hammer, bam, hub off
new hub with new bearing from store
reverse above, minus slam hammer.
set bolt to factory torque or die.
alladata.com, read all steps then ask questions.
Hello wavehogflame: My name is Roger and I will help you. The answer to your question is yes. To change the struts you will need special equipment.Also will need front end alignment as well. The coil spring on the strut is compressed pressure from roughly 600 lbs.psi. to upward of 900lbs.psi. This will cause great bodily harm or death. Please take to some one who is qualified and has the proper tools for the job. Should you need further help please just ask. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
No special tools needed, just a 17mm, 21mm. I do not recommend people without training do their own brakes, it is too dangerous to risk peoples lives just to save a few bucks. Also, any pads other than Toyota's will make noise and squeal, so if noise will bother you, use Toyota pads and resurface the rotors.
If you have 6 bolts going around the center (manual lock in/lock out) hub, you are going to be there a while. The center hub needs to come off, and ALL of the internal wheel bearings need to come out. The whole locking hub must be removed in order get the rotor off. This is NOT an easy job, and you need a special tool to loosen/tightem the wheel bearings. Figure 2 hrs per side if you have all of the proper tools & skill level.
LOL!! Ya they are a pain in the a$$ if it's the year car I am thinking of. Are there 3 "threaded screw holes" near the wheel stud holes? If there is you need a special tool called a slide hammer to get the rotors off. You can get one of these on loan from Autozone for example. And may the force be with you.
If there is not, then you should jump up and down and be glad. Get some rust penetrant and a big hammer, like a 2 or 3 pound hammer. Put all lug nuts on all of the wheel studs (not tight just on a few turns with your fingers) to protect the threads when you are wacking at the rotor with the hammer. This will also keep the rotor from falling on you (they are pretty heavy). Spray the rust pentrant through the wheel stud holes and around the middle where the rotor meets the wheel hub and let it soak for about 5 minutes. Now firmly start wacking the rotor being careful not to hit the actual flat surface of the rotor but the very edge as well as the middle near the wheel studs.
A little cursing at it will improve your chances while you are hitting it. Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt!!
it seems like the caliber is not completley seated on the rotor or has vibrated loose causeing them to move up.
i would take you vehicle back to who done your brake and have them look at them again and see what they are hanging like that. if you get into an accident because of them would not be good.